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14

Since this is in Germany, I would assume the following (this is a very common situation): Behind the current oven+hob combo, there is a box on the wall with five wires and three-phase service ("Herdanschlussdose"). Currently, the oven part is connected to this box, and the hob is connected to the oven (which containts the buttons to control the ...


13

What is happening is called product of combustion. Somewhere around in the house or near the house someone used or opened some sort of stain, paint, varnish or comparable compound including cleaners. The molecules carry over and get mixed in with air and then burned off from open flame. If you light a candle or a lighter you will smell the same odor, ...


11

Many years ago, electrical was done without ground wires. Range/ovens need 240V for all the stuff that makes heat, and 120V for the oven light (so you can use readily available bulbs). Because of this, ranges were supplied 120/240V hot-hot-neutral. When the grounding "fad" took off, the NFPA wanted to mandate 4-wire range and dryer connections: hot-...


10

A nearly 40 year old power cord is going to be nasty. Dust, grease, possibly cracked insulation internally, possibly asbestos insulation if the "original" cord was itself recycled. All are fine unless you disturb the cord. Pulling the stove out disturbs the cord. Pulling out a stove is a fairly major operation, I would take the opportunity to completely ...


9

Well, on the one hand that is (to me) an odd setup (since the counter continues in front of the cooktop, the cooktop is drop-in, but dropped in on top of the oven and apparently connected to it, an arrangement that's more commonly seen in a slide in or freestanding "range" as we call an oven/cooktop combined in one appliance locally. Probably not ...


8

Call the power company and report an outage You lost one of your phases of power. This is almost always a problem at the power company's end of the wire. When you turn your oven on, it has the effect of connecting the dead phase to the still-live one. However this gives very weak power on the dead phase, and this won't hold. Go to your breaker panel and ...


7

To increase the amp rating of your circuit breaker, you almost certainly need to increase the gauge of all the wiring on that circuit. Circuit breakers are there to protect the wiring for overloading, overheating, melting the insulation, and eventually starting a fire. Typically, you have the following wire gauges (this may vary with long circuits and your ...


7

It is called a spade connector, or spade lug terminal. You are holding a female connector. You can purchase these at an electronics supply shop. As you might expect, they are available in a bewildering variety of styles and sizes. You might want to bring one of your connectors for identification. Some are designed to be soldered onto the end of a wire, ...


7

You can keep the existing wiring and breaker Range loads are computed from their wattage, based on the rules in NEC's Table 220.55. In particular, since 422.10(A) paragraph 4 explicitly permits range loads to be sized as per Table 220.55: Branch circuits and branch-circuit conductors for household ranges and cooking appliances shall be permitted to be in ...


6

Yes it should be in a junction box. It can be hard wired but that takes a cover plate and a strain relief. This is uncommon at least in my code area. The common method is at minimum 3 wires 2 hot and a ground (I don’t see a ground) . I see the neutral wire cut off on the cord side. The modern method is to provide all 4 wires 2 hot 1 neutral and a grounded ...


5

See table 220.55 in the NEC, as well as footnote 4 to that table: Branch-Circuit Load. It shall be permissible to calculate the branch-circuit load for one range in accordance with Table 220.55. The branch- circuit load for one wall-mounted oven or one counter-mounted cooking unit shall be the nameplate rating of the appliance. The branch-circuit ...


5

That is probably normal (with a small possibility of being a defect). The hot indicator is precisely that, and is designed to turn off only after all spots have definitely cooled. And it may not know when that is, because it may be a simple timer, rather than a temperature sensor. And it may be designed for worst case, i.e. A pot left on the burner for ...


5

Update: the stove you refer to is an outdoor gas stove. You don't even need to talk to anyone, using thas stove indoors will violate all kinds of regulations and will pose a huge safety hazard to you. There are also better ways of killing yourself than running an outdoor gas stove indoors. Unfortunately Ooni doesn't give the power of the stove on their web ...


5

Propane and Natural Gas Are Supplied at Different Pressures A propane stove orifice size is about 0.082 inches (drill size 45), but the valve on a similar stove that uses natural gas needs an orifice that is almost 0.125 inches (drill size 35). If you are running your range from propane but using the orifice for natural gas, you will get this behaviour. You ...


5

Table 220.55 and combining appliances Since you're replacing a range with a cooktop+oven as separates, we start with NEC Table 220.55 Note 4: Branch-Circuit Load. It shall be permissible to calculate the branch-circuit load for one range in accordance with Table 220.55. The branch-circuit load for one wall-mounted oven or one counter-mounted cooking unit ...


4

Before you do anything else, look at the appliance's rating plate. It is probably located somewhere inside the door or maybe on the back. While this one is for an electric clothes dryer, all appliance ratings plates have the same information. You can see it clearly indicates the amperes required, in this case 24. So a 30 amp circuit would be fine. If ...


4

A big reason: the old cord (and receptacle) may be obsolete and dangerous. Your connectors will look slightly different, since they are probably -50 instead of -30, that number being the amp rating. 40 years ago, grounding was relatively new, and it was "par for the course" to fake up ground protection for stoves and dryers by using the neutral instead. ...


4

You may not be able to find a timer that's designed to directly switch that much, but you can find a timer that switches a lot less, and use it to switch the coil of a relay that can switch whatever load you require. Relay coils take very little power to switch, and relay contacts can be had as large as you could possible need, or larger. However, if you ...


4

The stove will have a gas regulator on it, so assuming that it is performing as-expected, you cannot increase the pressure in order to generate more heat. The stove is designed to accept a range of pressures from the supply line to begin with and increasing the pressure beyond what the regulator is designed for would be dangerous. If the flame is mostly ...


4

Bottom line is NO, you definitely cannot do what you propose. You CANNOT parallel a circuit like this of this size. It is expressly forbidden in the NEC, and could very well be a safety hazard. If the appliance takes two separate circuits like your old one that is a different story. Do you know what size and type of wire is feeding the old 30A circuits? ...


4

You need to read through your owners manual. Set up procedures should tell you everything you need to know.


4

The water apparently got inside the stove and caused a short. If there was a fuse inside there that blew, the breaker wouldn't have tripped. The breaker is detecting the excessive current to the appliance and switching off the power before the wiring inside the wall overheats and start a fire. The best solution, as the electrician indicated, is to have the ...


4

It doesn't look like asbestos; it also does not seem likely that a stove manufactured that recently would incorporate asbestos in a "user serviceable" area. Problem is that some countries still do not regulate asbestos. The only way to know for sure is to ask the maker or have it analyzed at a lab. It does look like it could be refractory ceramic fiber (RCF)...


4

As long as the oven only needs the output from 3/8" then there is no issue with this at all. I would think that that 3/8" could supply any home oven (that's still a lot of gas) so I don't think there is an issue at all. If the manufacturer agrees then there is no reason for you to worry about it. Frankly the installer probably installed the shut-off that ...


4

The stove may be one of the more modern types known as having "dual fuel". I have one of those and the cook top burners above are using natural gas while the oven operates on electricity. In fact even the oven has two operating modes selectable between static heat generation and convection with the hot air being moved around. As such the stove unit has a ...


4

Pull the oven burner and check for lint or any thing that could partially block the air inlet at the burner venturi. If you can see the flame, It should be blue and have a definite pattern not yellow and lazy. My last home had propane for cooking and the stove required more than normal maintenance. If the odor is a "burn your nose or eyes" kind of odor that ...


4

10/3 cable absolutely requires a 30A breaker or less. Period. NEC 240.4(B), which overrides any number anywhere else in Code (though all those other places also limit NM/UF/Romex to 30A). You will need to review your range's UL-approved instructions to see whether it "recommends" or "requires" 8/3 and a 40A breaker. If it "requires", then pull 8/3 (leave ...


4

The burners on stoves are either on or off, there's no "variable" resistance in them. The "variable" part comes from the switch that has a bi-metal switch that varies the amount of time the burner is on. At low temperatures the switch opens fast so the burner doesn't get too hot. When you set the switch for high temperatures, the bi-metal ...


4

Check the manual for the hob (range/stovetop/pick a word that works based on where you live - for the OP, hob it is.) The last such manual I read (while checking a similar problem) the regulator was in the correct position (convertible between LP/Natural Gas) but there was also supposed to be an adjustment for the lowest flame on each burner. I say "...


4

This is typical for spark-ignition cooktops Electronic (spark) ignited cooktops generally run all the igniters when any burner is engaged in the ignition position. This is done for both simplicity (easier to have one ignition module feeding HV to four sets of electrodes than to have an ignition module per burner or to switch the high ignition voltage on/off)...


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