New answers tagged

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When you strip the hot water tap, you'll most likely find the valve (rubber washer) has come adrift, or is breaking up inside. Simple solution, if it's a tap that screws to open/close, is to replace that washer.


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Option A: Some sort of debris (since you indicate a problem of "the last few weeks", not "always been this way") clogging up the section of pipe from where it splits off the pipes that work normally, or (more likely) the valve itself. If you shut off the supply, unhook the hose to the hot supply, and run it into a bucket, you can see if ...


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Your "basin" need not be sold as a "basin" - the good old fashioned, fits very easily through limited access, pile of bricks or blocks that you use to line a hole that you dig (of whatever size you like, since you assemble the wall in place) will solve your diameter problem. The other obvious solution would be a different pump with an ...


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That's a "PUSHON" toilet supply valve like this: https://accortechnology.com/pushon-r-series-sink-lavatory-supply-kit-1-2-valve-x-1-2-ips-nut If you go to their install video here: https://youtu.be/5DRQZuLR9y4 and skip to about 2:55 you'll see that to shut the valve off you pull on the knob and to turn it back on you push the knob back in.


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If you want to ad a valve and/or a secondary connection for a bidet then you will need to shut the water supply off to that pipe. The pipe is PVC, you can use a glue on valve or a push to connect valve. It may be a push to connect fitting and if so removable without cutting the pipe, if not you need to cut it off just below it to leave as much pipe above the ...


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Change the anode rod in water heater to an aluminum one. Your comment re this above is not clear.


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I think you've overstated this. Many communities in rural areas live off rain water and enjoy good quality and clean water (without complaint). It's important to treat it (as your caveat makes clear) with UV for fecal contamination but I'm far from convinced that your statements around drinking water with regards to metal ion, nitrates and dust particles is ...


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It occurs to me that you could take a page from rainwater collection systems. Persons wanting to use rainwater from the roof deal with issues similar to yours. . Leaves wash off the roof. Dirt can be in the water. https://www.dgsapps.dgs.ca.gov/DSA/SustainableSchools/sustainabledesign/water/rainwatercatchmentsystems.html Adapting this to your fountain: ...


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Depending on the nature of the "fountain" - if it does not have small jets, then run larger pipe to it. If the output of your pump is all being driven through that tiny hose outlet, (which is my reading of what you wrote) there'a design flaw here someplace. Otherwise, filters. You want a great deal of filter area so that it will continue to flow ...


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It should be a simple task to add a shutoff valve to the existing line. You probably have 1/4" copper tubing or polyethylene tubing. There are shutoff valves available for either type and they don't require soldering. Cut your existing line where you'd like the valve and take the piece to your home store or a plumbing supply store to get the proper ...


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My uncle had a house like this. Big spring too, several hundred gallons a minute. My recollection was that it was an easily visible current 4 feet wide and 10 inches deep. Being in a warm climate, it was uncovered. About 20 feet of it was in the house. He had a window that was framed only on 3 sides with the unframed side an inch below the water level. ...


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A rain collection system will always have organic matter in it, mostly from bird crap and leaves on the roof. If it's conventional asphalt shingle roof it will also have various petrochemicals in it. One way to reduce this is to throw away the first 50 gallons of every rain event. Take a 45 gallon food grade barrel. Remove the top. Near the bottom drill a 1/...


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The smell is hydrogen sulfide . Causes are bacterial action in decomposing organic material or bacterial action breaking down inorganics such as sulfate. One can smell less than a ppm of H2S. It is not harmful at low levels where it can easily be smelled. In any case the bacteria need to be killed . Bleach (chlorates ) is the most common way to do that ; it ...


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I would call a water treatment company like "Culligan " or a local water treatment company and have them tell you what equipment you need to make this water safe for drinking.


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Would not (in concept) be a deal-breaker for me. Specific case might vary with detailed examination. If you want to go high-falutin' Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater had a spring in the entryway as well as being built over a stream (can't do that in new construction...) The one you are looking at probably served as basic refrigeration and drinking water ...


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Reducing pipe size will certainly reduce the amount of cold water sitting in the pipe, but it will also reduce the pressure at any given flow .vs. an equivalent larger pipe. However, you are proposing to shorten (and likely remove some elbows) from the pipe as well as change the size, and then it's very much "it depends" - there are online ...


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Start by shutting off the water supply for the Hot and Cold lines under the sink. Next detach (unscrew) the hot supply line from the faucet line (if possible). If you can't than unscrew the hose from the valve. Place a bucket under the valve and a rag over the open connection. Slowly open the valve to check for water flow. When (and if) water is flowing into ...


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If the water is not currently leaking that means that there is not an issue with a leaky pipe, but that water was flowing down the path of least resistance; i.e. the shower to the floor? The circumstances that you have related seem to point to the shower head being placed on the floor as the cause of your damage. To rule out other causes it would be best to ...


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Perfectly normal for non-stainless steel pumps to rust. Even stainless steel ones may rust, slightly. The white corrosion may indicate some cast aluminum components, and if so, the combination of aluminum and iron components would also tend to promote galvanic corrosion. It's not a cause for great concern - it's primarily cosmetic. It does lead me personally ...


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The filter should have (2) copper compression fittings on each end. Shut the water off, remove the filter than unscrew the fitting that dripping. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads and hand tighten to the filter. If it's the tubing side of the fitting that's dripping remove the nut to expose the compression ring. Re-seat the tube in the ring and tighten it ...


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Turning the water off will limit the supply of water but it may drip unless you try and fill a glass of water (yes with the water off) this will remove the pressure from the system and should stop the dripping.


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It is probably "safe". However, a problem which results in an overcurrent trip on one breaker might be causing damage to the related equipment (heating element, relays, etc.) in a way that doing so repeatedly (even for a week) might result in other parts of the heater breaking. Nearly impossible to tell, especially over the internet, as there are a ...


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Even a small amount of moisture is not acceptable beneath your shower pan. If the drain is properly connected you shouldn't have any seepage. If you're still getting moisture you need to determine the source. You imply that the fiberglass pan may be porous. Fiberglass isn't porous so it shouldn't be seeping but it can crack. If it's a tile shower you could ...


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Once the supply lines for the fridge have had all the water evaporated there won't an environment for mold to grow. The same can be said for bacteria. You may be able to facilitate the evaporation by opening the hose somewhere in the water supply line which would allow the water to drain faster. If there is a disposable filter it should be removed as it will ...


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Not only should you replace this because it’s leaking, you should replace it because it’s an absolute Frankenstein of a connection and is bound to fail at some point or another. The photo isn’t clear, but it looks like at the metal strap there isn’t a 45° fitting but the “plumber” soldered a piece of soft copper tubing inside a copper pipe without any sort ...


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If you don’t use the lines over time things will grow in poly tubing, but copper not as much. If you have a plug for the line it will keep it from dribbling and collecting contaminants, but the lines will need to be flushed after a period of no use.


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I have the same issue with 2 of 3 valves and the reason I believe is that they are junk. Next time I am going to a plumbing supply store ( not the big box store) and getting a shut off valve, even then your not 100 percent sure that it would not leak. Get a gate valve,at least you can repair them. They look good when you buy them but they are made in China, ...


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Wooden floors finished with BLO are typically waxed. It's a very period finish that's one of the most beautiful when done right and maintained. Over the years I have done many floors like this in historic homes that needed to be period accurate. There are several coats of BLO applied and then the floor is buff waxed with butchers wax applied with 0000 steel ...


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I ran into a similar situation and not being able to locate the correct sized part (saddle) I successfully installed a hose barb fitting Looking at your photo I can't easily find an acceptable location for a threaded barb fitting. Ideally it should be oriented vertically and on top of any pipe section. And obviously before the trap. If it's possible to add ...


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I had a similar problem, so added a T piece with two outlets and its own tap as shown. The source tap at the bottom is old and didn't quite turn off. I feel happier having an extra tap. For your purpose, may have to add a bush to increase the size at one junction. In my area it is permitted to do your own plumbing after the non-return valve. (upstream of ...


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Assuming this is a rental, I do not recommend this at all. If anything goes wrong, and things can go very wrong, you will have a flood on your hands and your landlord will not be happy. If you own this apartment, I do not recommend this at all. The chances of things going wrong are relatively big, and even if everything works correctly, the flow rate will be ...


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This is a problem on systems that have check valves or pressure reducing valves (PRV). What is happening? The system fills up to line pressure or what the PRV is set to. With no leaks and the water heater at its lowest temp the pressure is say 60 psi and now the water heater starts heating the water starts expanding but has no place to go so the pressure ...


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The best way to check the water pressure is with a pressure gauge which I believe you have. I would start by using the pressure reducing valve again. Get it in service with the main supply line coming off the meter. Connect the gauge to a near by spigot and dial the reducing valve adjusting bolt "up" or counter clockwise to reduce the water ...


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You have two ways to get rid of it. Pump the water away. This will allow you to move the water to a higher elevation where it can drain away naturally. See sump pumps. Create a drain for the water. You'll need to determine the best place for water to go. This depends on what is even further from your house. It looks like in the pictures that the driveway ...


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Maybe your shut off valve is before your other lines therefore shutting off all the the water.my pipe from the meter runs directly to my water heater with lines branching off above it. So if they put the shut-off valve before those branching lines that would stop water flow throughout


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If stainless steel is actually an option, I'd always go with stainless, as it has significantly less corrosion than all other options. Specifically 316 stainless, which can withstand chloride levels present in marine conditions. 304 stainless will be strong in very typical levels of chlorides, but if you are experiencing extremely accelerated corrosion, I ...


3

I'm sorry for your frustrations but what a sh!t job by this roofer. What even are those flaps hanging in the gutter; drip edge backup plan? I'd like to see more angles of your roof line but I think this picture will illustrate how water is flowing on your roof. If you're comfortable with ladders then grab a hose and pour water on your roof while you record ...


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Epoxy coating is a solution which requires professional help and expense and is better than the following "desperado" solution. Get in there and clean it thoroughly with hand made attachments. dry it properly with rags, paper fan etc. Scratch a groove on the crack or bad joint. Scratching is important. Allow to dry. Apply white silicon with a ...


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Clean the floor. Wet Warehouse Floors in Atlanta – southeastsealing.com/wet-concrete-floors As this moisture vapor migrates to the surface of the concrete floor it carries with it mineral salts and other impurities within the concrete slab. When the moisture evaporates, the impurities are left on the surface and result in a white colored residue known as ...


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You have this on lifehacks and not DIY,SE so if you want a simple and low cost hack, try leaving the door open. This will create airflow which should help stop/reduce the condensation. Downside is that leaves, snow, stray cats, burglers, lost children, birds, bugs, litter/garbage, dust, dirt, and confused moths could all end up inside your garage over time. ...


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Reduce the differential - raise the cut in pressure to 52 or 53. Or lower the cut-out to 62 and play with the air pressure in the tank, perhaps - I'm familiar with how bladder tanks behave, and got most of any answer written before noticing that you mentioned a diaphragm tank, specifically. 30PSI is an unusually large differential pressure (20PSI is what ...


1

Damage like that cannot ever be repaired properly. It can be bodged however. The question you have to ask in these situations is "would I be happy to find this in a house I'd just bought?". Hopefully the answer is no. As others have commented, this pipe should be replaced either in its entirety, or at least back to a coupler on sound pipe, that is ...


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TLDR: I ran brand new pipes down from the attic, and disconnected corroded old ones. Update on what I ended up doing (the idea may help someone else): I tried using plumber's epoxy on the pipe but it didn't hold. Then I tried a fiberglass resin, and that didn't hold. Then, I called a plumber who basically said I'm SOL, but he offered to replumb my house for ...


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