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It does sound like the valve and/or solenoid is bad. You measured 27 volts, but that's only about 10% above the specified value, which is pretty close for a random transformer. The voltage will likely sag as you approach the rated current draw from the transformer, but even if it doesn't that's pretty close.


I was able to get the system working by switching the thermostat from 2h/1c Heat Pump mode to 2h/2c Conventional Heat mode. The Honeywell's 2h/1c heat pump mode didn't support 2 transformers (and there wasn't a 2h/1c mode of any sort that did). I had to swap the Y and the W wires on the thermostat (since it was set up that cool controls O/B which is ...


If the transformer doesn’t have an internal fuse you need to add one because the fault current of the transformer is less than the breaker protecting the wiring. Having been an fireman I have seen numerous houses burn down because of small transformer.


Do not replace the junction box. It is a standard junction box and there is nothing wrong with it. Backstab connections fail more often than transformers Look at the receptacle. See how the wires are connected? They're "back wired" with a backstab style connection. That is only allowed for 14 AWG solid wire, the receptacle's labeling plainly says ...


First turn off the power. The trick is to hold on to a wire and twist the outlet back and forth while pulling the wire. You will see the wire start to remove from the outlet. You will want to remove all the wires except for the ground. Use the screw terminals when reconnecting the outlet. Bend a hook around the black hot wire and screw it in to the outlet on ...


If you look very closely you will see a small rectangular slot adjacent to each wire "stab in" hole. A thin tool, such as a small slotted screwdriver (or even a thick paper clip) can be inserted there to release the wires. Those "stab in" wire connections are notoriously lame; I would recommend that when you wire up the new transformer you use a single wire ...

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