It's a bit for screwing in eye bolts, or hooks.
Attach the bit to your driver handle or power driver.
Fit the eye bolt into the groove.
Screw the bolt in/out, without hurting your fingers.
The list of bits in this set, lists it as a "Y-shape hook driver".
This is exactly the purpose of a basin wrench
Here's a picture from familyhandyman.com that shows a basin wrench in action:
Note that as mentioned in another answer, you usually don't need to remove the faucet to replace the washers; but if you do need to remove the faucet for whatever reason - this is the tool.
For a spirit level to work the tube cannot be perfectly straight and of constant diameter. For the bubble to float towards the middle either the tube curves up towards the middle (a "block vial") or it has greater diameter towards the middle (a "barrel vial"). If it is curved up towards the middle - the cheapest alternative - it won't work upside down. In ...
Maybe I'm missing something here but why are you trying to take off those nuts? The washers for the valves are topside. You just have to remove the valve stems to expose and change the washers. If you wanted to replace the faucet, then you'd need to get these nuts off.
The top tools appear to be dies - used for cutting screw threads on rods. The lower tool appears to be a tap wrench (a tap is a tool a little like a drill bit, but used for cutting threads inside a hole). The "winding and unwinding" action is to allow it to clamp to the tap; the wrench is then used to turn the tap in the hole. The dies would also have had ...
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the ...
That is called a blind jack nut, jack nut, blind collapsing nut, etc.
They are typically used when you don't have access to and/or don't have the tools to hold onto a nut on the backside of whatever you're putting it into. As you turn the bolt the wedge will move along its length, moving into/out of the split nut which adds/removes force that pushes the ...
Shopping sprees are counterproductive
There isn't a Great Depression coming up, and this isn't an expedition to Mars.
Buy what you need... when you need it.
As far as circular saws, I can't remember the last time I used one or even missed having one. I think their danger:utility ratio is pretty poor. What I've found indispensable, however, is a ...
Impact drills are used in concrete and stone, with the appropriate drill bits, because they drill faster by causing micro fractures of the material surface and thus easier removal. The drill bits can get rather hot in the process.
It is still possible to drill holes in concrete with a regular plain rotary drill with the proper carbide tipped drill bits. It ...
Die for creating sheetmetal hemispheres. There should be a set of punches with round ball ends somewhere in that mix, unless someone misused them for something else or lost them.
Doming Block and Punch Set is one term for the tool set. The die is also called a dapping block. You can find them at jewelry tool suppliers.
Acid cell and Alkaline Batteries function by a process of controlled corrosion of two different elements which creates a voltage potential and a current if the circuit is completed.
This process is in continuous motion from the day of manufacture, while it sits on the shelf in its packaging, while installed in the equipment during off/idle periods. It ...
Long before impact drills were available to the residential customer usually due to their high cost, a novice or home owner could replicate the actions of a "hammer drill" by starting to drill a hole in concrete with a concrete bit and if gravel was encountered, a center punch was used to crack the gravel. At that point the drilling could continue.
I would caution against using any bolt cutters on the toilet hold down bolts. The reason being that they typically will apply a significant pressure against the porcelain base of the stool and crack or break it.
Another thing to consider is that bolt cutters typically have a jaw profile as shown below. With this type of arrangement it is just not possible ...
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a ...
It's called a spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head. Useful site here. Hard to find in the UK, why the owner used one I cannot imagine. Screwfix doesn't have them. This site may do, although it is international. You'll need to figure out the correct size before you order.
Alternatively get a real cheap flat-head screwdriver the right width and file ...
Same thing you use a Marlin Spike for. (Tapered steel rod with a mushroom head on one end to strike with a mallet or dead blow) It's an alignment tool for drilled holes in metal building frames.
During assembly, the bolt holes don't necessarily line up, so you stick the tapered tail through the mating holes in the construction item, lever them around till ...
Use a router with a pattern bit or a pattern collar and a end-cutting (plunge) bit.
Create a circular template route out the interior. You can adjust the depth very accurately and bottom of the depression should be pretty smooth.
If I recall my time in the scouts well enough, I'd suggest the following:
a set of screw drivers
an 8-10oz hammer
a set of pliers
a small chunk from a bar of cheap soap for coating screw threads
a piece of chalk- both to use for marking things, but also to absorb moisture and prevent rust.
a small framing square
a retractable tape rule
If you shop around ...
I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
Your assumption is incorrect. The impact is what does the drilling, like a micro-chisel, the rotation merely removes the dust, and ensures that the impacts create a circular hole. This is for concrete/brick.
Tile drill-bits are very different, and must not be used with any sort of hammer action (as it would crack the tile).
Drilling through any type of ...