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I would also agree it looks like badly installed drywall anchors or perhaps in the case of the one sticking out even a stripped screw that whomever worked on this before had trouble removing was left in an old hardens stud making it even more of a challenge to remove that usual. In any case I would either remove the object sticking out entirely by either ...


6

It appears to me that the touch-up paint color doesn't match the original color very well. Either new, better matching paint will be necessary to cover the touch-up spots again, or repaint the entire wall. It also appears that the texture of the main wall was created by using a roller to paint the entire wall at once and the mismatched texture in the touch-...


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Assuming re-finishing the entire wall is right out of the question, except for a new coat of emulsion... This might be easier if that's anaglypta on the walls rather than textured paint, but the 'fix' is about the same either way. Use a cheap chisel or sharp wallpaper scraper to get the worst of the over-filled patches off, taking the paper or paint off for ...


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Just wanted to share my experience, in case someone lands on this page while searching how to mount their TV on their SIP wall — like I did... while doing lots or research... My wall is basically 1 cm of OSB, then 1 cm of plasterboard: My TV is less than 20 kg, but the bracket is full motion (the TV can go as far as 43 cm from the wall), so it can make the ...


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I think it is a heat detector. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-smoke-heat-detectors-1810835303 This is in the right sort of place for something like this. A lot of these ancestors of the smoke detector had a "boob" configuration. I think the nipple equivalent was a low melting point metal and when it melted the alarm would trigger.


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Yes, this project will require a building permit and review from the Columbus Building and Zoning Services dept. There is a PDF link on https://www.columbus.gov/bzs/Permits/ of types of work that is exempted from permit requirements, and interior framing, even non load-bearing, is not on that list. In short, generally any time you are doing new drywall work ...


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In general, a permit is required for renovations on the building framing skeletons (support beams, columns...etc.), and change of building facet/footprint through expansion or reducing. No, interior works not involving the main support components/framing usually do not require permits (unless you are changing "the use" of the building that involves ...


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I would start with a 10 inch or so aluminum French cleat. Can you glue a 3/4" plywood "backing" to the mirror? If so, you could screw the cleat to the backing. If the wall is hollow, and the studs are not in a convenient place, you could use a couple toggle bolts for that part. At the bottom of the mirror, you should attach an ...


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If you mean just set it on the floor and use pressure to hold the bottom of the wall in place? No I would not even consider that. It needs to be held in place in some manner. Concrete screws will work be considerate of the length you use. They are made to go only 1 1/4" into the concrete. Usually any longer than that, they will shear off and do you no ...


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The ground wires on your old switches were surely connected to the exposed metal parts of the switches, so it's really no different on that basis. It is normal for the switch "ears" or extended parts (less ear-like on these as they don't have the scored parts you can break off for other types of boxes) bear on the wall surface. There is a figure ...


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The plate should be replaced. The stud bottoms are seriously affected too. If possible, investigate the damage in the crawlspace too. The repairs may need to start there. Termites, in most cases enter from the ground and start eating their way up. Not knowing what the condition of the rim joist or the joist ends for that matter, all I can suggest is what I ...


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If the wall is not retaining any soil, why not just demo it, and erect another dividing fence? It doesn't need to be concrete block if it is not retaining any soil. Whose land is it on? Is it wholly on your land, or on your neighbour's land? In Australia, you must go halves in the cost of a new dividing fence. The kitchen that your neighbour built may have ...


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I don't believe that it's load bearing for these reasons. I can't provide 100% certainty, however. There's no indication in the attic that the walls transfer load to the roof framing. You have a very conventional hand-framed garage roof. They almost never have mid-span bearing points unless there's a beam down the center. Bearing walls in the middle of a ...


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The other answers are probably better, but tiny toggle bolts are another option.


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Warning - Dirty Hacks A short term fix is to undo the metal screws holding the plastic threadded "screws" to the front plate. Then add some matches (sans heads) or toothpicks into the two screw-holes in the plasterboard and gently tighten the chunky nylon retainers into them, and then reassemble. It might work until the next time the cable is ...


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The proper way to fix this is to install it the way it should have been installed in the first place, with a box eliminator, a.k.a. low-voltage bracket: There are many varieties. I usually use something similar to the above picture. You cut a hole with a drywall saw: using the box eliminator as a template. You want a really snug fit. Then you put in the ...


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