11

Don't worry about it Breakers have a certain latitude to them, and can run slightly above rating for a short time. That provides for motor starting and short term overloads. You're not supposed to plan to overload anyway You should be provisioning power for 125% of what you expect to actually draw. So if you plan for 6800 VA of actual load, you should ...


4

That's to be expected. The neutral from the circuit is going through the GFCI breaker, but the hot is coming from the generator. The GFCI sees this as an imbalance, since there's no current flowing through the hot side of the breaker. Here's what your setup likely looks like (if it was drawn really quickly in MSPaint). If you follow the current through ...


4

Connecting 2 different generators that can not be synced will cause disaster to the wiring and the smaller or cheaper generator if any 240v loads are connected. Using a common neutral you are taking a risk even with only 120v loads. With separate transfers and loads as separately derived systems could be legal but I don't think so with a common neutral.


4

There can only be one point in the system where neutral and ground wires are joined, and this is usually in the main panel. Therefore, you must lift the bond from the generator, or disconnect the ground wire from the generator to the transfer switch. If you lift the bond on the generator, you can run both ground and an insulated neutral back to the ...


3

Yeah, that's how you do that. A 200A main panel which contains a 100A feeder breaker to A xxxA subpanel via a 100A transfer switch. The 100A feeder breaker protects the transfer switch. Assuming you are not a fool, the subpanel is quite large (30-space +), and will surely be rated well over 100A. It will be able to operate safely downline from a ...


3

No, you can't do that A 100A manual transfer panel has a 100A breaker for the utility-side input; as a result, it would be a "bottleneck" if you put it inline with your service, restricting the whole service to 100A. However, this does not mean that you have the wrong transfer switch, so do not go running back to the store before you read the rest of this ...


3

For a generator of that size, the primary connection would not be through those convenience outlets, but rather directly to lugs sized for the cables required. If this wasn't the primary use of the generator, and you wanted an easily detachable connection, and 50 amps was sufficient, then you could use the 4-conductor receptacle with a cable. Your model ...


3

You have two choices. 1) Remove the jumper on the generator, and connect it to the transfer switch as you had planned. But have to put the jumper back on if you ever want to use the generator separately. You also have to hard wire the neutral through the transfer switch. or 2) You can leave the jumper on the generator, drive a separate ground rod for the ...


3

Many generators (especially those for permanent installation) have optional automatic transfer switch assemblies. If the backup generator is permanently installed, then I'd recommend buying its recommended transfer switch. Wire it per its instructions. If you're going to build your own transfer switch, then make sure that it is "break before make" or has ...


3

It sounds like the winds knocked one leg of your service down in a way that kept your inverter from powering up the dead leg -- most inverters are line-interactive, and won't feed into a dead or partially dead system to avoid desynchronization problems (i.e. feeding AC of the wrong frequency to some devices may make them work improperly due to internal ...


2

I will join longneck, you need to give to give this one to a pro. If you do not understand about back-feeding a circuit, already, it is too easy to kill someone. I say this without exaggeration. The biggest problem with running a generator with a transfer switch is that you have to wire it into your main panel. For basic protection of life, (as well as ...


2

No. The wiring and the breaker are sized for the needs of a single dryer. To connect several would create a situation where overload is likely, or at least a possibility. A possible workaround, with questions of legality outstanding, would be to install a lockout mechanism or switch that would prevent simultaneous use of both dryers.


2

A DPDT air conditioning relay should do the trick House 2 is connected by default. When House 1 calls for water, it "takes over" and powers the well itself. Air conditioning relays are rated at 30A and are rated to start motors. It's a 2-pole relay, and it switches both hots, but not ground. This setup must not use neutral: if it does, get a 3-pole ...


2

You can tap this What you want to do here is replace the existing set of 3-way splice connectors that tap the feeder for the surge protector with 4-ways, and then use the newly opened connector-ports to run a feeder up to the transfer switch. You're fine on size The reason why the existing feeder is 2AWG is because it's copper most likely -- 2AWG copper ...


2

You can't put GFCI, AFCI or MWBC circuits on transfer switches. I'm referring to the flimsy 6, 8 or 10 circuit switches that let you flip each circuit to utility or gen individually. And you have both GFCI and MWBC. So, yeah, not gonna happen. That panel should have never been recommended to you. Unfortunately generator salesmen recommend that type ...


1

Wow, the price of that transfer switch, and it doesn't even switch neutral. That's typical Reliance, mid-tier yet high price because they know it's for a generator. Oh, hold on. You haven't solved the neutral problem. You need to either switch neutral, isolate neutral and ground on the generator (you can't have two neutral-ground bonds in the system), ...


1

Here's the better way to do a "transfer switch" A lot of transfer switch products are designed to "bolt on" to your existing panels. They are expensive, add a lot of spaghetti or both. No thanks. I prefer reliable Tier 1 service equipment suppliers, the kind big companies like Google or Ford use when their power matters. Here we use Siemens. If you're ...


1

The floating neutral is good news, but you don't need a ground rod for this The fact that your generator has a floating neutral is actually quite fortunate for you, as breaker-interlock-based transfer setups are largely incompatible with generators that have bonded neutrals (the more common case). However, since you're plugging your generator into your ...


1

Ground wires between boxes can be solid or stranded. Most likely in wires this big, they will be stranded. Grounds must be colored bare, green, or green/yellow. Those three "colors" are reserved for ground.


1

That is the right way to do it! A transfer switch to an ordinary subpanel. Remember to separate neutral and ground at all points. You would use a 100A breaker. The 100A is at 240V, so you could put 80A of 240V heaters onto that breaker/sub. (because you must derate heater loads by 20%). At 120V it is good for both legs. That is, with 120V loads, you ...


1

You're just as well off trenching in a conduit The rub with what you're describing is that you'd have to switch both ends of the feeder cable to make it work, with all the logic based on the presence of utility power at the main house end. As a result of the extra control wiring that would likely be needed to control the shed-end switching, you are just as ...


1

You have the wrong tool for the job here The fact you have standby circuits split across the two panels means you can't use the transfer switch you have, or really any "select circuit" type of transfer switch for that matter. In fact, installing your current transfer switch would lead to a Code violation, in particular of the rules in 300.3(B) and 310.10(H)...


1

1000A is the breaking capacity of the circuit breakers, 30A is the carrying capacity of the wiring. So, you must not have more than 30A of active loads on or connect a generator of more than 1000A What generator is appropriate? more than 30A (7.5KVA, 12HP etc) would be a waste unless you have other loads to also connect to it


1

TLDR: Any Honda generator will be safe, but if the gen is larger than about 7200W it will need a 30A breaker on the supply socket. You will probably want all of 7000W based on the loads you named so far, but what loads you serve with this is up to you. Clever choices could reduce generator need. The switch's labeling says 30A capacity. That looks like a ...


1

As isherwood says, "No". On a circuit that traditionally drives one single appliance, it violates Code to rely on citizens to use a procedure to avoid overloading it.** Overload protection is by no means perfect, and you can't rely on the 30A circuit breaker to enforce "don't use simultaneously". You could do it with a latching relay. I would wire the ...


1

Well, from the tests you ran (see comments above), your setup is correct. The Kill A Watt EZ should show a reasonable reading, BUT it appears that that kind of device requires balanced current. So, because the furnace neutral current is not flowing through the Kill A Watt, it does not compute a valid power based on the current and voltage it does see. (Note ...


1

I believe the correct type of NEMA power plug and socket will do everything you want. The well gets a plug (and optionally a switch), and the generators and panel service provide a socket. You have to plug them manually of course, but the system is effective, inexpensive and most important, easy to understand.


1

What about something simple, e.g. sticking a voltage controlled DPDT relay onto your hot water heater element and auto-shunting it between solar power and grid power? Your water may be a little cool in the morning, but this would take a significant base load off your system, without requiring massive renovations or getting your utility involved.


1

Sounds like a totally custom system that you will have to design and implement yourself. If I lived in AZ I might be tempted to install a solar water heater tied to the existing water heaters to start with. Keeps you from having to backfeed the grid and get crossways with your utility. Another thought is to add solar panels tied through MPPT's to secondary ...


1

Not sure about the wind issue. However, checking connections at box for corrosion and having power company check voltage are good places to start. Something similar happened to me. Very odd to have partial outage in house and no breakers tripped. Called power company to check voltage. In the meantime, I decided to shut off power at meter, yank breaker ...


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