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Because of the different motions, a belt sander could cause a deeper "line" where the edge of the belt hits the wood, since you can only go back and forth with it, certainly not optimal. With an orbital sander you would be moving it very quickly, in different directions and because of the way the pad moves as well, you would not be "eating" into the wood as ...


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I've used the steel wool + vinegar method before*. It's essentially a stain so really only affects the surface layer. It shouldn't have any meaningful affect on the strength of the piece of wood. Splitting and warping is related to moisture and drying so wouldn't really be affecting by weathering stain. After you weather it, note that most any additional ...


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I have made a few exterior window boxes and none lasted long with the wood in contact with the soil. I would make the boxes of whatever wood and finish matches yor kitchen. I would seal the inside with an exterior grade urethane. The idea is to protect the wood from the dampness and occasional water spill. I have had the best long term results by using a ...


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Wood won't clog sandpaper that fast, so it has to be the finish, dirt/soil or a combination of both. Paint thinner or mineral spirits usually work well to get dirt and grease off of wood, and wont harm most finishes you want to put overtop. 60 grit on a table top is a very coarse grit, and I would pretty much never use a grit that coarse on an already ...


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Mineral spirits won't work. You need something stronger like acetone. If you have ceramic tiles they won't be harmed.


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If you like the current look of the wood, then you should not stain it, as any stain will alter the color. 2 or 3 coats of clear polyurethane will highlight the look of the wood without altering the color. I suggest a clear, satin finish, as glossy would make your table look shiny. Such as:


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Both cedar and redwood last for many years, redwood longer, soap scrum , chlorine and many other chemicals really are not a problem. I have replaced septic tanks that were both Cedar and redwood that were 40 to 80 years old with redwood being the longer lasting so I doubt there would be a problem unless there is a fungus or mold growing on it. Today cedar is ...


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Nothing disastrous will happen if you don't finish your desk top. I see lots of old unfinished work bench tops and shelves at work, they are not pretty like old furniture but they're still working fine. It will be harder to keep clean - the finish on wood keeps dirt, scuffs, marks from sinking into the wood and makes them easier to wipe up. Finishes ...


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I would NEVER use a belt sander for finish work especially with polyurethane. Can it be done , not with 220 grit and possibly not even with 400 grit. Belt Sanders rip a line with each grain of the paper trying to blend a rough wood to prepare for finish is tough enough but I would say just hand sand the poly before using a belt sander or you will be starting ...


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The stain IS uneven and that is because the underlying softwood was stained using dark pigmented stains made to be almost a paint in pigment particle size and intensity. They may have even thinned out some oil based paint to do this job. In some areas they really gobbed it on to hide something underneath the stain. Just like deck stains come in clear grades ...


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In my opinion, I would put the wall back as it was. Part of the whole charm of the barn look is the roughness, textures, cracks etc., the things that sounds like you want to fix. Even if you could get an "upscale" barn look by doing what the questions surround, would severely change the look you have now. Gluing cracks will change the color of the wood, it ...


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My opinion is that you should finish and treat before the installation of your fence, because before installation you can finish according to your needs, and you don't risk disturbance after installation.


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Even if you treat before install and get all sides, later down you will have to just treat the visible portion, unless you plan to pull the fence down and retreat then put back up....in my opinion, too much work.


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According to your link, they sell this strictly at Lowes in Canada. I'm assuming you're not Canadian as you're using the .com instead of the .ca link for Lowes: https://www.lowes.ca/exterior-stain/olympic-378-l-wood-protector-toner-stain-and-sealant_g1346222.html?searchTerm=Olympic-Wood-Protector-Honey-Gold-Toner-Exterior In terms of mixing, don't. You'll ...


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I finally got round to experimenting. The following had no effect at all even combined with elbow grease: white spirit (mineral spirits) petrol (zippo fuel) WD40 These - with rubbing - removed the cured oil. In subjective order of increasing effectiveness: methylated spirits 100% acetone cellulose thinners It is of course possible that there was a ...


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Two things damage Tung oil. Air and moisture. And usually, you get it in polyethylene containers which you squeeze to remove all but the last bit of air in the neck when you put the lid on and then pour into a smaller marked polyethylene bottle when the empty space is too large to remove the air. Another technique is to drop marbles in as the fluid level ...


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If it's not set up in the can, it's probably fine, but making a small test is always a good idea with old finish, just to make sure it cures properly.


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Can't tell what sort of varnish, if any, is on there, but it looks like it's come off in the worn places you care about anyway. Without a complete refinish job, you can try touching up much of the damage you picture with a swab that's been dipped in a dark oak (or red oak) stain. Just put a little stain in the places the finish is gone, wait 20 min. and wipe ...


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There are many finishes that work, but many wear and are rotted over time by the contact with the wet soil and roots. If you use any cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) as a finish it'll do that. It's waterproof, strong and cheap. I use it to finish my pistol grips. The ones I have on my personal carry pistol I have had for 4 years, never refinished since the ...


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