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1

It is possible to buy special 'freezer packs' that are designed to fit round pipework, with the intention of locally freezing the contents of the pipe, causing a temporary blockage. Having said that, I would be rather wary of using them, (and have never done so) as the result if you get it wrong would be some catastrophic and messy flooding.


0

An electric impact wrench worked wonders for me!!


8

Heating systems can vary by region. I have answered this from a UK perspective as you appear to have bought from B&Q. If the broken part is the white thermostatic cap, then it would be much easier to find a compatible replacement to avoid having to change the valve body. The cap can be removed by undoing the knurled ring directly below it, finger force ...


12

You need to drain the water from the heating system, effect the remove and replace, then refill the heating system. Some circulating-water heating systems are filled with tap water from the home's water supply, while others are isolated from the water supply plumbing and are filled with some other liquid. My experience is entirely with the most common tap ...


1

That's a sweat-on valve, you should be able to remove it by heating with a torch until the solder is melted and then pull it off with a twisting motion with a pair a pliers. Clean up the end of the pipe with some steel wool and/or sandpaper and re-sweat a new one in its place. I would use a ball valve here instead of this style but either will do the job. ...


3

Closing the inside main valve to your house should do the trick. If you haven't operated the main valve regularly do so with caution because gate valves are noted for failing when you close them. After doing so, check any faucet to verify the water has been shut off. If you live in a freezing climate you probably have an inside shutoff valve close to the ...


1

From the side view I can see it has a packing nut. Who ever originally installed the valve should have known to check the packing nut to be sure it was tight. You can probably remove and clean the handle with a wire brush and also tighten the packing nut under the handle. Check the valve in a couple days for moisture. If there is moisture the valve should be ...


1

The iron handle is rusting. The actual valve and stem it is on is brass and not rusting. It replaces the way you mention in comment.


2

The cadmium ( possibly zinc) coating has corroded off the steel handle ; this was caused by being wet. It should be easy enough to replace the handle although you may need to buy a similar valve just to get a handle . To clean the rust and coat the old handle you will need to remove the handle anyway. By taking the old handle with you to a store , you should ...


3

You can replace the handle but you've probably have to take it off a new valve that you'd buy. No reason to do that though, just wire brush the valve and throw a little rust remover on it. That's the main shutoff and there could have been a leak above it ,maybe on another faucet, that just ran down the pipe before or after the insulation was added. So clean ...


0

I know this is a year later, but I finally got around to getting this addressed. I decided to service my water heater - drain the tank, replace the anode rod, and replace the check valve. Sure enough, the inside of the valve was gummed up, with the little disc stuck in the open position. This most likely explains why our tub could get "warm" water instead of ...


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