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These appear to be snap-ring pliers. The pins at the nose go into the holes in the snap-ring, then you squeeze to compress the ring to release it from its groove, and flip the lock to hold the squeeze so the ring doesn't expand, rip the pliers from your hand and launch the ring to wherever it is that small parts go to die.


It's useful when using the level in the vertical direction (to e.g., check studs for plumb-ness) so that the bubble is at or near eye level no matter which end is up.


This is exactly the purpose of a basin wrench Here's a picture from that shows a basin wrench in action: Note that as mentioned in another answer, you usually don't need to remove the faucet to replace the washers; but if you do need to remove the faucet for whatever reason - this is the tool.


For a spirit level to work the tube cannot be perfectly straight and of constant diameter. For the bubble to float towards the middle either the tube curves up towards the middle (a "block vial") or it has greater diameter towards the middle (a "barrel vial"). If it is curved up towards the middle - the cheapest alternative - it won't work upside down. In ...


According to an ozzie web site, it's a non-flint electronic spark lighter.


They are old ladder jacks. Here is a picture in use: And they can go under as well:


Dual marking or cutting gauge Used for marking mortise and tenon joints. The yellow disk in the illustration below is the fence, corresponding to the disk shaped (hockey puck shaped) fence of OP's tool. The sharp edge of the marking disks scribe the workpiece. In some gauges the cutting disks rotate freely, and they are called marking wheels. With two ...


Maybe I'm missing something here but why are you trying to take off those nuts? The washers for the valves are topside. You just have to remove the valve stems to expose and change the washers. If you wanted to replace the faucet, then you'd need to get these nuts off.


From the Harbor Freight Hook Assortment (item #67587), it's a straight line "hanging hook." Photo below from the above mentioned web site:


When I had to do this for our basement I used an "Inside Pipe Cutter", a fancy bit that fits into your standard drill. Looks something like this: You chuck it in your drill, put the blade at the height you want on the interior of the pipe, and run the drill, cutting through the sidewalls. Won't be 100% perfectly straight unless you have a very ...


I make a template with a piece of paper or cardboard (like the box the item came in). This makes drilling holes in a precise pattern a bit easier. In some situations, you might transfer the pattern from your paper onto the wall using pencil / marker / spray-paint. For the size mirror you're talking about, you might want to read about another mounting ...


The top tools appear to be dies - used for cutting screw threads on rods. The lower tool appears to be a tap wrench (a tap is a tool a little like a drill bit, but used for cutting threads inside a hole). The "winding and unwinding" action is to allow it to clamp to the tap; the wrench is then used to turn the tap in the hole. The dies would also have had ...


Sorry, but that is nothing more than a stripped out Phillips screw. I'd say drilling it out is your easiest bet.


The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers. The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the ...


That is called a blind jack nut, jack nut, blind collapsing nut, etc. They are typically used when you don't have access to and/or don't have the tools to hold onto a nut on the backside of whatever you're putting it into. As you turn the bolt the wedge will move along its length, moving into/out of the split nut which adds/removes force that pushes the ...


I recently had the same issue and tried numerous solutions with no luck. In the end I purchased a strap wrench: This kind of wrench grips the object via a strap or a chain: You basically put the strap around the chuck, tighten the strap and then use the wrench handle as a lever to gain more torque while trying to undo chuck. This worked extremely well. I ...


Shopping sprees are counterproductive There isn't a Great Depression coming up, and this isn't an expedition to Mars. Buy what you need... when you need it. As far as circular saws, I can't remember the last time I used one or even missed having one. I think their danger:utility ratio is pretty poor. What I've found indispensable, however, is a ...


Impact drills are used in concrete and stone, with the appropriate drill bits, because they drill faster by causing micro fractures of the material surface and thus easier removal. The drill bits can get rather hot in the process. It is still possible to drill holes in concrete with a regular plain rotary drill with the proper carbide tipped drill bits. It ...


The second two are to reach down into a valve/faucet and refinish or smooth a bronze seat. A hard rubber washer will seal against the bronze seat. If the seat becomes corroded or worn the rubber can not seal. They are turned by hand to clean the bronze seat. Often a new washer by itself can repair a valve . But sometimes the bronze seat needs to be smoothed. ...


FreeMan's got it, Snap-ring Pliers. heres another example in use:


While I agree that when applied to bicycle maintenance these are called "cone wrenches", in general they're simply "thin open-end wrenches" or "tight-clearance wrenches".


A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00


These are often used in bicycle maintenance, because two nuts are often used to lock the bike axles. The tool is called a cone wrench, and good ones are not cheap. For example, this is a $75 set. Cheap sets are $20 and will round out upon application of torque


The top picture is a swaging tool that is used to expand the end of soft copper tubing so you can solder the next piece to it with out the use of a CXC coupling. I at one time, had a whole set of these swaging tools.


Also known as a spiral ratchet screwdriver. An old design, used by professionals and amazingly still available. One advantage is it has no batteries to go flat and no waiting for it to charge!!


Die for creating sheetmetal hemispheres. There should be a set of punches with round ball ends somewhere in that mix, unless someone misused them for something else or lost them. Doming Block and Punch Set is one term for the tool set. The die is also called a dapping block. You can find them at jewelry tool suppliers.


While you can get trimmers that use blades, they are obviously no longer string trimers at that point, even if they came from the factory with a string head. Notably, they have considerably more risk when encountering a solid object, or you - depending on blade design, blades can break and fly off, or fail to yield when encountering an obstruction and cause ...


That is a push pull ratchet screwdriver. It has a spiral shaft mechanism that turns the push/pull into rotary motion. This would be a relatively bad choice for any new holes (e.g., screw into wood where there is no existing hole), because it could easily slip. But I see two good uses for it (besides the "really cool movie use", of course): ...


Long before impact drills were available to the residential customer usually due to their high cost, a novice or home owner could replicate the actions of a "hammer drill" by starting to drill a hole in concrete with a concrete bit and if gravel was encountered, a center punch was used to crack the gravel. At that point the drilling could continue. ...


From a German website: Russka Dermapuncture anti-pain roller This massage method can promote blood circulation, relax muscles and thus relieve pain. The uniaxial Dermapuncture anti-pain roller 100 has 560 silver-plated needle tips and is used for smaller parts of the body and joints, such as: B. forehead, temples, neck, shoulders, hand, joints and for foot ...

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