New answers tagged

0

Fill the gap with a plug at the space between the stair stringer and wall (2nd photo: where the floor molding disappears). Or cap the beveled end of the stair stringer with 3/4" pine with the stringers profile. If that gap is closed the floor molding will butt against it. Than the quarter round can be terminated with a face bevel right equal with the ...


1

You won't be able to operate your existing cartridge in a lifting up or down, back and forth motion to start or stop the flow of water. Your cartridge's motion is strictly in and out on a straight plane. It will rotate clockwise and counter clockwise to adjust the temperature. If you did find a handle that fit, you'd have to pull the handle straight out to ...


10

If that leg can be unscrewed and moved over 1/2 inch, that would be my first choice. If not, then I'd get a coping saw and cut the leg to fit the trim.


-1

I would cut the trim back a little so it ends just before the leg. It shouldn't look too bad, especially if it isn't in an obvious place for the eye to notice.


1

Most plank floors require an expansion gap to allow for the boards expansion and contraction. Depending on the type of floor installed (solid.veneered,etc.) the expansion gap will be prescribed by the manufacturer. Usually 3/8- 1/2 inch around the floor perimeter. The size of the gap is such that standard floor molding can span this gap so it is not seen. It'...


1

The gap is no different than before assuming the original install was good. Is this going over another floor or stripped down to the subfloor? You can use a backer rod stuffed into the back of the gap but generally you do not caulk the floor to the baseboard/shoe molding to allow for expansion and contraction of the floor


Top 50 recent answers are included