The use of these devices is limited to specific situations, which are described in 334.40(B) of the National Electrical Code. The 2011 version of the code had this to say.
National Electrical Code 2011
334.40(B) Devices of Insulating Materials. Switch, outlet, and tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed ...
That qualifies as a junction box. Provide you did everything else correct, (affixed the box to something a rafter, stud, etc., connected the box itself to the ground wire inside, covered any previously knocked-out knock-outs, etc.) then you're fine.
Use a mechanical lug connector ("Polaris" or equivalent)
AlumiConns are only rated for a maximum of 10AWG wire. For fatter work, you'll want their bigger brothers, mechanical lug connectors (sometimes called "Polaris connectors" after a common brand name) -- the smallest size of them is generally rated for wires anywhere from 14AWG to 4AWG, and as a rule, ...
If you are discontent with the quality of wire nuts, you can go to a proper splice block. These are my go-to for anything larger than 6 AWG.
The wires are inserted in the side, then they are tightened down from the top holes with hex keys to a specified torque. The holes where the hex keys go in are then capped. If the wires are near the ...
If I understand your question correctly, the answer is it is irrelevant how you connect the standard receptacles past the GFCI one. What determines whether they are GFCI protected is how you connect the GFCI receptacle.
If you connect the GFCI receptacle to the line connection only (usually using pigtails) and do not use the load connections, then none of ...
This family of lights uses all 120v wiring which means the full weight of NEC applies. You cannot "freestyle" splices in the manner you are talking, you must use listed products, which those cheapie butt splices probably won't be. They do exist, but O'Reilly Auto doesn't sell them and they don't use $5 crimp tools either.
So here's how you handle "the ...
You'll need a box, and a pretty chunky one at that
Splicing wire this large is indeed done with insulated mechanical splice connectors like the one you linked -- you will need one per wire, and a torque screwdriver or wrench, marked and calibrated in inch-pounds, to install them properly. As to containing the splices, you will need something larger than a ...
Yes, it must be in a junction box. There are splice connectors available for installation in a space where a junction box is not possible, but those splice connectors are explicitly rated for such a purpose; the connector you have proposed is not.
Putting a junction box in an attic is not that big of a deal. Just do that.
You can splice diferent sizes, temperatures or types (NM, UF, THHN, SJOOW) cable anywhere it's legal to splice cable.
It needs to be inside a junction box.
The boxes need to be someplaces boxes aren't disallowed.
The cables need to have proper cable clamps entering the box.
The boxes need to forever be accessible without disassembling any part of the ...
Chop and solder. Of course, if the current adapter is dead, it can be difficult to establish correct polarity - but I think I see that labeled nicely on the present adapter (it's not always, though it should be.)
For a tidy job, split the cords and cut the + and - wires at different lengths (so the joints are slightly offset, rather than being at the same ...
To answer your question, split-bolts properly insulated (as you've done) certainly ARE rated for "live" conductors. Ask your inspector to provide the code citation prohibiting them. For decades split-bolts were the go-to splice for larger conductors.
Splitting #6 strands to fit on two #10 lugs
No, it's illegal to split wires like that. Aside from failing on 110.12 "neat and workmanlike", it is also paralleling (not allowed without special apparatus) and 110.3b "using a product inconsistent with it labeling/instructions".
You need a lug connector rated for #6. Looks like an Alumiconn but is rated for ...
You'll need a pretty chunky box for those splices
Wires 4AWG and up can't be spliced in any old junction box as they're simply too stiff and fat to fit into junction-box-sized boxes. Instead, you need to use what's called a pull box in the trade to house your splicing job, which invokes the box sizing rules in NEC 314.28(A), specifically (A)(2):
You can have wires entering from one side or both sides.
If I have 4 wires and I can arrange them neatly to come from both sides then I tend to do 2 and 2...
But if 4 on one side is neatest or convenient...
You can't, but no need.
If you're referring to the Tyco Electronics Romex splice kits, yes, they make those for 3-wire w/ground as well as 2-wire w/ ground.
If you mean some other splice method, you have to read its instructions for whether it is suitable in-wall. As far as I know the Tyco is the only one that is UL-listed for buried in-wall splicing. ...
Allow enough space.
A cable is 2-5 wires inside a plastic sheath.
A #14 wire needs 2.0 cubic inches.
A #12 wire needs 2.25 cubic inches.
A #10 wire needs 2.5 cubic inches.
A #8 wire needs 3.0 cubic inches.
A #6 wire needs 5.0 cubic inches.
Beyond that, it gets complicated.
All grounds together count as 1 wire of the largest size. So if you have a ...
box fill for 12 awg wire has a multiplier of 2.25.
the ground wire is only counted once so with 3 cables plus the feed 1x2.25 for the ground 8x 2.25 for the 4 hot and 4 neutral.
There is no switch or device in this box so we could skip that but if there was 4.5 adder would be needed because 2x of the largest wire connecting to it.
The integrated clamps in ...
Yes. That's what pigtails are for. No problem at all.
Incoming (from panel) wires -> LINE side of GFCI
Outgoing wires - short pigtails (colors matching the outgoing wires, normally black & white) -> LOAD side of GFCI
On the other end of each pigtail, wire nut the two matching wires to the other locations.
All grounds (both sides) are connected ...
For the 240V single-phase 60A circuit to my shop I used a 3-phase disconnect. It had 3 switched terminals, and also a ground lug bonded to the case itself. The inspector was fine with this approach.
Elsewhere for another project I used Polaris lugs which I got off eBay for a reasonable price, and were very easy to work with. Far simpler than using a split ...
There are too many unknowns here for us to help you out. We don't know which switches you intend to use afterwards (locations), what access you have to joining the circuits together, or what the possibilities of joining them would be without knowing of your personal setup.
Your setup, roughly as described to us is...
<--- S --- S --- Kitchen Lights
I'm putting this up as an answer, mostly because there wasn't enough space in the comments. If I'm completely misunderstanding, please point it out, so that I and others might learn.
The big box stores in the US sell something called the Tyco Electronics Romex splice kit. (Model # CPGI-1116377-2.) They say the following:
Tyco Electronic's Non-metallic ...
Use set-screw connectors like Polaris that are UL listed for the size. Also it would be a good idea to research the conductor and color selection, at very least figure out why the equipment ground is being accomplished by a blue neutral wire, the bare ground from the SE cable isn't terminated, and the metal box doesn't appear grounded.
This was my solution to a very similar issue. I used a Square D 30 Amp Safety Disconnect Switch. The cost factor was about the same as purple twist on things that may or may not catch fire or Polaris connectors that have to be crammed into a 4" box. Its a little bigger than one, but, believing everything is right and safe makes it very appealing.
Alumicons are rated for
Aluminum Wire Range: Min #12 / Max #10
Copper Wire Range: Min #18 / Max #10
So your #6 Al wire is way over, not even close. One way to go would be Al-Cu split bolts, but making these up properly takes some skill. You may need a box extension for that box, too.
The flexible metallic conduit is not connected to the box properly. You ...
What you want is a ceiling box that uses an old-work brace
If you have ever been in a hardware/home-improvement store and wondered why some of the boxes had what looked like a long metal brace attached to them, like so (picture for illustration only):
wonder no further. That brace is meant to go between adjacent ceiling joists and support both the box and ...
That should be fine, it looks like that's just a general purpose receptacle and it's OK to add a small load like a doorbell transformer to that circuit. It looks like there's room in the box, and clearance so the transformer will fit.