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50

Lay the steel plate on the concrete where you want it. Draw a line around it. Cut a piece of paper to the same size as the steel plate. Place it on the concrete in the same position as the marked outline. Locate the concrete holes by gently pressing down where you think they are (tracing paper makes this even easier). Poke a hole through the paper at ...


48

You're probably thinking of the wrong sort of metal When most people think of "metal buildings", they think of I-beams, columns, and open-web joists, as found in large-scale construction. While these are used effectively in high-rises, big-boxes, and factory buildings where structural engineers can work everything out, precalculated span and ...


28

3/8" mild (hot-rolled) steel isn't difficult to drill, but any bit will fail if you get it hot enough to melt the cutting edge. Each hole should take no more than a minute. Use a sequence of sizes (1/8", 1/4", 3/8"). This makes for quicker drilling and allows each bit to cool between uses. If you only have "pilot point" bits on hand, use a starter bit that'...


28

There are loads of pre-designed steel building shells out there. Use one. These are offered by commercial building companies for farm and industrial buildings. They have gotten a family of designs pre-approved, and they pre-manufacture all the required beam sections. You take one of their stock widths, and any length you want as long as it's a multiple of X ...


27

Drill a round hole, and then square the sides with a file. You might also get lucky by calling metal working shops in the area. If they have a punch of the right size, it would take only seconds for them to punch the hole for you. A maker space might have the tools to help you here. Possibly a laser cutter.


23

I use what are generically called "tin snips". True tin snips are designed for thin, relatively soft material (like sheet tin or similar metal). But the good ones can cut through almost anything. I had a recent problem (very long story...short version here) where I ended up with a screw stuck inside an oven hinge and after trying all kinds of ...


18

For cutting locks, nothing beats an angle grinder. Good locks are all made with hardened steel that should be as hard as any metal cutting blade for a saw. The reciprocating saw will be able to make a little progress into the shackle, but its speed will dull the blade quickly, and once it's even a little dull, it will stop cutting and melt/grind the teeth ...


18

An abrasive cutting disk works well. That might take the form of an angle grinder or a rotary tool (often generically called by the Dremel brand name).


18

Cable cutters are the tool designed for cutting cable. If you're doing this a lot, the correct tool helps. For a one-off task, it may not be worth the cost, although then you have the tool for life. Cable Cutters are basically scissors/tin snips but with curved blades, so the wire being cut is trapped and cannot squish out the mouth. I use something like ...


17

Cutting should be easy This is true for generally all tool-bit-upon-steel work. You should cut long, continuous "chips" (strings, really) that come off like pasta, to the point where you sometimes have to intervene to break them, to keep them from rats-nesting around the drill. run quite cool, to where you can disengage the bit from the work and grab it ...


16

Depending on how small a square you want to cut out, you may be able to do it with a rotary tool (e.g.- a Dremmel) with a cut-off wheel.


16

If I have to drill square tubing with a hand operated electric drill I will use a square and mark a line all the way around the four sides of the tubing at the location along the length where the hole is to be located. Then mark the center locations of the holes on the two faces of the tubing on opposite sides. Then use a center punch to dimple the center ...


15

The usual methods are: Careful measurement. Really this doesn't need to be that precise, you are not looking for a press-fit between bolts and clearance holes. If it goes wrong, just elongate a hole into a slot using whatever tools you have to hand (e.g. a round file, clapped-out old Bridgeport, ...) - Remember: "A grinder file/filler and paint make me ...


14

Your best bet would be the correctly sized metal screw. Not a bolt, but a screw. Some of them are self drilling/tapping (these are commonly referred to as simply "self-tapping" in the US). They will drill their own hole and tap their own threads all in one step. If you can't find the right sized metal screw, you can get a self-tapper a little bigger than ...


14

The term "stainless steel" is a very broad term. There are many types of stainless steel, and on top of that there are more than 150 grades of steel (i.e. each "type" of stainless steel can fall within 150+ "grades" of steel). If you want the gory details check out the wikipedia page on stainless steel. Personally, when a ...


13

Any information you'd glean from this discussion is untrustworthy for the following reasons: No photos. They often reveal issues not mentioned in your short description. No dimensions. In engineering, dimensions are key. No information about construction era or age. That would tell us a lot about common building techniques. No liability. Anyone telling ...


13

Background: My father was a structural engineer in the steel building industry and did exactly what you are asking for - calculate the statics of buildings and other large constructions, dimension struts, bolts and so on. Is this all completely hopeless or is there a way to finish the construction in steel? Yes, this is completely hopeless. You will not, ...


12

Feeds and speeds First, there is one correct feed and speed that will make even a $1 drill cut like through butter. This is an eye-opener for those new to metal work; they think they can buy effective cutting with expensive bits. Nope, it is not for sale. What you're thinking is a waterknife; you can definitely buy those! I work in metal a lot; and I don'...


11

For the serious metalworker there are square punches, but for the hobbyist one great tool is the nibbler. This is a handheld punch that removes about 1/8 by 1/4 inch of material per stroke. With practice you can make almost any size and shape hole you want in sheet metal. I know Klein Tools makes one, as one I have one. Others probably do so as well.


11

That application obviously results in a lot of torsional stress on the part. You'll want to drill the top for bolts and nuts, as opposed to using sheet metal screws, which will eventually work loose. I'd size them to the holes in the bracket plate. The type of bolt isn't really important, but you probably want something with a low head profile. It must be ...


11

What makes the commercial product better than just purchasing steel plates and bolts? The commercial product doesn't rely on the screws in wood to connect the two sides. A sideways force would be spread over the area of the bracket, compressing a wide area of wood. With the plates, the same force would lever the screws out of the wood.


11

Prefab metal shed. These are popular and durable. They are used on farms and workyards everywhere. Many, many sizes and shapes are available. Quonset huts many decades old are still in service. If you want a metal building why not buy one from a company that makes and sells them. There will be people from the company available to help you put it up. ...


10

Most drill bits sold are "high speed" drill bits intended for a variety of materials including metal (but not concrete, tile, glass or extended use in plaster or plasterboard). If the bits are fairly sharp, you should be able to use them in the steel, assuming it is not a hardened alloy. To improve your chances, a bit of oil or cutting fluid at the ...


10

I would use a hammer and chisel on steel plate. Not a wood chisel but a cold chisel for steel. Lay line over a solid piece of steel, place chisel at cut point, and hit chisel with heavy type of hammer.


9

A hack saw is a fine tool to cut fairly thin gauge tubing (which this seems to be). You may want to use a jig of some sort, such as a miterbox, to keep your cut square to the piece. Tape around the diameter to minimize chipping of the finish. File down the cut edge to remove the burrs from sawing, using a metal file, followed by emory paper. If there is a ...


9

In general, yes, stainless steel is more corrosion resistant than copper. It forms a tightly bonded oxide coating which tends to prevent further corrosion. If replumbing a house where copper pipes corroded (this is more prone to happen in some areas than others due to water chemistry differences) my first instinct at this point would be to use PEX plastic ...


8

No. Steel bits need to be very sharp to do their job. In fact, unless you set a depth gauge just barely through the metal, you'll wreck the cutting edge with every hole when you contact concrete and need to resharpen. Concrete bits create holes by pounding and disintegrating the material. They have cutting edges, but that's mostly to focus the impact and ...


8

The most dangerous thing I hear on construction sites is, "Aw, that ain't goin' nowhere." I can't tell you how many things I've seen go wrong because someone did some eyeball engineering and guessed wrong. I would not substitute plates for post caps. The connector has to secure the beam and post in position, resist lift-up / shear / twisting ...


7

That is made for structural building members, e.g. this is designed to support a composite main beam holding up a 2-story building. Home Depot doesn't even stock it. What you're actually after is this guy, which does way more stuff in a more complicated way than what you're trying to make. If drilling holes in a piece of flat stock was good enough, why ...


6

It will probably be 3 to 6 hours of non-skilled labor (neighborhood kids?) to dig up the concrete and remove the whole assembly. Don't cut the post off: it will help wiggle out the base. Dig a hole immediately to one side of the concrete base of a convenient size. (There is no need to dig all around it.) A post hole digger works great. Make the hole at ...


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