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2

TPR piping has one solitary purpose, and that is to relieve pressure should a problem arise that overpressures or boils water in the heater. Such a problem could include the city supply overpressuring for some reason. The discharge will be steam or water, and it needs to discharge somewhere (preferably: safe). The discharge could be massive since it is ...


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If you're serious about correcting the problem you could get a 10 gallon tank, bucket, capable of handling 210 degrees F. and a hot water circulating pump with a float activation switch. the TPR valve discharges water into the bucket, the float switch activates the pump, the pump pumps the water out the piping that it already there going outside. These pumps ...


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I'd cut it off just above the first elbow. If there's a drain in the back of the pan it can empty out there. Not perfect, but better than what you got now. The end of the relief pipe is supposed to come down to within 6" of the floor, but it looks like that's about where it would be.


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Grundfos makes a pump that has a timer built in. Set it to come on about 1 hour before the water is likely to be used. Definitely make sure there is a check valve between the cold water valve and where the pump ties in to it so hot water doesn’t bleed in to your cold water. Last thing to check is if the recirculation line goes to the kitchen and then back to ...


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Most likely what happened is that the hot water pipes were run in the same chase (interior wall space) as your heating ducts or even inside of the ducts themselves. That happens when someone adds a recirculating pump system to a house not built that way, because they need to run pipes back to the pump, but it's difficult to get access to chases to do so. So ...


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Water hammer can happen with very low flows. The fact that it stopped for a few days after draining your water heater tells me that a water hammer arrestor would fix the problem as well as a “air leg”. when we built homes my dad would install vertical dead end pipe 2-3’ long pointing up on the supply line and sometimes do the same in bathrooms. This air ...


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So long as you do not have any check valves between the hot and cold supply, an expansion tank can be located anywhere in the system. Thus, if you have a check valve or PRV (which acts effectively the same as a check valve from the system point of view) on the main inlet to the house, you can put the expansion tank wherever it is convenient if there are no ...


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Reasons for expansion tanks on a domestic water systems: Required by code/bylaw. Some municipalities may require one be installed so that the municipality's water system does not receive back pressure caused by the expansion of water when heated. Use of backflow prevention devises. When using a backflow devise, as may be required by some codes/bylaws, the ...


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maybe you didn't get the cold turned back on fully


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You shouldn't have shut off the cold water feed. that helps nothing and may reduce the flushing efficiency. But you did, so most likely you ended up draining all hot water piping in the rest of the house. You will have to run every hot water faucet/valve individually until you've cleared all the air out of every pipe. It wouldn't hurt to re-flush, but ...


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I would use indirect hot water heaters here Since the units already have hydronic heat, it makes very little sense to have a whole separate (and likely inefficient) burner for providing domestic hot water service when instead, it can run off the existing boilers, using what is called an indirect hot water heater. These look like, and behave like, typical ...


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The hot water is at the top of the tank and is pushed out by introducing the cold water to the bottom of the tank through the dip tube, as shown in your diagram. If you run the tank out of hot water or shut the heating elements off you will just have the same temperature water coming out of your hot water faucets as you do coming in your cold line.


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One does not have to resort to an expensive internet capable device to enjoy the money savings of a controlled water heater. There are a number of mechanical electrical timers which would serve the intended purpose. Prior to installing a solar water heater panel on the roof, our house was equipped with a water heater timer rated to 220v which had multiple ...


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So you say 30 to 40% - that translates to how many dollars, then compare that to the 300-400 that you say the wifi equipped unit costs extra. How long based on your use and savings will it take to cover that. You can now decide.


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The "overflow pipe" in the diagram is not an overflow pipe. The water heater is fitted with a relief valve which remains closed against the usual water pressure in your plumbing, but which will pop open if either the pressure or the temperature in the heater tank gets dangerously high. Overpressure will occur if the cold water inlet is somehow blocked, all ...


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