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6

It looks like the caulk there is old and cracked. Scrape it all out so you have a good surface to work with and use a premium acrylic caulk. DAP extreme stretch or 230 would be good choices if you dont want to work with silicone. If the gaps are larger than 1/4" you should use window expanding foam or backer rod first to fill the gap before caulking. ...


5

Looks like caulk was applied once before and has cracked due to movement. You'll want to scrape that all away and apply new caulk. Silicone would work, but it's not paintable, so consider that.


3

That "shield" around the window is itself a Code violation, and also violates your utility's meter placement rules Your problem is that while the mere presence of a window underneath metering equipment is not a Code violation, the half-round "shield" around the window infringes on the NEC 110.26(A) clearances, which have to be maintained ...


3

Working space is: The width of the equipment but at least 30" 78" high 36" deep for these voltages This only applies to things that need to be read or that have controls. If it's merely a junction box, it simply needs to be accessible without removing parts of the building. When they initially installed this unit, they added 2 meters, a ...


2

I haven't worked on vintage metal casement windows but have some experience restoring vintage wood double hung windows. First, don't replace the entire window unit, I'm sure this window can be repaired for much less. Did you contact a company that sells new replacement windows? I would avoid those companies and try to find a company that can re-glaze the ...


2

On the windows I have installed they have a clear plastic or white wiper that seals to the frame, when these windows get older that plastic seal fails then the outside air can make it through the gap. You may need to remove the slider and look on some windows I have seen several of these, wiper type weather seals. The seals pull out to a side if they don’t ...


2

(That window type is called jalousie or louver windows, by the way.) If you search for "jalousie window seal", you'll get some products that come in a roll and assist in sealing the gap between each window. That should help with the airtightness, though not as much as a real window would. You could also use an "interior storm window"/&...


1

The points already made in the above answers are accurate and should be considered. However, I think it's always wise to remove sources of moisture away from the foundation of a house for the same reason it's wise to channel rain water away from the foundation. Moisture on siding of any type and around a foundation can only cause problems.


1

Sure, snow insulates if it's air tight. Seems like plenty of space between the snow and window for fierce windchill to set in. Assuming the window is at least double-pane and doing it's job with argon gas then there is not much benefit to having the snow there. Consider this, the snow will melt and re-freeze several times throughout the season so you're ...


1

You have my sympathy, that sounds like a difficult apartment to live in. The movies I see only show the liveable Californian apartments, a pity there are less well built ones. No big solution from me I regret. If you decide to use cardboard again, try fixing permanent strips at the left and right edge of the window. This should hold the big piece in place, ...


1

The issue was with insufficient prep/paint of the sash which allowed water and sun to warp the sash trim such that water could leak between the glass unit and the sash frame. I have had some luck removing and replacing the sealant between the glass unit and the sash frame and then repainting the sash.


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