4

Put the cone on a spindle so it unrolls/unwinds, rather than pulling it off the end.


3

Some DIY ideas... 1 Get yourself a chunk of mild steel or aluminum, some drill bits, and a couple taps. Build a two-sized coupling nut. You probably have a neighbor who has a tap set. You may want to use jam nuts to lock the rods into the sleeve. |=| |=| _|_|_|_ | |=| | | |=| | | | | |=| | |__|=|__| ...


2

Faucet spout aerator and hose threads come in many different sizes and threads. There is no real standardization between makes and models. Some hose fittings may even be proprietary, as in deliberately not adaptable to other items. This is because assemblies with a hose/sprayer that could accidentally be dropped into dirty water often must be designed with ...


2

I solved this by using a pipe repair clamp from the plumbing department. It is meant to seal pinhole leaks in pipe. It looks like a 3-4" long bracket that clamps to the pipe --not in this case the floor lamp tubing-- and has a rubber, inner liner. Get one in the 1" or greater size. It has two parallel bolts that tighten to clamp it all together. It'...


2

Unfortunately, wedge anchors like that are intended to be permanent. It looks like there is a bit of the collar protruding; if you can manage to push the bolt into the wall and grip the collar well enough then you could possibly wiggle the collar out and then remove the bolt. If it won't come out then you're probably looking at cutting or grinding it flush. ...


2

A U-bolt could pretty easily be bent to suit. Squeeze it together after it's on the pole, then wrap it with some wire. Now take a wrench, pliers, or bit of pipe and bend the legs back to parallel. An extra deep U-bolt might make this all easier, and you may need to trim the ends after shaping, for clearance. This would also serve to stabilize it laterally, ...


2

I would use a conduit hanger. It goes around the pole, tighten the nut and bolt that's on the left side in Pic. This will clamp the hanger onto the pipe. On the right side, I added a small bolt, this is where you would secure the winch to the hanger/pole. ** Edit ** You could use a piece of kindorf with a kindorf strap... Strap around pipe, kindorf other ...


1

Strong and Firm This is a pole bracket for a security camera. Buy the right size for your pole, so the gap between the ends of the wings is about half the pole diameter (or less). Search for "security camera pole bracket". They are not expensive. Secure it to the pole with two or three metal hose clamps. The resulting strength of the ...


1

Take a metal cutting chisel and cut it flush with your wall, then patch with Portland cement. All done!


1

If the wall is hollow cinderblock, maybe you can hammer it in so it is flush with the wall. Failing that, angle grinder.


1

Get yourself a pair of vise grips and get the bolt out first. The bolt pushes the wedges out to anchor the base into the concrete. Then you should be able to wiggle the base out. Your other option is a good carbide metal cutting sawzall blade to cut it off flush with the concrete.


1

I would drill out the plastic and glue in a plastic rod of a suitable diameter then re-drill the hole as necessary. This does of course depend on the thickness of the material that is being worked with. Another option is to glue a fresh piece of plastic behind to give more support to the screw.


1

You could try removing your tape, plastic collar and foam. Then carefully place a forming sleeve over the gap that spans between 270 degrees and 315 degrees of the circumference of the gap around the tubing post. This cover can be made from any one of a number of materials and if it is made long enough beyond the gap width you can use strong tape to hold it ...


1

There are small filters that can be installed on the end of the faucet made by Pur, Brita, and Culligan and others that have a charcoal filter and can be turned on/off when filtered drinking water is desired. You could also install a cartridge filter inside the cabinet under the sink and connected to the cold water line. Looking at the picture you posted I ...


1

I haven't seen Teflon do that before. It looks like a black pipe dope or sealer was applied over the Teflon to stop a leak. There are many different colors of pipe sealers. According to @Kris, Rectorseal makes a black one, #7, for use with corrosive chemicals and active solvents and it also specifies for metal pipes only. We'll never really know what's ...


1

A bit of lateral thinking: Leave the factory inserts at the end of the tube alone. Cut a section out of the center of the tube. Purchase a set of matching threaded inserts and a short length of all-thread with matching threads. Insert a threaded insert into each of the newly cut ends, holding them in place with epoxy. Screw together to make a shorter tube ...


1

Cut the rod to the desired length. Then get a rotary tool like a Dremel with a cutoff disk. Cut the tubing that holds the insert lengthwise down to the surface of the insert. Make three or four cuts. Then pry the tubing apart with a slotted screwdriver, freeing up the insert. Slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shortened length of tubing and tap/pound ...


1

The coiled stainless thread repair kits are the best in my opinion they provide a stronger thread because the larger diameter threads on the outside are stronger and the stainless insert is harder providing a superior hold to softer metals and plastics. I would suggest using some thread locker to hold the repair kit in place. Thread locker is not a always ...


1

If you search for antique lighting parts supplies, you'll find "hickeys" ready-made that are essentially what @isherwood describes as #1 and #2. The first picture are a couple of hickeys from my box of lighting junk. Neither of these are in the sizes you want but they come in different sizes. There are also reducing bushings such as in the ...


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