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5

Your run-of-the-mill reducer should do the job. This type usually comes with a steel channel that you'd anchor to the concrete, then you simply tap the piece in place.


5

Solid hardwood is a tough one because unlike the other materials, it expands and shrinks. Laminate and especially engineered hardwoods with a plywood core are much more stable, but they will still expand and shrink a little bit. Certainly more than tile! I'm in the middle of installing plywood core engineered hardwood in my own house and I have tile ...


5

I had the exact same issue after I took a wall out: tile to hardwood. I cut one side with a rip saw and the other side with a wet tile hand-held saw (to keep the dust down). I used an 8 inch wide piece of oak. I stained it to match the floor and then used it as a guide to cut the other side so that it would drop in perfectly. The picture below is after I ...


4

I was only going to post a comment, since both members covered tile transitions, but I seen that the laminate floor transition has not been addressed. I will also throw my 2 cents on the tile transition too. The transition to the tile to wood has been well answered by both members above. Ecnerwal eluded to what I will mention. The joint between the tile ...


4

In some homes, I have seen marble transitions used, even on elevation changes between flooring types. It embraces the functionality of the transition piece, instead of trying to hide it.


4

I would imagine it's a matter of preference, but IMO the transition is part of the floor and the baseboard is part of the wall. Given that the transition will blend in with the floor, I'd be inclined to put the baseboards on first and then cut the transition to fit. It's also generally simpler to cut something to length than it is to notch something ...


4

I note that you asked for the Netherlands. Usually wires run vertical in the walls, but sometimes they can run under an angle too. Same thing for ceilings, they run parallel to the wall, but not always. And if you live in an "upstairs" you never know what's in your floor. Typically drilling 1cm or maybe 2cm deep is not an issue for wires, but this ...


3

If this was an interior door I would say just live with it but since it is an exterior door I think you need to have it reinstalled. Issues: The biggest is that the threshold should be at most a minimal bump to your house. This is just odd and a tripping hazard. There is really no way to fix this. You in theory could cut off the head of the threshold ...


3

I know this is an old question, but here's what I did: (1) drill holes in the concrete. Yes, this is a PITA, but with the right bit it is not too bad. The holes do not need to be huge, nor do they need to be deep if you use the right screws. (2) Use the right screws. The ones I used are from a standard Big Box store, and are specifically designed for ...


3

The metal edge you see is a Schluter trim that installs under the tile. The expansion rate changes radically based on the climate you're in--drier climates tend to shrink more. Regardless of where you live you should have done moisture tests on the wood, the subfloor and the air in the home. Relative humidity is ideal between 30/ 55% in most cases and for ...


3

Firstly, note that the cuts on two adjoining pieces should have the same angle, but in the opposite direction. Failure to do this will result in something like you've shown us here, with points sticking out and part of the cut end exposed. That's just not good at all. Secondly, each joint should pass exactly over the corner in the flooring. This doesn't ...


3

There is no right or wrong answer to this as it depends on personal preference. If it were me I would strongly consider not using a transition strip, to remove an additional element which would require extra work to install and maintain. A simple grout joint between the two tile types would probably be fine.


2

I have done transitions that just consist of an extremely clean edge, with surface heights matched. In my case I was butting tile to solid-wood parquet, so the actual wood movement is very limited. Likewise, most solid hardwod floors will (unless laid very tightly, very dry) simply open and close gaps between boards (one reason narrow boards are more common -...


2

One way to address this problem is to acquire a lower door threshold seal unit that slides onto the bottom of the door and is adjustable by sliding up and down to the threshold. They are then fixed into place using screws through the side flanges into the lower rail of the door. Here is a picture of what the product looks like. They are sized to the ...


2

Find a custom wood molding shop in your area (there will be one) and have them custom bevel a piece of 1 1/4" oak in a width that suits your fancy, then stain and varnish it. It will be more easily accomplished than you think, and the custom milling charge you will pay will be worth every penny. I might just butt a narrow piece of 1 1/4" oak right up to the ...


2

I created mockups of a few different configurations and decided that I liked the look of the following the best. I created a 45°(an opposite cut of my original example cut; sorry I don't know the correct terminology), and created a "return" that was at the opposite 45° and cut 90° to butt up against the wall. I liked this option because it left no grain ...


2

If you choose to use plywood, go with the 3/4" T&G for the layer under the carpet. The trough were the heat pipes used to be can be spanned by the 3/4" plywood too. Also since the carpet compresses under foot, keep the plywood below the hardwood layer about 3/8" or so lower. That way when you step there, the transition will feel level.


2

I’d try keeping them flush, you’ll have expansion allowance on both floors anyway. Just think of it as one floor with expansion gap around the perimeter. Which it will be effectively


2

Option 1: Replace with another marble transition Marble transitions are still sold. Replacing a broken one with another would preserve the original look of your floor. However, marble isn't the most durable material to make a transition out of, and it may look out of place if it's the only marble thing in the area. They're also kind of clunky because of ...


2

As noted above you should be able to find a wooden transition piece that would be large enough. The box stores may not carry such a large piece in stock but I'd be surprised if you couldn't find one online somewhere. Another option is to make a wooden transition piece yourself by taking something a 1x4 board and beveling the edges using a table saw, then ...


2

The better way is to extend the door side casing trim to the floor surface. Ideally that would involve removing the old paint covered trim and replacing with a new longer piece. The alternative, as you propose, to run the base shoe molding under a foreshortened casing is not going to look too great as there will still be an ugly gap due to the rounded top ...


2

I would still do a takeoff on Michael Karas's answer about extending the door jamb and trim to the floor. I had the same situation where a new floor was installed with a much thinner material than original, so I had many gaps around the bottoms of door trim that had to be remedied. I used a small piece of three-quarter inch wood to serve as a gauge block and ...


2

To do it properly you're going to have to pull up that aluminum door sill to see what's going on underneath. It appears that water has been seeping under the door sill from the outside and has rotted part or all of the underlying door frame. It's also possible that the water is coming in along the perimeter jambs and seeping down to the sill. To remove the ...


2

If you happen to have a double-layer subfloor, remove the top layer and build back up under the tread using material of appropriate thickness. Otherwise I would make the top tread thinner where it laps over the subfloor. You can do this a couple ways. Either use a hand planer and take multiple passes, or use a tablesaw or circular saw, shifting the fence 1/...


2

In all the stairs that I finished, which are a good number of them, I have never used a full tread at the top of set of stairs (sorry Ecnerwal...) where a landing nosing has always been used in the past by thousands of other carpenters over the centuries. In the past the landing nose was only 3 1/2" wide, but nowadays they are available 5 1/2" or 5 1/4" ...


2

Schluter makes a number of transition metal pieces that work seamlessly and permanently but some need to be embedded under the last row of tile in the thinset. Some examples: Schluter Reno-T is metal, can be glued to the tile side, and doesn't require tile to be lifted though works only for same height. Schluter Reno-V is adjustable to accommodate different ...


2

If I decide to use the THHN wire, once the PVC conduit reaches the inside of the house, can I transition to Romex, or do I need to continue to use PVC up to the breaker box? And how will I be doing the transition? A junction box? Definitely use THHN. Actually THWN, but wire is commonly dual rated THHN/THWN. You can't use Romex because it isn't rated for ...


1

Usual practice is to bridge the gap with a slightly raised threshold board, sloped on one of both sides, rabbeted underneath to account for the higher floor. I have two such in sight right now.


1

A silver carpet strip should do nicely there.


1

The pressure in the 1-1/4" pipe is EXACTLY THE SAME as the pressure in the 3/4" pipe. That is true whether you stick 15 transitions or one in there. You evidently made a bad joint - perhaps the pipe was wet, perhaps you used old glue that was going bad, perhaps you failed to twist and shove and hold in for a minute. If there will be a problem with ...


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