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PLIERS Used as pliers. Stripper 80 - 22/20 Strip 22-20 AWG (.8 mm) wire. 1.0 - 18 Strip 18 AWG (1.0 mm) wire. 1.3 - 16 Strip 16 AWG (1.3 mm) wire. 1.6 - 14 Strip 14 AWG (1.6 mm) wire. 2.0 - 12 Strip 12 AWG (2.0 mm) wire. 1.6 - 10 Strip 10 AWG (2.6 mm) wire. CUT Used to cut wires and cables. LOOP The loop hole is used to bend hooks in wires, ...


The holes in the center are bolt cutters for metric bolts, the loop hole is to help you make loops in wire, see this link for an example of loop usage.


It's a bit for screwing in eye bolts, or hooks. Attach the bit to your driver handle or power driver. Fit the eye bolt into the groove. Screw the bolt in/out, without hurting your fingers. The list of bits in this set, lists it as a "Y-shape hook driver".


It's useful when using the level in the vertical direction (to e.g., check studs for plumb-ness) so that the bubble is at or near eye level no matter which end is up.


Here are some charts from Bolt Depot. Bolt Depot is a handy resource, and has lots of information about all different types of fasteners. Pilot hole size: Wood Screw Diameter: ****Major thread diameter** is measured on the outside of the threads.*


For a spirit level to work the tube cannot be perfectly straight and of constant diameter. For the bubble to float towards the middle either the tube curves up towards the middle (a "block vial") or it has greater diameter towards the middle (a "barrel vial"). If it is curved up towards the middle - the cheapest alternative - it won't work upside down. In ...


According to an ozzie web site, it's a non-flint electronic spark lighter.


A real simple technique I use is to hold up the drill bit and the screw. Hold the shaft of the drill bit up in front of the screw. You should only be able to see the threads of the screw (and maybe a bit of the screw). If you can't see the threads the drill bit is too big. If you can see too much of the screw, the bit is too small. I hope this helps!


The top tools appear to be dies - used for cutting screw threads on rods. The lower tool appears to be a tap wrench (a tap is a tool a little like a drill bit, but used for cutting threads inside a hole). The "winding and unwinding" action is to allow it to clamp to the tap; the wrench is then used to turn the tap in the hole. The dies would also have had ...


Sorry, but that is nothing more than a stripped out Phillips screw. I'd say drilling it out is your easiest bet.


The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers. The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the ...


Shopping sprees are counterproductive There isn't a Great Depression coming up, and this isn't an expedition to Mars. Buy what you need... when you need it. As far as circular saws, I can't remember the last time I used one or even missed having one. I think their danger:utility ratio is pretty poor. What I've found indispensable, however, is a ...


A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00


This is a driver set. It includes a handle (the green item), several bits (lower left) and several sockets (upper left). The long items in the lower middle is an extender. One of the items in the bit tray is an adapter to allow the handle to accomodate the sockets. The bits make it a multi purpose screwdriver. The sockets make it a nut driver.


Die for creating sheetmetal hemispheres. There should be a set of punches with round ball ends somewhere in that mix, unless someone misused them for something else or lost them. Doming Block and Punch Set is one term for the tool set. The die is also called a dapping block. You can find them at jewelry tool suppliers.


The SDS chuck system was the original developed by Bosch. SDS Plus is an improvement on the original SDS system, but remains compatible with SDS bits, and is now the most commonly seen on the market. SDS Max is designed for the heaviest masonry work, and is incompatible with SDS/SDS+ bits. (source:


If you can use a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive a screw, then most of the time, use it. Here's when you might be smarter to use a screwdriver: The screw is going into a pre-tapped (threaded) hole in metal, or plastic, or any soft material. Always at least start such screws by hand -- so that you can avoid cross-threading them. Putting screws into ...


I think what you need is a Palm Nailer. You can get these in air or electric powered versions. They are compact and are handy to drive nails in tight spaces.


You should get yourself a socket wrench (also known as a ratchet):


This is just an Allen driver bit - you use it with a detachable head screwdriver.


Acid cell and Alkaline Batteries function by a process of controlled corrosion of two different elements which creates a voltage potential and a current if the circuit is completed. This process is in continuous motion from the day of manufacture, while it sits on the shelf in its packaging, while installed in the equipment during off/idle periods. It ...


While I don't use hand tools much, I certainly own a lot of hand tools. This happens when you sell them all day. Norm Abram at This Old House provides some pretty good tips on cleaning rust from tools. His tips, summarized: First, store tools in a dry drawer or toolbox. Use silica gel packets to keep this place even more dry. But once rust appears... ...


There are at least three different types of stud finders; unless you understand what they're doing to try to locate studs, their results may baffle you. Magnetic - these are a pitiful joke, but they were the only thing available when I was a kid. They don't sense the stud itself (unless you're in an office building that uses steel studs!), but rather the ...


I would caution against using any bolt cutters on the toilet hold down bolts. The reason being that they typically will apply a significant pressure against the porcelain base of the stool and crack or break it. Another thing to consider is that bolt cutters typically have a jaw profile as shown below. With this type of arrangement it is just not possible ...


Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a ...


You'll have a couple choices when replacing the handle, you can either get a good Hickory replacement handle like this, or a Fiberglass handle like this. Comparing handle types is beyond the scope of this answer. Either way the repair starts the same way, by removing the old axe head. This will likely be the most difficult part of the job, as the handle ...


If I recall my time in the scouts well enough, I'd suggest the following: a set of screw drivers an 8-10oz hammer a set of pliers a small chunk from a bar of cheap soap for coating screw threads a piece of chalk- both to use for marking things, but also to absorb moisture and prevent rust. a small framing square a retractable tape rule If you shop around ...


Bolt cutters are not really the best tool for cutting off rusted closet bolts. I usually use a "mini-hack" saw:


Same thing you use a Marlin Spike for. (Tapered steel rod with a mushroom head on one end to strike with a mallet or dead blow) It's an alignment tool for drilled holes in metal building frames. During assembly, the bolt holes don't necessarily line up, so you stick the tapered tail through the mating holes in the construction item, lever them around till ...


Use a router with a pattern bit or a pattern collar and a end-cutting (plunge) bit. Create a circular template route out the interior. You can adjust the depth very accurately and bottom of the depression should be pretty smooth.

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