18

The naked wire is the ground (sometimes colored green) and is not the same as the neutral. Your particular installation requires a neutral so that the switch can be powered without sending power to the load. If there is no neutral in your electrical box it means that the power source (line) does not come into that box and instead you are just switching the ...


10

Someone ran out of white wire It appears the previous installers ran out of white wire to use for running neutrals, so they grabbed the spool of green wire off the back of the truck to keep the job going. As a result, you'll need to treat the green wires in your switch boxes as neutrals for the purposes of installing your smart switch. This is workable ...


6

The nut of the problem is the ground wire joining the neutrals in drawing 1. This is a bootlegged attempt to fix a fundamental problem of bringing 5 wires: 2 travelers, always-hot, neutral and ground in a /3+ground cable. Everything in drawing 1 is bootlegging neutral from ground. This is bad and needs to be fixed Right Now. Not least, nothing in that ...


6

The remote you use to turn the light on and off is not compatible with LED bulbs. One reason people love LED bulbs is because they use so little power. Unfortunately, some devices in the past used the fact that a regular light bulb can pass some current without glowing. Certain types of switches use a little bit of "parasitic" voltage running through the ...


6

As you know, "green = ground" and "white = neutral". As you probably also know, ground and neutral should only be connected in one place (main panel) and not in individual switches or other devices. So that means one of two things: Broken Neutral This is the classic situation. A neutral breaks. Instead of running a new neutral wire or a new cable, someone ...


5

It's simply a splice. They are using the screw and the backstab to accomplish what they could do with a pigtail. In particular, they are grabbing "always-hot" because this is the first switch. Presumably they are also grabbing neutral. An ideal 3-way circuit: What they are doing: (shown translucent)


5

Mark that green wire white That green wire behaves at both ends like a neutral. I think it is one. I would get some white tape and spiral wrap it around that green wire, to mark it most of the visible length. Do that at both ends. This is still illegal, but if you don't happen to have a spool of white THHN wire in your kit, you are certainly better off ...


4

I think you hooked up neutral correctly. Stay away from the 3-way switch. Your assumption that cable 2 comes from the panel may be incorrect. Mechanical switches are direction agnostic, they don't care which is supply-hot and which is switched-hot. Smart switches do. The switch needs supply hot on its (presumably) black. Then, it will power up even ...


4

This can be done with wireless smart bulbs (or fixtures) and a remote switch in place of your current light switch. I'm going to describe how to do it with the Phillips Hue series, since I'm more familiar with them, but other brands will probably work just as well. For the lights themselves, if you have not already bought the fixtures, you can get Hue ...


4

Don't downgrade to a plastic box. Metal boxes are better and what's more, they are often essential in distributing grounding to other boxes. Further in some cities (e.g. Chicago) they are required by Code. The purpose of a box is to provide grounding and fire protection, and metal boxes do that better than plastic ones in all respects. Plastic boxes ...


4

That is correct. In the mains power world, we have 3 wires. EQUIPMENT SAFETY GROUND/EARTH which is not used for anything ever (except during a fault condition, of course)... HOT which is what humans consider the "source" of power... and NEUTRAL which is what humans consider the "power return". Obviously, it's AC, which makes "source" vs "return" ...


4

Because unlike a normal switch, the wifi switch needs power, so it needs a neutral wire to complete a circuit at the switch between the unswitched hot wire and neutral for that power. The neutral wire to the switch cannot be a light-gauge wire (at least if you are in an area subject to NEC codes; likely similar elsewhere in the world) because codes are ...


4

You still have to comply with Building Codes The Building Codes are crystal clear: There must be a physical switch, in a quasi-standard location (you can walk into any room anywhere and your hand knows the 2-3 places to grope for a switch). The switch must be accessible by people who aren't you, and the switch must operate a light that works. That ...


4

The black wire from the /2 cable needs to be pigtailed to the LINE terminals on both devices We know, from your testing, that the black wire from the /2 cable is the incoming always-hot wire; this means that the black and red wires from the /3 cable are the outgoing switched-hots for the two sets of lights this box controls. Therefore, we wire the box as ...


4

Switches (only) can ground through the mounting screws No need to run a ground wire to the switch. Presuming the switch has a metal yoke, it will ground via the grounding screws to the metal box (presuming it is grounded). Is it grounded? It's difficult to say whether the box is grounded. In 1960 all the boxes were metal, so that alone doesn't tell us ...


3

The garage door needs safety switches, as well as a reversing switch, a switch to detect end of travel (limit switch) and a switch to detect that correct force has been applied to keep the door closed. Simply turning the power to the whole door-opener on and off does nothing. If you want to use the Gosund outlet to bypass the remote control terminals, you'...


3

Assuming both your switches and your GFCI have their line terminals on top and load terminals on the bottom, yes, this is correct. Double-check that that's the case on your actual devices, because while the way you show it is common, I've seen some that are the opposite as well. Also, you should pigtail the ground to the GFCI -- it doesn't need to run ...


3

You're looking for a product that works just like industry standard, connected smart switches, but is not industry standard, not connected, and uses a proprietary radio frequency. That wouldn't have much of a market, would it? From what you're saying, it sounds like you see the market as "it's cheaper", and you hope that incompatibility and low feature ...


3

You say that you control the lights with a “remote” and there is no smart switch. Sorry to tell you, but there must be some sort of smart switch which is receiving the signal and controlling the light. It may be part of the light fixture. Anyway, smart switches that don’t connect to a neutral wire have to get power by trickling current through the load. ...


3

The 2 blacks at the bottom will be the live from the breaker and the live to the outlets. There will be another place where the wire continues to the other outlet. The red and black are going to the fan/light. The reason for 2 wires being switched is to allow easy upgrade from single switch to a combo switch that controls the light and fan separately. The ...


3

You don't have neutral in that box! Yellow/green is the one wire whose color code is is standardized worldwide: yellow/green, green or bare.c It always means safety earthing. Anywhere you might have used those for neutral, you must correct that. Whoever taught you that is wrong, and full of shortcuts which are unsafe. Misusing ground for neutral is ...


3

A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also. It looks like A is a pigtail from ...


3

The wiring as presented makes no sense. To start with, we can determine the upper left Romex goes to the light now controlled by the left dimmer. The upper right /3 Romex red wire provides switched-hot for that lamp, and its black wire is always-hot for onward loads. The lower left Romex is presumably supply. (it's remotely possible the /3 includes supply ...


3

The old smart switch is not capable of controlling a fan and light separately... and you never claimed it did. That means your 3 cables are Supply (always-hot) Onward (always-hot) power to something else (Switched-hot) power to the fan/light First, all grounds get nutted together with a pigtail that you'll need to buy, and get pushed into the back of the ...


3

I fear that my answer will lend itself to opinion, and the question you asked is definitely written so that you are asking for an opinion, but given some important facts, and assumptions you made that are at least in part mistakes; perhaps this will help: In my house built around ~1970 all ceiling lamps are wired in a way where neutral wire is in light ...


3

I'm not concerned about the neutral problem (new houses have them, old houses are gradually being upgraded, and there are some smart switches that can work without a neutral). Easy Access But I am very concerned about ease of access when things go wrong. And the more complex they are (microcontrollers instead of a simple switch), the more likely something ...


3

What you have there are cables, not conduits. A 3-way switch has 2 travelers that must necessaily be in the same conduit or cable. On your setup, that can only describe the white and red from the upper cable/conduit. 3-way switches have 1 more terminal (other than ground), which is called common. Lo and behold, there is one loose wire left in your ...


2

Easy peasy lemon squeezy...pigtail your neutral from the bundle to the other switch.


2

Dollars to donuts, this is an RR7 kind of deal In this system, you have a relay back at the service panel or control cabinet. You then run 24V low-voltage power to each switch and motion sensor. The most common, the RR7, is a latching relay. If you send control power to the relay for 1 second, it "throws the relay over" and it stays there until it's ...


2

It is not possible to give you an answer to your question that covers the exact details because there are a range of different technologies in use for smart devices. I will list a few of them here: 1) Some smart devices use proprietary wireless RF connections to a hub device that then in turn connects to your network. The hub knows how to search for devices ...


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