Hot answers tagged

35

Use painters tape (blue tape, Frog tape, lots of different names and brands) to mask off the areas you don't want to paint green. First, paint your ceiling and 3 walls white (2 or 3 coats, however many are needed) and wait for the paint to dry. Then, apply the painters tape to those walls and ceiling as close to the 4th wall as possible. Next, and this is ...


19

Spackle might work, however it is specially designed for repairing holes and cracks and is more expensive than the product that is normally used for doing a skim coat: regular joint compound or topping compound. You should do a bit of research and plan to practice with wide trowels/mud knives if you intend to do this yourself. Hanging the drywall is not the ...


18

In my experience, tape just doesn't do that well. Even if you get a clean line, you're at the mercy of the tape's shape, and it's following the texture. It often ends up looking artificially sharp and jaggy. Instead, use what I call the twitch technique, which is a variation of the standard cut-in. Load your brush on one side, just an inch deep or so. ...


7

I just completed a similar project. I skim coated my bathroom walls with joint compound to cover up a paint job from a previous tenant that had resulted in crackling and flaking over the entire surface of the drywall. You can read a bit about the difference between drywall joint compound (mud) and spackle here, but there a few chief differences in ...


4

The previous owners of my house did this. Drywall compound will stick very well to wood paneling (please resist the urge to get "creative" with the texture...). Wallpaper, less so, and even if it sticks well, if the wallpaper ever started peeling off, it would take the top part of the wall with it. If you're going down this route, I would highly recommend ...


3

I have used hot mud in a texture gun. Make sure to run it wet or it may plug the gun and cause problems. If you notice it setting up before the hopper is empty dump it and wash the gun or your gun may be toast. hot mud sets harder than regular mud. Both mixes will work fine and when you have your orifices set you can get the thickness you desire. Just a note ...


3

You should prime it first. Primer is essential to get good adhesion and coverage. If you're really trying to avoid applying two coats, the next best thing would be a paint + primer combo.


3

Scraping then taping will work. Re-blending the new and old textures invisibly is nearly impossible. Consider replacing 3 to 4ft instead of 12" and adding a wainscot or just a chair rail and leave the bottom smooth.


3

That is in fact a "sand finish", your intuition was right. Now depending on the age of the house it could be sand added to the plaster, added to the mud, or a "sand finish" paint. The last is your best hope of matching, as you would drywall it all smooth then simply use brushstrokes to recreate the pattern. There are premixed sand paints amazingly enough....


3

Expect to experiment to obtain the finer points. You can do that on the actual repair surface. If an attempt doesn't come out well, wipe it off immediately while it is still wet and workable. Then let the wall dry (10-30 minutes depending on ambient temperature and humidity) and repeat. Start with the wall clean, free of dust and dirt. Depending on the ...


3

If you decide to use tape rather than learning how to cut in with a brush, make sure you use the blue type masking tape and also run a flexible painters scraper along the inside edge to really seal the inside edge down. If you don't, you're guaranteed to get some 'bleed' underneath the edge of the tape.


3

I beg to differ and offer an alternative to other answers offering the best way to achieve a nice crisp edge. From my experience, the best way to achieve a good looking corner interface between different wall colors is that You don't. Especially if the surface of one of the walls which meet in said corner is textured. A good looking straight and nice line ...


3

It's called a drywall stomp. You use normal drywall mud along with something called a stomp brush and it makes that pattern on the ceiling. To remove it, take a spray bottle and fill with water. Spray your ceiling to make it damp, then take a drywall trowel and scrape the ceiling down.


3

It's a texture made with a stippling brush: https://drywall101.com/articles/texturegroups.php https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltown-9-in-Natural-Stippling-Faux-Finish-Paint-Brush/1000204375 I would suggest keeping it because otherwise you're just creating unnecessary work for yourself. Probably can't scrape it smooth so you would probably have to replace ...


3

I haven't tried it on a textured wall, but have similar issues with uneven plaster and lath. Try maintaining a steady speed and pressure on the stud finder as you sweep across the wall. (I'm much more steady with my right hand than my left.) Try going both directions - left to right, and right to left - at several different heights. Most walls have light ...


3

That looks to me like a texture that developed over the years, inadvertently, with application of multiple layers of paint using a nappy roller. You could try to duplicate by spray texturing in a "small blot" pattern, then knocking it down with a low nap roller. There are probably other ways... maybe a stippling roller would come close. Bottom line is ...


3

Have you ever tried to install the terrible interior doors Menards sells with the MDF casing? (yea we ordered 3 on sale not understanding the casing was made out of a thick cooked noodle - if the doors were a circle this would be a great idea) I am asking because if you use the 1/4" drywall to go over a ceiling the MDF door is the only way you can easily ...


3

It's either poorly prepared compound or poor application technique. I assume you're asking this because the are finished with the work. If that's the case, this is substandard work, in my opinion at least, and should be corrected.


3

That doesn't look like drywall texture to me. It looks like stippling from a heavy-nap roller. The reason you don't see it along the trim is because a brush was used there. When you paint, do the brush edging, then immediately roll over it as close as you can to the trim. This will minimize the smooth strip.


3

Using spackle to smooth the texture will be more expensive than using joint compound. Both will set hard and have about the same working and setting time. The problem with trying to smooth an already textured ceiling will take a lot of work and depends on the how course or textured it is now. It can be accomplished by a diligent DIY-er and the correct tools. ...


3

That's most likely a stiff brush applied to the wet compound. Go to the dollar store and get a cheap plastic whisk broom. Practice your strokes on a piece of scrap with a scratch coat applied.


2

It sounds like you have a mud swirl pattern on your ceiling. These can be difficult to match an existing pattern to a repair. Practice matching the pattern on scrap pieces of drywall by changing the consistency of the mix (thicker or looser) as well as how the mix applied until the pattern is replicated. Practice will enable a good match when it comes ...


2

All kinds of designers paint require the experience and skill of a professional artist or painter to achieve a faux finish. One unfamiliar with such finishes could waste gallons of paint, tons of nerves and never even get close to the way it's supposed to look. Adding color to the primer would be helpful, but learning real faux painting techniques; even ...


2

Definitely spray, especially since you don't have to cover anything, and the area is large. This is based on my experience spraying walls and ceilings at our home over 40 years. I find spraying to be kind of fun because it goes on so fast. And I like how smooth the surface is after it's sprayed. That being said, I've also learned (the hard way) to test the ...


2

Spray and roll, more commonly called spray and backroll around me is when you spray the paint on and then another person follows behind you with a roller to roll the freshly spread paint. One of the reasons to do it is to get more even coverage in textured ceilings. It's easier to do with two people so if it's just you might just want to skip the sprayer to ...


2

Top two are orange peel, bottom is knockdown. You can tell that it's knockdown by the presence of the large flat areas (where it was "knocked down" with a trowel).


2

That's known as a "knockdown" texture, as it's sprayed on the wall and later "knocked down" with a wide taping knife. Exactly how it's done is beyond the scope of this answer, but here are some resources. http://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/ceiling-texture/how-to-apply-knock-down-texture/view-all http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-knockdown-texture-...


2

Mix a cup of sand in a gallon bucket of thin mix joint compound...about the consistency of thick pancake batter... trowel on with a large blade and "sand mix" will "skip" occasionally at sticking to wall... do entire wall and when 90% dry take a moist...not wet... sponge and rub wall to soften peaks and smooth wall to uniform thickness... wait 24 hrs and ...


2

I have heard of an old Wall-paper installers trick, but have never done it myself. You take some joint compound and thin it down so that it can be put on with a smooth roller. You then roll it onto the wall. After three or so coats (let dry between coats), viola - the wall is smooth. Like I said, I have never tried it myself. But maybe someone else here has....


2

Think about 1/4 inch drywall. It can be glued or screwed up and is much easier, faster and neater than trying to take the existing finish down to smooth. You do need to deal with seams and edges at the baseboard, but it is still faster an easier. Links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible