18

If you have a wet vacuum cleaner with a slotted attachment, use that first to suck up pooling water and very wet insulation. Then pull out as much of the wet insulation around both elements as you can. If it rips, that's OK because you can add it back when it dries out. If the area around the heating elements and wiring is dry and no water is dripping or ...


12

You should remove and replace the valve. If you cannot open it using the lever chances are good that it also will not function properly when needed. So you have a dangerous condition. It looks like you have limited space to work in so you may need to remove the downpipe from the valve before you can remove it. But a new one is cheap insurance vs. a ...


8

A cable with two insulated 4 AWG wires and an uninsulated grounding wire in a common sheath (which is what makes them a cable.) You might need a real electrical supplier, rather than Homely's Despot to find that. It's a bit out of their usual range of product.


7

This is better done with conduit As it turns out, 4/2 NM-B cable isn't even made; you could use a 4/3 NM-B cable, but that's upwards of $4/ft. You are much better off wiring this using a 1" ENT ("smurf tube") with a couple of 4AWG THHNs for the hots and an 8AWG THHN ground. Even in copper, this costs less than $3/ft; if you went with 2AWG ...


7

Do I need to set the water heater to pilot, in order to avoid the dangerous scenario outlined above? Doing anything to our water heater makes me a bit nervous. NO, In the amount of time that it will take you change the valve there will be no issues with it set to the current temperature. Once you turn the water off, even if someone opened a hot water faucet ...


6

I think it's fear of downgrading. I think the pro plumbers are unwilling to downgrade them. For instance, the latest Codes require water heaters to have better insulation than they did before. This means they are larger. This is a well-known problem: a new heater often won't fit in the same location. That means you must either downgrade a size, or go to a ...


6

Below is a picture of the lighting instructions for your water heater taken from Rheem's website. Make sure to follow the lighting instructions carefully and do not skip any steps. This same instruction set should be available as a sticker on your unit. It looks like you do in fact have to depress the knob in order to turn it so avoid using force. If you are ...


6

You should be looking at around 13 ohms for a standard 4500 watt heating element. If an element is burned up, your meter would have 0 deflection. Our water heaters here in Florida always have the top element going on first because that's the first water leaving the tank and getting into your shower. Once the top thermostat reaches its setting it turns off ...


5

It ends up it was not directly the hot water heater. We have a leak in a hot water line that goes down into the foundation of our basement which is even worse. I thought I'd come back and update in case someone sees this in the future. Thank you to all who answered.


5

I'm reading that I need to shut off the water, then drain the lines, before making the repair. Yes and no to draining the lines. You really only need to drain the lines enough that you don't flood yourself when you take out the fitting or valve. All this generally means is to shut off the water and then open a faucet at or below the level of the pipe you're ...


5

TL;DR 25A is the right size First of all, your hunch is correct. 4500W/240V = 18.75A. That should be on a 25A breaker because it is a continuous load - if you pulled water out at a rate that the water heater could not keep up with (or barely keep up with) then the elements would stay on "forever". You also did the right thing changing the wire. 12 ...


4

The purpose of the anode is to corrode first before your tank does. It may be that your water chemistry is such that the anode is only consumed slowly (or absurdly fast-- one of our clients had an anode go from 1" diameter down to the steel core in a few weeks due to their chemistry problem). If you check the anode periodically and see little change ...


4

The reasons for shutting off the water heater are twofold: First, if the heater comes "on" while you have things disassembled then the water in the tank will expand and may cause some minor flooding. Second, and more importantly, if something goes awry and you have to make a run to the hardware store, or some other issue drags things out, the tank ...


4

My tankless water heater (80% efficient, with stainless steel style vent) does indeed use a condensate drain in its venting system. This was required to comply with local codes and the follow the installation instructions for my particular unit. There is a “condensate drain tee” fitting which has a small hose nipple on the side, to which a condensate drain ...


4

Check to make sure that water's getting to the bottom of the heater If an electric water heater is drawing nameplate power but not appreciably heating water, then one of two things is wrong. Either the dip tube in the heater has broken off internally, causing water to "short circuit" past the heating elements, or the heater was plumbed backwards ...


4

TLDR: Replace house's electric 100A resistance strip-heat "furnace" AND 40A its air conditioning with a 30A wide-range heat pump that does not require emergency heat. Enjoy lower electric bills all year. Install subpanel to allow three 40A breakers to be in the same panel. An on-demand is a great idea. And 27 kw is serious enough that your project ...


4

Try running the water for several minutes, both hot and cold sides, at the other fixtures too. Do they behave similarly? Do the symptoms diminish after a minute or two? When a water system is opened, especially for something like a heater replacement, air gets into the pipes. Eventually the air finds its way out through the various faucets. As bubbles of air ...


4

No, you're not nuts. The plumber might be crazy like a fox, though. Oh look, your water heater broke, despite all we did to try and "save" it... It should have been (should be) shut down, drained, and blown dry, at which point it won't be growing any bacteria that will survive it being fired back up, nor rusting.


4

Hard to tell sizes from your pictures so you'll have to adapt this answer to the actual sizes of your fittings. Assuming the blue pipe is 3/8 inch PEX, and the fitting highlighted here is a 1/2 inch hose connected to a 1/2 inch threaded nipple: Then one way to do this would be to insert, at that connection point, another threaded Tee, another threaded ...


4

It is simply that you are further away from the source of hot water. You need to purge all of the standing water in the pipes leading to the second/third floor from the water heater in your garage before you get to the hot water from your water heater. If you are allowed to make modifications, you could have a recirculation pump installed to constantly ...


4

If the water tank has three legs, one on each brick, go for it. If that's particle board on the bottom, I'd replace it with plywood. You might want to seal the base with a water sealer.


3

You can breaker down but not up, so yes, you can just replace the 60 with a 50, the wires should fit. Before you do that though, check with the installation instructions to verify what your plumber wants you to do. The instructions will specify what size breaker you need to have and changing those directions can void any warranties you might have.


3

I'll answer this with the example of my own experience just this year. I had a similar situation with my 14 year old water heater. I used a pair of pliers to open the valve, which didn't really take much. What I didn't realize is that it didn't seat again. I had water dribbling out constantly, but I mistook it for the AC since it was in the same location as ...


3

My belief is the controls are cheaper. I have installed a 5500w element in my home’s water heater after the element had failed. The control was rated for 4100 or 4500 I don’t remember, and within 6 months that control or thermostat went out. It was a high end model, so I replaced the controller and it only lasted 4 months. I called for a warranty (...


3

Make sure you wait for someone with CEC knowledge. It seems some provinces include water heaters as heating equipment and apply CEC 62-114(6) and (7), which I think eliminates the 125% continuous load requirement for the wire if the wire is at least 80% of breaker. So 18.75A in a residential application would allow 20A wire, maximum breaker of 25A. In the US ...


3

Your core concern is the amount of time it takes between opening the hot faucet and getting water that is actually hot. This plan will do nothing for that. The delay is caused by the volume of water (inventory) that is in the pipe in between the water heater and the faucet. That pipe is exposed to ambient? Outside? air, and has cooled off. That water must ...


3

Do the simple thing .. The simplest thing is to add more electric-fuel tank for heating and storing water. You'd do a bit of math to figure out how many gallons you want to be able to consume in a window of time and how much recovery time you'll allow for the heaters to come back up to temperature before the next demand cycle hits. With that one can estimate ...


3

Ancient thread, but since I couldn't find this info anywhere else, I'm going to post to this. Since it's only the hot water that isn't flowing, the problem isn't the aerator, it's almost certainly the cartridge (the device connected to the faucet handle that mixes the hot and cold water). That has very small openings that clog/jam easily. You may want to ...


3

I used PTFE tape. Then I connected a wire from the tank to the rod with a magnet. I think it is good enough. The voltage drop is 0.1V.


3

Flush it using the drain valve. Hard water deposits will settle out on the bottom, and impair the transfer of heat from the flame to the water. If you are depending on the water heater thermostat to prevent scalding your children, you're not abnormal, but you're doing it wrong. Use a tempering valve between the water heater and your hot water system. That ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible