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9

You can easily calculate how often regeneration will be necessary if you know how hard your water is. If you are using city water, they should be able to tell you otherwise there are kits you can use to test your water. And any softener salesman should test your water as part of sizing your system. In my area, the hardness is measured in grains per gallon ...


8

Basically, water softeners contain a filter with a chemical that attracts positive ions (like the alkali metals calcium and magnesium). The filter is originally "charged" with sodium ions using the salt you put in the bin. Run hard water through it, and the calcium and magnesium compounds (mostly carbonates) are converted to sodium carbonate, which doesn't ...


7

Water softeners do use water to recharge, but it shouldn't be that much. With a new filter and all electronic controls working, most systems should send no more than 25 gallons through during a recharge cycle. The theory is that the filter media (special polymer beads, often stored in what looks like a high-pressure air tank) is "charged" with a high amount ...


7

The setting is the "input hardness". The zeolite matrix resin (the part that does the water softening) will nearly completely soften the water until it runs out of sodium. The resin in the tank is good for a certain amount of "hardness" (measured in grains), probably in the range 10,000-50,000 grains. The setting is used to calculate when the resin will need ...


7

The filter can help keep the softener from getting dirty while the filter doesn't care if it gets hard or soft water. So I'd have the filter first.


6

The manual will say something like Flushing the heat exchanger with a descaling solution if mineral build up is evident. Scale build up will shorten the life of the water heater, descale heat exchanger thoroughly and repeat annually depending on mineral content of ground water. (From Bosch 2400E NG user manual) or maybe something like Periodic ...


5

Sounds like classic symptoms of hard water. Others: Spotty dishes, clothes that don't seem to get clean without using a lot of detergent. Soap doesn't get very "sudsy" when you get it wet. Soap scum on your bathtub. Buildup of mineral-like crust on shower-heads. Water softener heating element failure. You are very likely going to need a water softener ...


5

It controls the weight of the salt that is used. Potassium has a higher atomic weight than sodium, but they play the same role in the ion exchange reaction in the softener, so you need a greater weight of KCl to achieve the same level of softening. Potassium chloride has a molecular weight of 74.55, whereas Sodium chloride has one of 58.44, so in theory ...


5

I'm not sure if "waste" is the correct term. They need to backwash some water through them in order to remove the hard materials ("regenerate") they have removed from your water; it's a necessary evil of the process. It is however not just running water for the sake of it. How often this process runs will depend on how much water you use and how hard your ...


5

The lucklihood is that it will reduce the pressure throughout the house significantly, especially if more than one faucet is running at once. It is also possible that the softener might not work correclty due to the reduced pressure, or that the output pressure will be even less than expected. I would think that hard water for a couple extra days would ...


5

There's a good reason it's "an insane buy" but since you seem to be committed regardless (these things are why you pay an inspector and put conditions in the contract allowing you to walk away if inspection turns up issues...) There's no guarantee that a new well with solve any (much less all) of the issues, unless it ends up in a different water supply (not ...


5

B2 is a bypass valve. B1 and B3 are so you can remove the water softener to replace it and still have water pressure in the house. B2 (only) or B1, B3 (only) should be open at any one time. "All the way to the right" (wound in clockwise) is closed on a standard valve. "All the way to the left" (wound out anti-clockwise) is open on a standard valve. You may ...


5

The only thing that comes to mind for a practical "salt-free-softener" is a Reverse Osmosis (RO) system. You could also distill the entire water supply, but it's not practical unless you happen to be sitting on a lot of excess power/heat. An RO system is rather costly and wastes a considerable quantity of water, so they are more commonly used for drinking &...


4

Finally found a web page that alluded to the answer. On the front panel of the control unit there is a small raindrop. While touching the raindrop (it doesn't look like a button), push the program/enter button. It will cycle through the factory settings, such as capacity and hardness.


4

I did some significant research on water softeners a few years ago. I did not find numbers for exactly how much water they use when the regenerate. However, there are multiple systems to determine when they regenerate. This can make a big difference on how much water is used. The simplest and cheapest models just have a timer for when they regenerate. ...


4

Easy water does not lower hardness. It is some wires you wrap around the pipes that cost $1500 and "magnetize" the limestone so it "will not stick to you pipes and fixtures as much". Look it up under scams, fraud etc...


4

Home improvement stores typically carry test kits. I've found them right by water filters and water softeners. They usually are small paper strips that change color based on levels of hardness. The kit will also come with a legend to allow you to compare the strips.


4

No disrespect to you or your plumber, but I would be suspicious of any person who is able to predict the demise of an appliance by reading mineral andiron deposits in an aerator screen. It is common after replacing a water heating tank (or doing any work on the plumbing) for debris such as hard water minerals, silt and bits of metal and rust to break free ...


4

Forgot to update. The water conditioning company said it's not because of the regeneration time. They said that it's a fairly common issue where drain and/or control valves are dirty and either need to be cleaned or replaced. In my case they replaced both types of valves. They also advised me to run cold water (not hot) until the saltiness passed. That way ...


3

The reservoir of your unit needs to have a reasonable amount of rock salt in it in order to create a brine. You can fill it with salt, then check it occsionally and refill when you can see water over the remaining salt. The Costco unit you linked still has two tanks, they are simply contained in a single package. Ion exchange water softeners all work on the ...


3

It's heating the existing water in the tank. And the tubes between the pump and the tank don't carry water; they carry refrigerant. The pump heats the refrigerant using the latent heat of the well water. The refrigerant goes through a large coil in the tank, heating the coil. The coil is immersed in your soft/clean water.


3

"Iron Reducing Bacteria" create energy by oxidizing soluble iron in the water. In the process this creates insoluble iron which settles out and leaves iron staining. The bacteria themselves create biofilms or foamy messes in several areas, most notably toilet tanks and water heaters. Look in your toilet tank, if you have similar foam and iron staining you ...


3

Looking at your second photo, I'd say that the top spigot is soft and the bottom is hard. The bottom is directly connected to the water main, coming up through the concrete, through the pressure regulator (the bell-shaped object) and thus, is connected before the softener. There is no way to tell from the photos what is coming from the back-yard spigot. ...


3

If that water softener has a shutoff valve (it should, for service purposes), your task is simple - shut off the softener and test each sillcock. If you still get water, it's hard water. If not, you may get a very small flow for a moment (until the plumbing is all depressurized) but it'll stop quickly. If it does NOT have a shutoff valve, one should really ...


3

Scale will always occur except in extremely unusual circumstances that only cover 10% of the human population who obtains extremely low-calcium water in extremely wet regions like the Pacific Northwest of North America. For everyone else, scale is a fact of life. Certain minerals dissolved in the water, for instance calcium carbonate, have solubilities that ...


3

The down pipe from your water heater relief valve should not be plumbed into a drain. the output end may be hovering over a floor drain but not hard plumbed to drain lines. If the relief blows off due to high pressure (possibly steam) it could rupture a hard plumbed drain line. There are two drain lines from a water softener; one over-flo from the brine ...


3

Conductivity meters may be found online for about $12 American. They'll give you a direct reading in PPM. Some hardware stores carry the things too, but they'll ask $30 plus for them. I tested my cheap one against known standards, and it works just fine.


3

I would highly doubt that they are flammable. Water softener beads are made from zeolites, which are aluminosilicates (minerals containing aluminium, silicon, and oxygen). They are much more similar to clay than organic resins, although they may be manufactured with a binder of some sort. If you're really worried that they are flammable, try burning some of ...


3

Magnetic and electronic water softening devices do not reduce the level of calcium, magnesium, etc in your water. Don't waste your money on them. Resin water softeners that require salt are the best way to continually soften all of your water. Technically it's not the only way, a reverse osmosis membrane can also soften water, but typically not in the ...


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