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35

Use painters tape (blue tape, Frog tape, lots of different names and brands) to mask off the areas you don't want to paint green. First, paint your ceiling and 3 walls white (2 or 3 coats, however many are needed) and wait for the paint to dry. Then, apply the painters tape to those walls and ceiling as close to the 4th wall as possible. Next, and this is ...


18

In my experience, tape just doesn't do that well. Even if you get a clean line, you're at the mercy of the tape's shape, and it's following the texture. It often ends up looking artificially sharp and jaggy. Instead, use what I call the twitch technique, which is a variation of the standard cut-in. Load your brush on one side, just an inch deep or so. ...


14

I never tape anything and people are amazed at the crisp lines I paint in my home. I use a high quality angled brush for this. Depending on my wrist fatigue and room, I work from either left to right, or vice versa with this technique. This is self-taught and I have no idea if their is a name for this. I load the brush up with plenty of paint and then ...


4

I have the same thing. We used two methods: 1st we used a sander to lower the high points of the texture, this is something you want to use as last resort. After the sanding was finished I did a skim coat, then had to sand again to smooth the skim coat. Super labor intensive. The next room I just put up 3/8 drywall, took half the time. It seems more ...


3

No - It will never match the original pattern. But we had similar issues in many apartments where we couldn't just leave a bold spot. So we had to re do that "area" area being keyword here. Afterwards apply some undercoats to the area that was redone (we did ours with a concrete mix but some have silicone or other types) Only you will see exactly where ...


3

You should prime it first. Primer is essential to get good adhesion and coverage. If you're really trying to avoid applying two coats, the next best thing would be a paint + primer combo.


3

Scraping then taping will work. Re-blending the new and old textures invisibly is nearly impossible. Consider replacing 3 to 4ft instead of 12" and adding a wainscot or just a chair rail and leave the bottom smooth.


3

The previous owners of my house did this. Drywall compound will stick very well to wood paneling (please resist the urge to get "creative" with the texture...). Wallpaper, less so, and even if it sticks well, if the wallpaper ever started peeling off, it would take the top part of the wall with it. If you're going down this route, I would highly recommend ...


3

That is in fact a "sand finish", your intuition was right. Now depending on the age of the house it could be sand added to the plaster, added to the mud, or a "sand finish" paint. The last is your best hope of matching, as you would drywall it all smooth then simply use brushstrokes to recreate the pattern. There are premixed sand paints amazingly enough....


3

I have used hot mud in a texture gun. Make sure to run it wet or it may plug the gun and cause problems. If you notice it setting up before the hopper is empty dump it and wash the gun or your gun may be toast. hot mud sets harder than regular mud. Both mixes will work fine and when you have your orifices set you can get the thickness you desire. Just a note ...


3

Expect to experiment to obtain the finer points. You can do that on the actual repair surface. If an attempt doesn't come out well, wipe it off immediately while it is still wet and workable. Then let the wall dry (10-30 minutes depending on ambient temperature and humidity) and repeat. Start with the wall clean, free of dust and dirt. Depending on the ...


3

If you decide to use tape rather than learning how to cut in with a brush, make sure you use the blue type masking tape and also run a flexible painters scraper along the inside edge to really seal the inside edge down. If you don't, you're guaranteed to get some 'bleed' underneath the edge of the tape.


3

I beg to differ and offer an alternative to other answers offering the best way to achieve a nice crisp edge. From my experience, the best way to achieve a good looking corner interface between different wall colors is that You don't. Especially if the surface of one of the walls which meet in said corner is textured. A good looking straight and nice line ...


3

It's called a drywall stomp. You use normal drywall mud along with something called a stomp brush and it makes that pattern on the ceiling. To remove it, take a spray bottle and fill with water. Spray your ceiling to make it damp, then take a drywall trowel and scrape the ceiling down.


3

It's a texture made with a stippling brush: https://drywall101.com/articles/texturegroups.php https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltown-9-in-Natural-Stippling-Faux-Finish-Paint-Brush/1000204375 I would suggest keeping it because otherwise you're just creating unnecessary work for yourself. Probably can't scrape it smooth so you would probably have to replace ...


3

I haven't tried it on a textured wall, but have similar issues with uneven plaster and lath. Try maintaining a steady speed and pressure on the stud finder as you sweep across the wall. (I'm much more steady with my right hand than my left.) Try going both directions - left to right, and right to left - at several different heights. Most walls have light ...


3

That looks to me like a texture that developed over the years, inadvertently, with application of multiple layers of paint using a nappy roller. You could try to duplicate by spray texturing in a "small blot" pattern, then knocking it down with a low nap roller. There are probably other ways... maybe a stippling roller would come close. Bottom line is ...


3

Have you ever tried to install the terrible interior doors Menards sells with the MDF casing? (yea we ordered 3 on sale not understanding the casing was made out of a thick cooked noodle - if the doors were a circle this would be a great idea) I am asking because if you use the 1/4" drywall to go over a ceiling the MDF door is the only way you can easily ...


3

It's either poorly prepared compound or poor application technique. I assume you're asking this because the are finished with the work. If that's the case, this is substandard work, in my opinion at least, and should be corrected.


3

That doesn't look like drywall texture to me. It looks like stippling from a heavy-nap roller. The reason you don't see it along the trim is because a brush was used there. When you paint, do the brush edging, then immediately roll over it as close as you can to the trim. This will minimize the smooth strip.


2

You should. Something is needed to seal the new drywall. Primer is much cheaper than paint. The basic rule is if you want a wall to look uniform, you have to prime it first. If this is a paint + texture can, when left unprimed, the drywall will suck all the paint from the texture into the wall, leaving an uneven mess behind. If you're going to paint ...


2

Mix a cup of sand in a gallon bucket of thin mix joint compound...about the consistency of thick pancake batter... trowel on with a large blade and "sand mix" will "skip" occasionally at sticking to wall... do entire wall and when 90% dry take a moist...not wet... sponge and rub wall to soften peaks and smooth wall to uniform thickness... wait 24 hrs and ...


2

+1 on Elf's brush technique. I would add: using a small scraper or careful use of a partially exposed utility knife, to remove the texture just on either side of the inside corner. Then I would deliberately overpaint the ceiling paint onto to wall a bit (1" or so). Then go back with EvilElfs loaded brush and cut towards the ceiling. The overpainted ...


2

This kind of textured coatingis generally known as Artex in the UK (Wikipedia link.). Take great care if you set to it with a sander as other answers have suggested, as old Artex can contain asbestos. The two ways I've dealt with it previously have been to either skim over it or to remove it by first using a scraper to knock the tops off the peaks then to ...


2

If you are like me & don't have a straight hand to save your sole here are a few tips that may be helpfull. The first method is to tape along the ceiling and with using the exact color you used to paint your ceiling, apply a thin coat along the tape line between your wall & ceiling (this acts as a barrier & will not allow your new wall color to ...


2

It sounds like you have a mud swirl pattern on your ceiling. These can be difficult to match an existing pattern to a repair. Practice matching the pattern on scrap pieces of drywall by changing the consistency of the mix (thicker or looser) as well as how the mix applied until the pattern is replicated. Practice will enable a good match when it comes ...


2

All kinds of designers paint require the experience and skill of a professional artist or painter to achieve a faux finish. One unfamiliar with such finishes could waste gallons of paint, tons of nerves and never even get close to the way it's supposed to look. Adding color to the primer would be helpful, but learning real faux painting techniques; even ...


2

Either apply a skim coat (or 2 or 3) where you smooth the entire surface... Tedious but it will work - use the widest blade you can and do each coat perpendicular to the last. or... add a new layer of 1/8" drywall over the existing and mud/tape the seams.


2

I have heard of an old Wall-paper installers trick, but have never done it myself. You take some joint compound and thin it down so that it can be put on with a smooth roller. You then roll it onto the wall. After three or so coats (let dry between coats), viola - the wall is smooth. Like I said, I have never tried it myself. But maybe someone else here has....


2

Think about 1/4 inch drywall. It can be glued or screwed up and is much easier, faster and neater than trying to take the existing finish down to smooth. You do need to deal with seams and edges at the baseboard, but it is still faster an easier. Links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources.


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