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25

The "best way" is to replace all the damaged wire. Either completely (from where it starts and ends now) or by adding two junction boxes (which must remain accessible) where you can join the undamaged parts of the wire to new undamaged wire between the two junction boxes. If you can reach one end with new wire, you may only need one new junction ...


15

An Edison bulb has a metal "tip" that is totally inaccessible once you start screwing it in. It does not make contact with the socket until it's screwed all the way in. It also has an outer metal threaded screw base, which is easily touched while screwing it in. It makes contact with the sockets "shell" immediately and continuously ...


13

All splices (except for the Tyco splice mentioned in kg333's answer) must be made inside junction boxes. The whole junction box cover must remain accessible forever without needing tools to disassemble the building in any way (but unlike a subpanel it does not require 'working space maintained 24x7). The undamaged cable must enter the junction box via a ...


11

OK, I'm sure it's clear to you that the white should be connected to the white, and it should be the neutral. But just switching the wires really is an incomplete solution, you know they did something wrong, but how wrong? At very least you need a tester to verify that the black is the hot and it is the switched wire. This can simply be done with a no-...


10

Presuming the cable in your wall is non-metallic (NM), you can use an in-wall rated NM splice. Here's a datasheet of such a splice as an example (not a recommendation of this product in particular) Keep in mind that such a device has to be rated for in-wall use, appropriately sized for the cable you use it on, and has to be allowed by local code: you can't ...


3

This points out the need for understanding the basics of wiring. The light fixture must have a neutral from the house connected to the neutral on the fixture, and will have a switched hot from the switch box connected to the hot connection of the fixture. The neutral from the house wiring will always be white. If the fixture has wire leads, the fixture ...


3

Yes, if you do it right. This is an MWBC, Multi Wire Branch Circuit. The keys are: 240V double-breaker (or technically handle-tie is OK, but double-breaker is easier and you better already have that for a dryer anyway). Feed must include hot/hot/neutral/ground. This might get tricky. A proper modern 30A dryer connection will have all 4 wires (or 3 + metal ...


2

Apply 310.15(B)(7) to your entire service NEC 310.15(B)(7)says that you take your entire (planned) service size - 200A - and multiply it by .83 (83%) giving 166A for you. You never need to use wires larger than that anywhere that's served by that service. So any feeder - even if it's 200A feeder - only needs to be 166A not 200A. So that calculates out to 4/...


2

Not in this case, because you can't put lights or outlets on a 30A circuit. Note that also, you can't have receptacles on a circuit where more than 50% of ampacity is needed for hardwired loads. So it could happen if, say, the numbers worked out (20A circuit, 240V/7A mini-split, then yeah, you could use both legs for 120V stuff). Honestly, the 10/3 cable ...


2

You can massage it with your fingers to straighten it out, and make sure when you nail or clamp it that it is flat and not on edge. As long as it is not cut or chafed or bent sharply it should be fine. Although it suggests something happened at the factory or in storage, it is still correctly insulated. To be certain you could call the manufacturer and ask ...


1

Thanks for all your help folks. With a little help from a multimeter I was able to confirm that the smaller brown was indeed switched-live, and the two with the sleeves indeed neutral and live. I've just terminated the live and wired the switched-live and neutral to my new fitting. I guess the intention with the live is, as some people have suggested, for ...


1

If the washing machine caused high-enough current load to cause the master circuit breaker to toggle off, which takes 50 or more amperes, you'd certainly see a bright flash at the plug when plugging in the washer, and the tip of the plug would look burned or melted. More likely, the master circuit breaker is also a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), ...


1

The bare copper wires are your ground wires. They don't need to be connected to the box because it's non metal. The grounds are all crimped together in the box as they should be. Once you replace the broken switch, the ground wire in the box should be attached to the green screw on the switch. At the fixture location, the bare copper ground needs to be ...


1

You can run along the side for parallel as you have done, Going down the “face” of the rafter is ok. Make sure to stay away from the roof side, you don’t want any future roofing nails punching through the cable.


1

First, apologies for leaving this question for so long and thank you for your comments. In the end, I used flexible PVC conduit. I could have used rigid conduit, which was less expensive, but decided against it as there were too many elbows to glue (and not all the turns were 90 degrees). With the flexible conduit, there was only one junction to glue in the ...


1

The key point in your question is that it happens when the light is off. In this case, the alternating current in the live wire produces an alternativing magnetic filed around the wire which induces current in the floating wire. This induced current is also 50hz that's why you can see it when your multimeter is in the AC mode. The reason this voltage goes ...


1

AFCI/GFCI Breaker Diagnostics Depending on the brand and model of AFCI or GFCI breaker you installed, the breaker itself may be able to help diagnose the problem. For instance, Square D QO Combination Arc Fault (CAFI) breakers have what they call Time Saver Diagnostics. For more information see the Time Saver Diagnostics handout. Below is a summary of the ...


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