14

While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse. My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.


14

The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable. Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap. EDIT To be able to work in the scrap of ...


12

Do not try to use caulk between all the boards. It will look like crap and on top of that, like you already indicated, it will be hard to put in there in the first place. The proper approach to this is to install vertical strips of wood over the cracks from the outside. You can choose to use something like 1x2 inch cedar strips. Or if your shed looks like ...


9

Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there: I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged ...


5

Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood. This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.


5

I would use a wood patch called a dutchman. If your router has a plunge feature, make a small template to aid in cutting in a dutchman. The article the link refers to does it differently than I do, since it cuts out the damage and the repair piece with the router using one template and two different guides. Where I use one guide only to cut the bad spot out,...


4

Best option - drill hole out to 3/4", cover a 3/4" wooden dowel with wood glue, stuff it in the hole, wait for glue to dry, cut it off flush, drill new hole. Wood filler is not a quality repair you should expect to last. You might have enough room to drill your small hole beyond the current hole.


4

Depends on size. For significant blems, I'd try wood putty, handling it as if it were joint compound. If that didn't work, I might just give up and actually use joint compound... However, remember that for small nichs and scratches paint itself can fill small irregularities, especially if you scuff-sand between coats or otherwise actively level the surface.


4

I'd put in a piece of matched wood, then use an appropriate filler to smooth the junction between the patch and the frame. If it's painted, you can get away with other materials.


4

If your doorframes are MDF any patching is going to be visible to some degree. I would try filling it (with slight overfill) with wood putty and sanding it as smooth as you can using finer grit (220) for the finish. It all depends how particular you are - it's very difficult to get a perfect mend on this. The only other option is replacing that side of the ...


3

First, thank you for adding the pictures. It helps a lot. My best suggestion would be to remove the existing ~1.5" sill. (Properly speaking, it's a stool, with an apron below.) Put a new 4" or so one on. You'd probably have to remove the apron temporarily, as the thickness of the new stool might or might not be exactly the same as the old. Use long ...


3

For sure wood filler isn't going to work... if the previous suggestion (which is quite good) won't work for you, for whatever reason, perhaps something like Bondo would. You could put the new caster stems into small baggies, or finges cut from rubber gloves to seal them off from the epoxy. I've done this in very similar situations and it works fine to ...


3

Assuming this is an interior door, I'd just scribe the top of the door parallel with the top of the jamb and plane it to the line. It actually looks a tad out of square and a bit tight in the jamb.


3

For the best match, cut a thin piece of the same MDF material to fit, and glue it into place with wood glue. MDF is very easy to work with so this would be relatively easy. If the fit is good enough, the glue will fill any of the cracks, or fill them in afterwards with a mixture of wood glue and MDF dust. Keep glue off the surface as it will affect the ...


3

The flash point of a material is the temperature above which it will give off vapors that can ignite. It's NOT the temperature at which the fumes or the material will self-ignite. As a point of reference, you likely handle gasoline regularly and its flash point is -45F! Just ensure that there are no ignition sources while you are using the product and have ...


2

Google "bowtie inlay" for details on what's possible. You can do the work either with chisels or a router (or both). And, for what it's worth, bowtie isn't the only shape out there... it's just reasonably charming and has straight lines that make it more manageable for chisel work. (Sharp chisels are always good, but particularly good in this instance.) ...


2

If you don't mind not having the patch resemble the surrounding wood species; for a quick long lasting wood filler I've always used automotive body filler (Bondo). It is a two part product and once the hardener is mixed with the filler you have finite time to use it (depending on the amount of hardener used). Once cured it can be shaped with basic wood ...


2

Traditional mortice door knobs were attached with grub screws to tapped holes in the spindles, so the force of pulling acted on the knob on the other side of the door, not the small screws holding the rose on. If you can replace with this sort of knob.


2

There is no good filler for every purpose all wood and all fillers take stain differently. When they say "sands and stains like wood" they are misleading you. Different sections of the same tree stain differently. That's why quarter sawn lumber is desirable. You need to try a swatch in a descret location. Or better on a sample. Finding something to match ...


2

If you really want the "best" way, it's going to be to remove the existing door casing and replace it with a smooth 1-by board. Like a 1x8 or 1x6 ripped to the proper width. That would remove the unnecessary door stop trim and give you a nice, smooth opening. If that sounds like too much work (and it is quite a bit of work), then filling the old holes and ...


2

I had something similar done on two different floors (solid wood herringbone parquet and more recently on an engineered wood floor). I assume the same trick will work for laminate flooring (given that it's pretty similar to my engineered wood example). The trick was to use low expansion polyurethane foam to fill in the voids underneath the flooring. The ...


2

Here are two that come to mind: Drill the tunnel out to a larger, perfectly round shape. Glue a piece of wood dowel into the hole as a plug. It's not necessary to completely fill the hollowed space -- it would be good enough to make the plug as little as 1/4 inch thick. Obtain or create some sawdust with a color similar to this wood. Mix it with epoxy, ...


2

If you these are due to Carpenter Bees, and I think they are, there are bee larvae inside the hole that you should deal with before sealing it. Otherwise they will hatch and drill their way out. You can buy a insecticidal dust or a foaming "spray" that will travel around the corners and get to the larvae. You can find treatments from online DIY ...


2

Are those sliding doors or regular hinged doors? The "friend" actually did a fairly good job of installing the flooring. There usually has to be a gap between the wall and flooring because the flooring will expand and contract if it's a floating floor. The gap is usually covered by molding fastened to the wall, not the floor. You can find different ...


1

The piece under the slider sill appears to be face nailed facia. You try removing this piece of wood, maybe they did water proof properly and only this piece of facia is rotting. If it is only the facia rotting then you could replace it and then to seal the gap, depending on the size, use a piece of foam backer rod and some exterior grade paintable ...


1

Drill though and use sex bolts or machine screws and internally threaded tube to connect the two door knobs


1

This isn't common on an open wall, more for shadow boxes and such. However, you could remove that piece of molding and cut another piece with a 45° angle where it meets the corner. Then cut a small piece about 1ft. long with 45° angles on both ends. Then cut yourself a dead end on the left side. You will probably have to cope the excess wood at the corners ...


1

While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on Add more trim Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes ...


1

If the nail is holding this thin piece in place I would use wood glue over filler, filler may not hold the split together where wood glue would.


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