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those inserts will work, but if it's going into steel you'll need to cut a thread in the steel to accept the insert, the will self-cut aluminium but not steel. For that steel you'll need a tap that matches the thread on the outside of the insert (and a tap handle to turn it, and some cutting oil). The inserts should come with a installing tool or you can use ...


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Sounds like you're asking for a drop-in solution for an existing hole and screw size. That's a tall order. I doubt you'll find it, but if you can stand a bit of DIY here are a few options... A Helicoil (repair coil) normally requires existing threads, but you could epoxy it into place. I'm not sure an M5 will fit your hole, though. You'd want to run your ...


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At this point grease with a low viscosity agent to carry it into the rope. I would dissolve automotive type grease with a little gasoline or light oil . That should carry the grease through the steel rope. You could do the easy thing and spray with something like WD-40 but that will require routine repeated applications. Other coatings like paints may ...


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The problem is that you have a metal to metal connection between the stainless eyes and galvanized wire rope. Add water and you get galvanic corrosion. Either electrically insulate the connection or change the eyes to galvanized ones. The purpose of the plastic coating is mainly to give the cable a cleaner/smoother/softer surface. The galvanizing is to ...


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For connecting tread to stringer, a piece of flat bar welded on to make a bracket (instead of angle). For risers (if needed) the the top end of the riser is typically held in a groove in the underside of the tread, and bottom end attached to the back of the other tread, Stringers are often C-section beams (not flat bar).


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Attach the angle to the plywood and put the 2x8 behind the angle where it doesn't use up any extra height. you can screw through the vertical part of the angle into the edge of the 2x8. put extra plywood under the seam where there is not already angle or 2x8.


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If the tyres are blown out then its sitting on the rims, damaging them and whatever hard surface it is resting on. You should purchase a pair of axle-stands per axle on the vehicle. The stands should be of sufficient capacity to support the whole vehicle when finished. Lift the vehicle onto the stands by using a vehicle jack. Two stands per axle, so you ...


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@Jon, @Freeman, and @ThreePhaseEEl, thank you for your comments. So the conclusion was that stainless steel is fine as long as the junction between the galvanised steel and stainless is inside the building envelope which ensures that there is never enough moisture to cause galvanic corrosion. Galvanised fasteners are NOT allowed to be exposed externally for ...


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I would get the best cutter that you can find. I have not read an ASTM rebar specification in many years , However , they were relatively tolerant . So they can be double stamped ; A mill can make all one grade which simplifies their operation . So they could make all Grade 75 and supply it for all lower grades because it easily meets the tensile ...


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The International Residential Code (IRC) requires a minimum of 40,000 psi (Grade 40). (See ICC IRC R404.4.6.1) I think most architects and engineers design for Grade 40 or 50, because they are readily available. If your working in a high seismic zone or high wind area, they may use a higher grade. Also, commercial work is often Grade 80.


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Per IRC, the minimum deck design live load is 40 psf, typical deck weight 10 psf, and deflection is limited to Span Length (L)/360. I will add another 10 psf misc. weight in the calculation below. Note, W10 x 15 is slightly off, but considered acceptable.


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Hmmm...let me see if I have this correct. You’re using 14’ long joists with a 2’ overhang. So, that means your deck is 12’ wide and half that distance (6’) will be transferred back to the house and the other 6’ plus the overhang (2’) will bear on the steel beam. So the total load is 6’ + 2’ = 8’ x 50 psf = 400 plf on the steel beam. The smallest steel beam I ...


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