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In my opinion, if your water is quite hard, your exchanger got clogged (with limestone) and need to be replaced if it's indirect heat (main closed loop trough the burning chamber and plate exchanger to DHW) or just have the water heater single exchanger (if it's direct hot water) cleaned with acid. The last time my hot water pressure dropped was because of ...


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I have a suggestion for Members' reference, but no description is absolutely...while no harm in trying guys Water supply directly connect to 2nd floor Storage Tank by using floating valve (leaves a T point also,before inlet to) Joint the booster pump to 2nd floor S.T; add a reducer at booster pump inlet (reduces smaller to pump); add a check valve for the ...


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You indicated you're on city water. Even assuming it's only a 1/2" supply line into the house your pressure on entry almost certainly is over 100 psi. Most water companies deliver at 125 to 150 psi. Recommended pressure in homes is 65 to 70 psi. You almost certainly have a pressure regulator on your system. I think it's required on all city supplied water ...


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I think that you have a partial 'blocker' in your water line. It might be something that get into it while doing the pipe repair. Since it's affecting all of your house, it must be in the part of the piping that is common to all of them, so somewhere between there and your pressure gauge. Its most likely somewhere that is most likely to trap it, so to speak. ...


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Troubleshoot and eliminate the most unlikely, bearing in mind that the more assumptions you have to make, the less likely it is the root cause (Occam's razor). the pump does not run during filling, so scratch that the only "active" component during filling, normally, is electrically controlled fill valve. a high-pitched squeal or whistle is very commonly ...


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There are Apps showing frequency spectra, e.g. spectroid. Taking screen shots of the spectrum when the (main) water valve is unchanged and when the throughput is reduced helps to find out if the problem is in the water flow or in electrical parts. A 2nd person turning the valve while watching the spectrum to check if and how the frequency changes can give a ...


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I don't mean this as a complete answer but what I would do to start. I'm assuming you've done the obvious like checking the supply line and shutoff valve for obstructions from calcification, etc. The problem is almost certainly in the water supply system. If the external supply line is good to go then you need to go under the hood. Usually that type of sound ...


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If it's only that one sink it very likely is caused by corrosion or blockage between the shutoff and the faucet. The hot water side is especially susceptible to scale buildup. There are a few basic things to check: First make sure the hot shutoff valve is fully on. If the shutoff is old it could have scale buildup in the shutoff valve. Turning it on ...


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Look up the installation manual for the HS Tarm OT-70. In the 70s, these were hooked up to pressurized hydronic systems. To prevent boiler explosions, they were required to be installed with at least one zone having an air-conditioner like thermostat -- above a certain temp, the zone opens, and the entire set of radiators works to radiate heat. It isn't ...


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In the 70’s we did install heat loops in wood stoves , they were open tank pumped units. Why open tank pumped? The system had to be open to prevent a pressurized system because pressurized systems are boilers and boilers are regulated, require steam certified pipe fitters. The systems we used had check valves that allowed water in the heated tank as it was ...


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A woodstove would never be connected to a cylinder in such a fashion. The only use for the thermostatic valve is to control the output of the hot water tank to the user and a common setting is 46 degrees C. The hot out pipe of the woodstove should have the combined P&T valve fitted with an expansion pressure vessel to allow for the normal water ...


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Is there any other place where you could use this high temperature water? Is this for a residential or commercial building? What is the maximum allowable water temp in the cylinder? An alternate to dumping the hot water through a pressure and/or temperature device would be to install a fan coil to reduce the excess water temperature and not introduce any ...


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