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Wow, it seems that the rubber seal (seat) is not being fully pressed down (or not staying fully down) in its proper position on top of the spring. Make sure that the spring is right-side up (narrow end up) and that the retainer nut is fully tightened, to hold the stem all the way down. Secret tip- use plumber's grease (petroleum jelly, in a pinch) to ...


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The valve at the wall may not be the problem at all even though it was stiff. I have on quite a few occasions found water supply lines for refrigerators and ice machines connected using a saddle valve the type that you strap around a pipe and it punches a hole in the pipe, this is where I find the problem much of the time the tiny opening gets blocked or ...


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It is not uncommon for these small valves to fail in various ways. You need to trace the line back to its source and find a valve that shuts down the whole line so you can repair/replace the valve that failed, even if this means shutting water off to the whole house. It is well for you to know where the source is and how to shut the line down from upstream ...


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It's difficult for me to imagine that these valves are truly intended to operate in the "full bore" and "trickle" modes you described. I think it's more likely that the "trickle" mode is actually a malfunction. After reading a little about the differences in operation between direct-acting solenoid valves and pilot-operated ...


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FIXED! The problem was these little buggers inside the shark bites. Don’t know why the handy man use shark bite instead of soldering, but those little plastic bits were restricting the flow enough to shoot everything right up to the shower. Removed them, replaced everything, now the tub works as it should. Holy smokes!


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I ran into this problem recently and found this thread while looking for a solution. In my case it turned out I had swapped the hot and cold handles (they aren't labeled). The taps turned correctly after I swapped


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