106

Move the hole. You know its in a bad place. If you break the pipe with your flag pole you will curse your own stupidity and hate the flag pole and that is how bad things start. If you do get away with it then someday in the future someone will try to remove the flagpole and break the concrete, and they will drive the concrete into the PVC and then track ...


31

Never, ever, mess with any pipe underground. No matter if it is any kind of plastic, steel, brass, copper, ceramic, concrete, whatever. No matter if it is used for sewer, water, gas, electricity, Internet connection or underground smuggling of rocket parts (it happens!) or vodka (it happens, as well). Pipes sometimes break after a while even when left alone, ...


22

You can't actually use indoor wire underground. The wire or cable will get wet, will degrade, leak, and do really strange things like electrify the ground. There is nothing you can do to keep conduit dry. It will get wet. In legit conduit, normally you use individual wires (THHN). Almost all THHN is dual-rated THWN-2 for outdoor use! Same wire - that ...


22

Utilities, as a rule, are delighted to come out any time and mark locations. They would much rather avoid a problem instead of having to deal with an outage. If they need to come out again, e.g. because the paint weathers away, they'll do that.


18

Stainless steel is the obvious choice. Which exact grade is probably more dependent on what you can easily find than what the "most perfect for the job" grade might be, but 316 or 316L would be high on the list and are quite commonly available. Be very careful about ventilating the tank if entering it "for maintenance" - tanks can be deadly. If the water ...


16

This is a normal thing to do. In my state, for example, the utilities must have been located within a certain number of days of digging. They are also happy to mark utilities for just project planning, or just to refresh existing markings. In fact, all of these are typically options you can select when you call in the locate ticket (or put it in on a website)...


11

Cable The cable you're looking for is Type UF, or Underground Feeder cable. It can be purchased at big orange, and big blue, by the foot. It's available in 6/2, 6/2 with ground, 6/3, and 6/3 with ground, and is rated for direct burial. Attachment to Service There is one temporary, and two permanent ways to supply power to a park trailer. Temporary Power-...


11

TL;DR You shouldn't do that. If for no other reason then consider this simple fact. If that pole gets knocked over via wind or a rogue vehicle then the concrete will tilt and puncture a hole in the PVC. Now you have two problems.


10

You didn't indicate your location or site characteristics (slope, hillside, etc), but the location of the country, even generally could be helpful, but not required. You indicated the water bill was not high, so it could not be a water leak. That would only be if the leak was after the meter. However, the leak could be before the meter and impossible to ...


10

It appears to be COAX cable and it's almost certainly your (or your neighbors) CATV (i.e. Cable TV) line. These are often placed near trees and they get pushed up as the tree grows. That one is very exposed. I'd put in a service call to my provider and request it be buried properly.


9

Check with your utility to see if they have a program to bury your service line. My company (FPL) has a program where they will give you the conduit to bury along with instructions. Once everything is set up and meets their standards, they will bring the lines down the pole for you. There is a fee, of course. For FPL in my area, it would cost around $580 ...


9

Once you know where the utilities are located then you know where the utilities are located. After they mark the ground with paint you can put a stake or a flag there so that if the marking paint gets washed away you still know the locations. If in the time between the locate service and the time you are ready to dig, other utilities are added, you will ...


8

I've used a sawzall type reciprocating saw with the 14" long demolition style blades for similar type wood removal in the ground. Be prepared to replace the blade a few times as cutting into dirt can mess up the teeth after a while. With the saw like this you should be able to cut completely through the old timber without having to do any chiseling in ...


7

It would be quite unusual that utility location would entirely prevent you placing the fence where you want it. More likely is that proximity of utilities could require several fence holes to be dug by hand rather than machine. It's possible, but unlikely, that you could have to slightly adjust a fence post location after hand-digging reveals it exactly ...


6

The National Electrical Code does not list a minimum cover requirement for communications circuits, so in theory you could put the conduit at grade level. Irrigation control and landscape lighting has a minimum cover requirement of 6" (150 mm), so I'd probably go with that as a basis. Since you're not specific about the electric power circuit, I'll ...


6

To add a bit to the question from Pavel in the comments of Ecnerwals answer: Stainless steel structures in swimming pools are known to be prone to SCC. The use of standard austenitic stainless steels like 304 and 316 is forbidden in this application. The best steels to use for this purpose are the high nickel austenitic steels such as the 6% Mo grades. ...


6

I see you are from New York. You must call 811 48 hours and up to 10 days before you dig an inch on your property. Unless you know where every wire or service is buried on your property and how deep, if you don't "call before you dig" and damage any utility or service, you will be required to pay for repairs (seen or happen and the repair wasn't ...


5

"Black polyethylene" seems to commonly refer to HDPE pipe, which is pretty comparable to PEX. "Just" PE pipe is cheaper and less durable than HDPE - I'd advise against that underground. PEXa ("Uponor/Wirsbo", "ProPEX", "F1960") is the best option, especially underground and in places with a potential for freezing, since it simply expands and contracts ...


5

Definitely run the largest conduit you can obtain across the driveway. Possibly two or three or four parallel runs -- you don't know if you will eventually want to use one for low-voltage cabling, another to pass a water pipe through, etc. PVC conduit holds up very well underground and is relatively cheap even in large diameters. You can put conduit ...


5

Sure, you can...but as far as whether you should then no. I know its probably not what you're thinking of at the moment but in the future, among other problems, someone digging around in the garden and spotting a buried garden hose might not think of it holding electrical cables. I'd recommend twin walled cable ducting, its not overly expensive and better ...


4

Is there a simple, definitive answer to this? Yes It may seem more convenient to install the wire as you go in a very few cases but the National Electrical Code prohibits it and is quite clear. From the 2017 NEC: 300.18 Raceway Installations. (A) Complete Runs. Raceways, other than busways or exposed raceways having hinged or removable covers, shall be ...


4

Rather than "hose in pipe", use 200 PSI (if you want the tough stuff) black polyethylene pipe, and appropriate fittings, and no hose inside it. (Or schedule 80 pipe as suggested in comments, but IMPE black poly will take more abuse without leaking, and it's sun-resistant, for where it comes out of the ground.) For extra crush protection, butt it up ...


4

I would move the flagpole to a different location so you do not disturb that PVC pipe. Also, I would contact the sewer company and ask how deep their piping is since most sewer piping is much deeper than 16". That PVC pipe may be for something else.


3

You can use most types of conduit outdoors, though some will require liquidtight fittings. Cost wise, and due to the ease of use, I'd recommend schedule 80 PVC conduit. schedule 80 PVC conduit http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/636554_front500.jpg As long as you use the proper size conduit and boxes, you can indeed run all the circuits through ...


3

The very likely outcome will be that the structural engineer will go away to do the necessary calculations, specify the requirement for the underpinning to be carried out by a contractor, and the tree will be converted to firewood (tree preservation order permitting). The underpinning will be carried out and leave the building stronger than it was before. ...


3

It turned out to be abandoned electrical. Photos below (cell phone for scale) DigSafe came out and confirmed it was not a City service (gas, hydro, transit, water, etc.) They checked out the line and agreed it was strange it was so shallow; definitely not one of theirs. So we excavated a little more and eventually realized it is not a pipe, but a sheathed ...


3

Do you really need to remove it? If this is in a mild climate, you could simply place the deck pier on top of it and secure it, perhaps by drilling into the tie and attaching with spikes, cable, etc. to get more stability. If the frost level is mid-tie, I think that having the tie partially below frost level is good enough to ensure stability. Otherwise, ...


3

Absolutely not. Underground rating presumes physical protection by the surrounding earth. Undersea cable is designed to be laid on the sea floor. You may have other threats like water-moved rocks, or the footfalls of people or animals that even undersea cable is not made to deal with. There might be no cable rated for that duty. If the cable is ...


3

The National Electrical Code has code explaining how to protect direct-buried broadband communications cables. However, they also provide an exception to that code, that allows cable companies to basically provide the cable no physical protection at all. In the NEC you'll notice 830.47(C), which provides adequate protection to the buried cable. National ...


3

Put your own ground in at the pole Tapping the PoCo's ground conductor like that is probably a good way to get on bad terms with the power company, who sound like pretty swell folks so far. Instead, I'd use a 6AWG copper wire of my own to my own ground rod driven 8' into the ground at the pole (or some other sort of ground electrode, depending on what soil ...


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