18

Stainless steel is the obvious choice. Which exact grade is probably more dependent on what you can easily find than what the "most perfect for the job" grade might be, but 316 or 316L would be high on the list and are quite commonly available. Be very careful about ventilating the tank if entering it "for maintenance" - tanks can be deadly. If the water ...


7

A gate valve does not have a "washer set". The valve in the photo appears to be a globe valve. I agree with your plumber that a globe valve is proper in that place. A gate valve or ball valve is intended to be seldom closed, usually to empty out pipes for winter exposure or to repair the plumbing. If you must operate a valve often, as part of your ...


7

There should be no fundamental problem with this, provided that the indicator tube is not closed at the top. You can either install a vented cap to keep debris out, or connect the top of the tube to the top of the tank. As a callow youth I assisted in the construction of a water tank indicator like that. I have also operated a steam boiler with similar ...


6

Although there should be a shutoff under the kitchen sink and one at the hot water heater, turning off the cold water to the entire house will effectively shut off the hot water as well since the hot water heater is fed from the cold water.


6

The hole is to provide atmospheric pressure inside as a reference for the gauge. That is, the pressure indicated is relative to ambient pressure. Or, in other words, the gauge indicates how much more pressure there is inside the pipe than outside the gauge. If the gauge is leaking through the air vent, it is time to replace the gauge. The internal ...


6

To add a bit to the question from Pavel in the comments of Ecnerwals answer: Stainless steel structures in swimming pools are known to be prone to SCC. The use of standard austenitic stainless steels like 304 and 316 is forbidden in this application. The best steels to use for this purpose are the high nickel austenitic steels such as the 6% Mo grades. ...


3

What you pointed at is the pressure relief valve. Seeing that the pressure is fairly low, it could either need adjustment or be failing. The pressure relief valve is basically there to release very high pressure before a pipe/filter/faucet relieves it (eg: blows up). It's basically just a spring pushing against a piston. You can try adjusting it first ...


3

Pressure In a system fed from a header-tank, the pressure depends only on the height of the tank. To increase pressure you have only two or three options: Raise the tank higher. Install an electric pump (these are often used for showers) If your header-tank is filled from a high-pressure municipal supply, you would probably get better pressure from that ...


3

The OP probably has long since satisfied his running water needs, but for anyone reading this later, here is a method to keep two tanks filled with the minimum of installed devices. The only active components required are the pump and two float switches. Each tank must have a float switch and an overflow drain near the top. In each tank the float switch ...


3

Looks like it's an old pressure tank. Link No idea why it would be sitting under your lawn, maybe the previous owners replaced it and decided to bury it if they had to pay to get rid of it. Even if the tank itself isn't leaking, maybe there's a membrane inside that is. Looks like the standing one second from the left.


3

First of all you should turn off the water to the house and water heater . I've had a burst pipe at my vacation home because the power failed, it got really cold and froze pipes. When the power came back on and melted the frozen water in the pipes, there was a badly cracked pipe that did a ton of damage. If you have pex plumbing that doesn't apply, but if ...


3

There are something called "alternating relays" or "alternating switches", not to be confused with alternators for cars/trucks. The good thing is they aren't a "one off" configuration, they are industry standard. The community water system I helped support used one to alternate between 2 pumps. Worked great. https://www....


2

This a "Skipper 45" from SIAMP (a UK brand). You may see videos in their web site. Pour water around the silver button to dissolve the minerals/salts stuck in the screw. Wear rubber gloves and turn the silver button anti-clockwise.


2

The solution was similar to one of the ways Michael Karas suggested in his accepted answer. I used a pliers wrench to grap the outer ring around the flush knobs and turn it counter clockwise. I used considerable force, risking that I would break some of the plastic parts. This was the solution. I managed to open the lid this way and found something similar ...


2

To achieve the maximum flow keep your pump at ground level. With a 1/2" slightly pressurized intake it may help to put 3/4" out put to the water tank but much larger would probably be a waste of $. Make sure to have water in the pump at all times the shaft seals are usually ceramic with no water they overheat and crack. This would be another reason to keep ...


2

You should treat it like a (small) swimming pool. Maintain the free available chlorine (FAC) level between 1 - 3 parts per million (PPM). PPM is basically the same as milligrams per liter. So for 8000 liters you need 8 - 24 grams of chlorine. I would use calcium hypochorite powder/granules, which is commonly 65% Ca(ClO)2 by weight; so you will need 12.3 - 36....


2

Besides the suggestions above some things you might try: Oxygenation: a small pump set up in the tank pumping the water into the air gap above water float level you have or an air pump pumping air into the water might help with some of the issues. The pump can be placed on a timer to cut down the electrical expense. Refreshing the water on a regular basis. ...


2

There are many online calculators for this, such as: http://m.convert-me.com/en/convert/pressure/mwater.html A meter of water is about 1.5 PSI so 12 meters is only 18 PSI and would be pretty disappointing for water pressure. You will have to run around in the shower to get wet. When no water is flowing, the size of the pipe and the horizontal run are ...


2

That is what we call a "pop off", or pressure relief valve. If the water pressure gets too high, that valve will open and drain into your waste water system. Its there so your tank, or hot water system, does not blow up due to getting too hot.


2

A DPDT air conditioning relay should do the trick House 2 is connected by default. When House 1 calls for water, it "takes over" and powers the well itself. Air conditioning relays are rated at 30A and are rated to start motors. It's a 2-pole relay, and it switches both hots, but not ground. This setup must not use neutral: if it does, get a 3-pole ...


2

The simplest method is to mount the tanks so that the water surfaces are level when the tanks are full. This means that they can be connected, without valves etc, together directly to the pump inlet. If the full surfaces are not level, then one tank will fill the other and may cause an overflow, unless one-way valves etc are fitted.


2

This may not be the cheapest solution, but it's still probably cheaper than or close to the price of a cistern plus all the extra plumbing to make it work. Other posters are correct, you don't want to store potable water (unless you want to treat and manage it yourself). Go on LabX or Ebay and look for a "liquid chiller" or "recirculating ...


2

With proper valve and control setup, you can set it at whatever height you like. Level control in each tank would be independent of the other tank. There are multiple ways to do this. One would be to have the float switch on the 500 gallon tank, and a float valve (fed from the 500 gallon tank) on the 300 gallon tank, as well as a check valve on the output of ...


1

What do I need to do to fix this? It would depend- if you are fairly certain that the overflow issue cause is the fill valve then that needs to be addressed, as you already seem to know. Is there anything I can do to fix the current valve? Maybe- if you are fairly handy you could probably disassemble the float valve and repair or replace the washers ...


1

Hot water (how hot would depend on the type of plastic - at least warm, to start with) and baking soda (bicarbonate of soda.) Let stand (or agitate, if you want) for 24-48 hours, repeat as needed. If you can source food-grade lye and are aware of and able to take appropriate precautions for handling it, it would work a bit faster, but in both cases you are ...


1

Yes you can. Feeding the tank from above will exert the constant maximum head on the pump until the tank is full. Feeding from bottom leads to uniform increase of head from zero to maximum head. Also, feeding from the bottom will cut the energy consumption and time by half if the same capacity pump is used (I think). You can prevent the backflow by putting a ...


1

It's a quick connector. Water pressure actually pushes the locking mechanism to hold the tube in. With the pressure completely relieved you can press the grey ring around the blue tube inward and at the same time pull the tube out.


1

Assuming all the taps are off it should be fine. The water will stay in the tank. It will waste some hydro, but shouldn't destroy the tank.


1

Even though you are not drinking this water, you are using it for showers and for washing dishes - so it probably needs to be treated nearly as seriously as drinking water. The main methods are filtration, treatment with floculants, thermal treatment and chlorination. Chlorination is a widely used method. Chlorine is present in most disinfected drinking-...


1

Since this is for a "not for drinking", unfiltered, untreated, non-potable water storage tank. It seems your goal is just to reduce the levels of bacteria/fungi/algae in the water. If you can get the interior water temperature over 50 deg C, you start killing off the stuff living in the water. With 40 deg C in the shade, it sounds like you have lots of ...


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