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20

Another answer by Fresh Codemonger suggests having two pumps, one on regular power and the other on your inverter. I would like to suggest a similar option that I think is more efficient. As the other answer says, you should have a second pump. However, instead of connecting it to your inverter, your second pump should be one that is designed to run ...


10

I think the easier thing to do is to have two sump pump connected. The first on household power and the second on your battery. The first would have a start sensor at a lower spot than the battery sump sensor. This way the battery one only runs if the water reaches above a high spot. This will also give the added benefit that if the household sump pump ...


6

Connect all ground wires together in the light/fan combo. Ground paths often parallel, like anytime MC cable is used, a ground wire is pulled into a conduit, or a metal box is installed on a metal stud. 250.130(C) only applies in conditions of the paragraph ahead of it, where it refers to receptacle replacements and circuit extensions of existing circuits (...


6

Yes, that's fine anywhere the aesthetics are acceptable, but please don't. I'd much rather see you install either a 4 x 4 x 2-1/8 junction box, or a 4-11/16" square junction box, and fit a 1-gang mud ring. If it's a Decora device, use a mud ring with at least 1/4" of bump. Otherwise they make flat plates with 0" bump. You can also use one with a domed ...


5

It will be ugly, but I am aware of no code rule that would stop you from using an extension on a surface mounted handy box. However I can't imagine why you would; it would be just as easy to switch to say a 4x4 box with a raised industrial cover, plenty of room inside, and it would protrude less, and it wouldn't be so ugly. As mentioned in @Harper'...


5

You don't want to do that. An inverter powerful enough to start a sump pump will also have high standby losses. It will burn your battery down in short order. When you're dealing with a 12V system this small, you want all the loads to be DC. It might be tolerable if you only spun up the inverter for the second per day the pump was actually in ...


4

Yes. You understand to never parallel neutrals. Paralleling grounds is fine. Go ahead and attach them all; the more the merrier!


4

It sounds like someone cheated by removing a multi-way switch and replaced it with a single pole switch. Normally a multi-way switch has a hot, a load and two travellers. One of the travellers is always hot. If both switches are on the same hot, the circuit is completed. The trick here is you can use a three-way switch as a normal switch. You might have ...


3

Here's the trick with electrical wires in junction boxes. There is no color coding. Wires are the colors they are because that's how cables are made. There is a system and practice for relating wires to functions. However, the information is stored in the the way the wires are connected together already. For instance, in a lamp box with 3 blacks and 3 ...


3

The clicking is the relay being pulled in. This is a common failure in relays after thousands of cycles the contacts burn and do not make good contacts, I have special burnishing tools to clean the contacts and this can also be done with a fine sandpaper (400+ grit), but cutting away contact material is a short term fix in some cases. A new relay is going to ...


3

Power off obviously. You can just patiently twist and tug the wire out of the backstab, and then put a wire-nut over it, and tape the wire nut so it stays. (Wire nuts are supposed to stay on splices without help, and shouldn't be taped then; however when capping a single wire they don't work properly and need help.) Pulling a wire out of a backstab ...


3

What you're trying to do isn't going to work Judging by the extra Romex freshly brought into this box, it looks like you're trying to power an additional lamp or outlet from here, and specifically, from this here switch. Not gonna happen. At least not the way you intend. However, a new thing changes the picture: Smart switches. There's good chance ...


2

this is what Ameicans call a three way switch (and eveyone else calls two way switching) How it works is the inside switch selects one of two wires to send current down and the outside switch selects one of the same two wires to accept current from. When the two switches are in agreement current flows and the bulb lights. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...


2

If I’m understanding correctly, you’re connecting a voltmeter (or similar device) to the two terminals of the switch. When the switch is “on”, it is effectively a short circuit between the terminals (allowing current to flow to the load). Because there is no (or very little) resistance there, the voltage is the same on both terminals and your meter reads ...


2

On the 14/3 cable, tape the white wire with black electrical tape on both ends. This is always-hot. Tape the other two wires with yellow tape on both ends. These are travelers. The reason to mark with tape is a) with white it's the law; and b) with yellow, it turns a typically very confusing 3-way box into easy mode. 3-ways are notorious for having no ...


2

Standard UK wiring. 3 x blacks: neutral loop in, neutral loop out, neutral to other light. 3 x reds: live loop in, live loop out, live to switch back/red: black (with tippex) switched live from switch. red (with tippex) switched live to other light. Turn off the mains supply. Using a test meter/continuity tester, the led live to switch and black ...


1

As long as you ran a ground wire from the receptacle to the box, you should be fine providing the box is grounded. It's not uncommon for older systems with metal boxes to have the box grounds connected. Make sure they aren't just bridging neutral to ground anywhere to fool the tester. You do need to run ground wires to the box on receptacles. A ...


1

That is a three way switch. The black screw is a common terminal that switches to two different terminals on the switch. If you look at the other side of the switch, you'll see another brass screw. The black terminal will switch between the two other terminals depending on the toggle position. This and one other switch should be operating whatever is being ...


1

OK, so you have a real problem there. First, let's identify the four black/white pairs you have there, and they probably come out of cables. I'm going to label these AH for Always-Hot, N for Neutral, and SH for Switched Hot. Cable 1: Power supply from source (AH and N) Cable 2: Onward power supply to the next outlet or possibly the ring circuit, which ...


1

It's the LOAD terminals. I know you've worked with regular outlets and are accustomed to seeing 2 screws on each side, and accustomed to using them as a convenient splice block. So I gather you spotted some extra screws perhaps under some warning tape. Those are the LOAD terminals, and those are special -- they are not to be used. They have a special ...


1

Thanks for the tips. I had removed all the wires, taken pictures and was going to test the configuration again to double check that everything was correct. I was emptying the timer box and noticed a black wire there. I thought it was odd to see a wire there.. I re-read the instructions and it turns out I missed a step! As you can see below, there is a step "...


1

You cannot do what you want to do with only 2 insulated wires between the light and the switch box unless there is a second cable in the switch box. By your description the switch is in a "Switch Leg." That is the electrician vernacular for a 2 wire cable which originates at a lighting outlet and ends at a switch box and is used to take the energized ...


1

It seems to me that Leviton's switch/GFI combo would be perfect if there's already a toggle switch installed for the dishwasher. A wiring diagram (https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html) explains the installation except it uses a disposer in the illustration. It would involve replacing the existing switch with this unit. ...


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