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It is highly likely that that piping arrangement is made that way to facilitate the installation of a water softener. A water softener will have a need to accept a pipe with incoming hard water and another for the outflow of conditioned water to the rest of the residence.
When a water softener is installed the U shaped fittings at the bottom of those two ...
12
You need to drain the water from the heating system, effect the remove and replace, then refill the heating system.
Some circulating-water heating systems are filled with tap water from the home's water supply, while others are isolated from the water supply plumbing and are filled with some other liquid. My experience is entirely with the most common tap ...
8
Heating systems can vary by region. I have answered this from a UK perspective as you appear to have bought from B&Q.
If the broken part is the white thermostatic cap, then it would be much easier to find a compatible replacement to avoid having to change the valve body. The cap can be removed by undoing the knurled ring directly below it, finger force ...
6
Looks to me like a heat trap, intended to keep hot water from flowing back through the cold water inlet.
A connection for a water softener would be arranged so that all water to the house (with possible exception of the outdoor faucets and the kitchen cold) could be routed through the softener. Softening just the hot water makes little sense.
3
Water heater anodes usually last about 3 to 5 years or so depending on the chemistry and hardness of your water, so chances are, if your water heater is only 3 years old, that's not the problem. That being said, it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the anode and make sure it's doing OK.
The top of the anode rod is typically visible on the top of your water ...
3
Without knowing the rest of the layout, I can't be 100% certain, but there a few possibilities:
As others have mentioned, it could have been placed that way because the original owner intended to fit a "softener" or "filter".
Since the house is over 20 years old, its possible there was previously some other device fitted that has subsequently been removed.
...
3
It is a Tundish drain which allows the liquid to continue while preventing any reverse contamination through use of an air gap.
2
Those plastic shut off valves on water heater tanks are obviously very cheap and probably low quality as well.
There are likely two main reasons that the valve leaks (maybe three).
There could possibly be residual grit and particulate laying in the valve assembly that keep it from seating correctly. If you captured the initial flush water from your tank ...
2
Because these local water heaters are often open systems, i.e. the increased pressure from heated water must not damage the installation. The pressure of the water net is only up to the faucet valve. After that valve it is in contact with the normal air (pressure) and flows to the heater, back to the faucet valve where it can be mixed with the cold water. ...
2
@Michael Karas has it right. This website has a DIY that explains things rather well, complete with diagram and YouTube video. They recommend 10ft of pipe between the water softener and water heater to prevent backflow of hot water into the softener, similar to @Hot Licks heat trap, but I personally would use a check valve, which allows flow in only one ...
2
I had this same problem, and it was caused by a clogged filter screen in the hot water exit pipe just above the tank. Over the course of several months, I noticed my hot water pressure throughout the house had decreased. It was usable, but clearly less pressure than the cold water output. I thought there may be air in the tank or pipes so I decided to drain ...
1
It is possible to buy special 'freezer packs' that are designed to fit round pipework, with the intention of locally freezing the contents of the pipe, causing a temporary blockage.
Having said that, I would be rather wary of using them, (and have never done so) as the result if you get it wrong would be some catastrophic and messy flooding.
1
One thing to try to get the sediment stirred up and moving out would be:
Turn off the heat supply (caution, mostly)
Shut off the cold water supply to the heater. Open a hot water faucet, or more than one. Remove the aerator screens...crud may come out here.
Attach a hose to the drain and to a cold hose bibb. Open the drain, and open the hose bibb. Allow ...
1
A black oily substance in sinks can be caused by hard/caustic water eating away at rubber compounds (washers, gaskets, etc.) in the domestic water system. This could possibly be caused by an anode rod that has been eaten away resulting in higher concentrations of corrosives in the water. However, that's unlikey after only three years but it's not impossible. ...
1
Technically, a UPS could be wired in, but there are a few caveats:
It depends on the electrical codes and gas codes in your area. The thought of making a change which might affect a gas-powered appliance would make me very cautious. Another worry would be an improperly isolated device feeding power back into the line, creating a shock hazard. Be sure to use ...
1
I can answer this for those that experience this with the HTP PH-LD. these are vary nice stainless steel machines. It can be corrected with an offset adjustment on the gas valve. An experienced technician can adjust this to run perfectly and not have any sound. The fan speed can also be turned down in the program but don't turn it down for the noise. This ...
1
The schematic is most directly applicable to a heater installed with ordinary two-way valves. Your heater is installed with a service valve kit which has three-way valves and it doesn't quite match the document. Still, the flush procedure is the same.
Please refer to the photo of my heater's valves below. The yellow handles are the valves; the round pieces ...
1
From the pictures and the diagram, the best I can tell is V3 and V4 are the two valves with yellow handles further back on the sides of the two valve bases in your picture and they cut off the water inlet and outlet. V1 and V2 are the valves you have labeled as V3 and V4. They open the threaded ports so you can do the flush. A closeup picture from the right ...
1
The cold is just air cooled in the home and it has no more moisture than the house air in-fact it is dryer than the house air. I have vented 2 into Areas that are not conditioned , I think the attic is a good option as in the summer it will help cool that space. If you have plumbing in the attic I would choose a different location as this can help the pipes ...
1
I had this problem.
I created a short connector using a brass garden hose thread to female iron pipe thread, a male iron pipe thread to pex connector, a short length of 1/2" pex and a 1/2" sharkbite end plug. While the drain assembly continued to leak it leaks into this short length of pipe and fills it.
If I ever drain it I can just unscrew the ...
1
Flip the breaker and let the tank cool down. If the water stops dripping your problem is probably the thermostat. If it just slowed down it's probably time for a pressure relief valve.
Sometimes the seats in the pressure relief valves get some corrosion. Try flipping the little lever a couple times. Please be careful, moving the lever will cause a ...
1
It should work still. Just make sure not to overtighten when replacing if it is a glass lined tank.
1
Actually the only real issue is the lack of isolation valve on the recirculation connection, resulting in the constant water supply to the water heater.
Depending on the age of your Navien NPE-A model, he did you a favor.
You need a crossover valve installed under one of your faucets that is far away from the water heater (there are a few different styles ...
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