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I had that exact problem at the house I previously lived in. It started when the water company installed meters & check valves. Before then, any expansion in the water heater would simply push a bit of water back into the distribution system. After the installation of the check valves, the water heater pop-off valve would even release a bit of hot ...


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If you get a burst of water flow which seems like an over-pressure, it may be time to replace the pressure reducing valve in the water supply line.I would put a pressure gauge on the cold water. Then run the water for a few seconds until the pressure stabilizes in the line. Stop running water and see if the pressure gauge rises as I suspect it will. You can ...


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Help your wife to become at least something of a country person by letting her fix it while you (patiently and nicely) explain what needs to be done. Either of you should write down notes and/or take video or pictures, it being the modern era, to help with doing it unassisted. Then practice a few times without your help to build confidence and figure out ...


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From the comments, it appears the PRV failed, likely with a slow leak on the valve. A good way to test for this is to shutoff the hot water tank, close all valves in the house while monitoring pressure over time. If the pressure slowly climbs even without the hot water heater running then replacing the PRV would be my next step.


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It could be due to a backflow prevention valve somewhere downstream the expansion tank. This BPV must be upstream the expansion tank, if the expansion tank is upstream of the heater. I.e., there must not be any blocking device between heater and expansion tank. Sometimes the BPV is only a small insert in the connection of another device/valve, not to be ...


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Hi Jay, Going to 3/4 pipe will help yes. What you need to be carefull is : Avoid to install un-necessary 90 elboy or splitter or connector. Always try to run your Pex if you will use Plastic Pex, with curve, No Bend (Never). If you can run your line until your mixer (shower selector) without any fittings, it's the best situation to maximize the preasure....


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Upsizing from 1/2 to larger pipe will help, but only if the upstream supply supports it. In this case, with a 3/4" main, it is probably worth doing. Your plan of running 1/2" to and from the water heater is no good, go with 3/4" until you reduce to each fixture leg with 1/2". You shouldn't have to worry about big hot or cold swings in shower temperature, ...


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You should start by opening up the unit and replacing the bibb washers. When worn they can vibrate and cause unholy squeals.


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It sounds like your pressure reducing valve (regulator) is not working properly. Normally the max pressure is 80 psi or less, there are several possibilities since this was not a problem in the past we will go to debris plugging the orifices. I have found that rust / scale has prevented the valve from fully closing thus you see full pressure at all times ...


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