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17

This is fine. It's a wooden open web truss system. The weight is transferred to the column at the one top point. The lower bar and diagonal bracing are to prevent the top bar from sagging over a wide span. The lower bar extends all the way to the wall so there is something for the ceiling drywall to screw into, but isn't supposed to rest on the column....


9

This is not meant to be an authoritative answer, but I have worked in many homes and buildings of similar age and you almost always see some cracks in the beams, they are usually there for decades, in fact they probably occur when wood is new and drying out for the first time. Still it can't hurt to have someone take a look at it. You could take some ...


6

If you want to install it yourself, great. But I suggest you start by having an engineer look at the application and calculate your requirements. Could be well worth the investment.


6

Blue Dashed Line: Your 3-2x12 Beam RED X: 6x6 Posts D.Fir 2x10 @ 16" O.C. spanning 14' + 2' overhang past beam: 16' joists Solid 2x10 Blocking mid-span 6x6 posts @ 12' O.C. **post edited to match additional info from comments.*


6

Shear strength of the hardware isn't going to be a real concern. A single 1/4" Grade 5 lag bolt, in a configuration like this, will fail at roughly 13,000 lbs. Even 1/8" lag screws (well down into "numbered" screw sizes) will have a shear strength of over 3,000 pounds. Your piece of slate, if its density and dimensions are fairly regular for the species of ...


5

2015 INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTIAL CODE CHAPTER 15 EXHAUST SYSTEMS M1502.2 Independent exhaust systems. Dryer exhaust systems shall be independent of all other systems and shall convey the moisture to the outdoors. M1502.3 Duct termination. Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building. Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the ...


5

For an 8.5' span I'd say no. The purpose of the jack studs isn't just to hold up the header - it also helps distribute the load more evenly to the foundation. For that wide of a span the IRC calls for 2 jacks(see R502.5 Allowable girder spans).


5

Hmmm...no digging in the ground and no concrete. Sounds like the four perimeter beams will be your foundation. They’ll need to be treated for ground contact (pressure treated) as you indicate. Your total load will be about 220 lbs. (Live Load) as you indicate, plus about 800 lbs. in lumber and material (Dead Load). I did not add snow load as I’d assume ...


5

Unless there is more to this than you've shown, this was added AFTER construction to permit the installation of the squat rack. As such, it's NOT a part of the garage's structure and so removing it will not compromise it in any way.


4

My house has encountered a very similar issue with joists splitting in the basement. I was told by two contractors that its been like that and not fallen down so no need to worry.. I don't accept that as an answer. I (as an engineer) called in an engineer who specialized in residential construction and inspection. The engineer I brought in had a ...


4

If I saw that in my basement I wouldn't worry about it until the column (post) started moving. But if I did want to get proactive I'd get a jack and a 4x4 set up next to that column and jack it until that post is loose. Then put a new steel plate in there which should last the next 50 years. And since this is internet advice and might actually be ...


4

What Nate said in his answer is true, but need to go a bit further on this question. There are several charts available that specify beam sizes based on span, spacing and types of materials used. A beam 20 foot long would be difficult to create with dimensional lumber, but not impossible. You will be more likely to find that a LAM or steel beam will be ...


3

I did this before for a kitchen remodel, just as Mike mentioned, it looks like you have good access inside your attic. For the remodel I built a scaffold outside at the gable end that was closest to the work at hand, removed the vinyl siding in my case cut a hole in between the gable studs and pushed the LVL in from there. It took a second scaffold to get ...


3

My suspicion is that the ceiling joists are lapped over that beam, something like: So moving the beam is nearly impossible without major structural work. Furthermore, in the basement, under the post there is likely a footer. You'd need to crack the concrete floor and dig a 20 inch deep hole and fill it with concrete and rebar for the new post location in ...


3

You would certainly need to consult a structural engineer and get all plans approved and permitted before beginning work. It will be expensive but since you indicate willingness here goes.... It is completely possible to relocate that post. The question will always be price and design. In my humble opinion the work isn't even all that difficult once you know ...


3

it this case, it is not a home improvement project. Since it is a commercial building, you really need to have an engineer design a fix. the liability is to great in rental or commercial property not to have it endorsed. Don't take a cheap fix, it will bite you. The safety of a lot of people depend on how you fix the problem.


3

Your picture suggests that they are different truss types. The fact that one doesn't have the vertical member in the middle doesn't mean that it isn't needed. I could design a roof without any bracing members - that doesn't mean that you can go and take out bracing members from a different roof. My design would need chunkier members and connections to take ...


3

These appear to be engineered as top chord bearing floor trusses. The installation appears to be consistent with typical installation requirements for such systems.


3

There may be some options on how to handle this situation but you have left out some pretty important information. Missing is how high the existing 4x6 supports are already. It the posts are only 6 inches high then it would be pretty hard to add 30 inches on top of them. On the other hand if they are 4 feet high then the possibilities increase. Given ...


3

Concrete does not react well with normal wood, so don't pour up along the post. That's why the little block is on top of the pier you have, its made either of pressure treated wood, or redwood. If you really want a better pier, pour one a little larger then what you have, and you can include a metal hold down or strap to make sure nothing moves later. (and ...


3

2x8s aren't adequate for floor joists by modern standards, let alone for beams (even doubled). Someone probably added the steel beam and post due to floor bounce or sag. My former home had something nearly identical underneath where a fireplace was added. I'd either leave it in place or bolster the doubled 2x8s that are along the duct with additional ...


3

The image you provided from the internet is the typical solution. You state concern of the king stud for the window framing being too close to the exposed stud in your included photo to add an additional jack stud for the header for your dog door. The addition of a jack only narrows the opening one and a half inches. You need to determine the required rough ...


3

Is it a reasonable approach to resolve the current/future sagging issue? Yes, adding 2x6 lumber should resolve your issue. 12 feet is still a long span for unsupported 2x6 boards, but it'll be a definite improvement. Be sure to crown each rafter to maximize benefit. Could I potentially use a 4x4 instead of a 2x6 to get the same support and save myself the ...


3

The existing supports look to just be a piece of wood stood on end, and fastened into the rail running the length of the bed. The simplest solution would be to build a wider support, also out of wood, and also fastened into that rail. Grab a 2x4, cut it into pieces ~6" long, and stack them until you get the height you need. 6 lengths of 2x4 stacked in this ...


3

No, 3-4-5 creates a right angle, not a 45 degree angle. In your example, “a” must equal “b” for “c” to have 45 degree angle cuts at the ends.


3

Sure you can fix this, but I wouldn’t opt for the “shelf” idea. Typically, in a post and beam foundation, all loads are transferred directly to the soil. Installing a “shelf” will put thrust on the foundation wall. Obviously the foundation is marginal and I doubt the wall is designed for any horizontal thrust. You’ll be pouring several “pad” footings, so ...


3

@Ecnerwal and @UnhandledExcepSean, I believe you are correct. Looking at this thing from below, I can see screw holes where a speed bag was probably mounted in the past.


3

The stuff for the green bit is edge banding. You can also use thin strips of the laminate that the counter is topped with if you can get it, or have some stashed, so that it matches better. The usual approach to the blue bit is to simply put a sheet of plywood there, parallel to the washer/dryer beside it - or just put a cabinet there, rather than having an ...


2

I have seen this solution done many times, and it is taught in carpentry and building courses. Please note homeowners must not attempt to design or carry out this work themselves. Your whole roof may collapse in on you. Your roof framing may be one of two standard types - truss framed roof or "old school" non truss (officially called traditional and or ...


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