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1

Yes, pictures are good to support your questions. Depending on valve, sometimes you need a special tool. But yes, post pictures. You may require to pull hard on valve or tap, depending on how it’s grip better. Due to water hardness valve can be stuck hard.


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The green arrow shows the direction to turn to close it. The purple arrow shows the packing nut discussed in the comments. I'm not sure what you mean about North, South, etc but if this thing is installed in the ceiling with the red handle pointing up, you could stand directly below it, reach up and over it with your hand to grab it from above, then turn ...


2

It is a sweated valve with a screw on attachment for the toilet connection. Rather than try to remove it, I'd buy a second one; they are typically quite cheap. With a helper available, use a giant wrench to try and break the valve free. If the valve breaks, turn off the water; if it moves, great. If it doesn't break free, take the handle off and then take ...


1

Is this a sweat or threaded valve? It is difficult to determine if the pipe is galvanized or copper that has been painted silver. Threaded for the former, sweated for the latter. I bet on sweated copper as i see a drop of what looks like solder just under the valve on the pipe. Plus i do not see any threads under the valve as you would typically see with ...


0

The reason to pull a vacuum 0n an A/C system is not just to remove the air. The real reason to pull a vacuum on the system is to yes, remove the air, but is also to remove any moisture that will get into the system when the lines are cut and the removed compressor is exposed to the atmosphere. What you are trying to do has some merit but in no way is the ...


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Yes a refrigerator compressor can pull a vacuum but it may not last long because as you reach a vacuum there is no air to transfer the heat away from the windings. The heat buildup and motor failure this is something taught in hvac training when you pump Down a system using its own compressor. you don’t run it at a vacuum or you will smoke the compressor ...


2

What if, instead of hacking a valve to do something it shouldn't, you put a diaphragm (pressure reducer) inline with the lower waterfall feed, and adjust until you get the desired relative flow rates?


4

A "globe valve" would be more suitable for the task. Both ball valves and gate valves are intended primarily for shutoff - either fully open, or fully closed. A likely noise source is cavitation (bubbles forming and then collapsing) at the sharp edges in the flow when partially open. A gate valve has a plate with a (relatively) sharp edge that will ...


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