Hot answers tagged

8

That is not normal or acceptable workmanship. The correct response to a foundation that far out of specification is to require the foundation contractors to rip it out and try again, or not get paid. Clearly that point was missed. The larger problem for you is that you are already entered into a contract with an incompetent, lying builder. I'd have your ...


7

If it was poured onto an already existing slab, I would try separating it from the slab first to see if it can be broken away and leave the floor intact. Note: The pad should weigh about 815 pounds (370 kg) so light duty efforts are inappropriate. Obtain two heavy steel digging bars like this along with some scrap 2x4s or similar. With heavy gloves on, ...


6

You should get a batch mix for this so that you can continuous pour it from end to end in a short period of time. This is the best way to assure a uniformity and even drying time for the whole slab. Mixing in small batches often ends up with one end ready for finishing when you are still messing around with mixing at the other end. When you get it all ...


5

If you want to do radiant infloor heating you will need to insulate under the slab. If you don't you will constantly be rejecting heat to the ground underneath the slab, and it will suck excess heat out of the system. If your not going to insulate beneath the slab, abandon the idea of radiant infloor. Your also going to have to use HE Pex for radiant ...


5

Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


5

Sigh. Cheap builders are forever spending thousands on concrete, but unwilling to spend a few hundred on steel to make the concrete properly reenforced. Nobody sees the steel, but the lack of it does show up eventually. Unlikely to be a major issue, might be a path for water or bugs, so probably sealing it would be best. But consulting an engineer is good ...


4

thank you so much for the advice and comments. The inspectpr came by yesterday and confirmed our concerns! He is going to fail the framing inspection and has provided a write up for all the items we were questioning. Keeping our eyes peeled for any issues moving forward.


4

10 stout men to tip the slabs on edge, then log rollers, Egyptian style. Maybe a bit of ramp to get them up to their final resting place.


4

155 pounds per cubic foot seems a typical number for concrete. A cubic foot is 12x12x12 inches, or 1,728 cubic inches. Your larger slab comes to 7,625.75 ci and should be right about 684 lbs. Your smaller slabs should be about 464 lbs each. If they have not cured for a month or so, they will be weak/fragile as well as heavy. So you might want to think about ...


4

It has always been "tie wire". Just do a search, that is all you will come up with.


4

If you don't care about leaks (or want drainage, so the dog is drier) forming the rim, pouring the rim, and then pouring the central slab is similar to whats typically done in a house basement. The joint between the rim and the slab will generally leak. If you pour a slab and then pour the raised edges on top, expect failure - if to scale, those are very ...


4

Probably low-stress, may not need anything much, but in the "better safe than sorry" mode I'd drill half-inch holes around the edges and stick reinforcing rod into them anyway. Steel is cheap compared to the rest of the job (labor and concrete cost.) That also deals with the "lock in" aspect better than chiseling. You won't change the drainage under the ...


4

Insulated slabs usually have vapor barrier underneath. Since you did a test and found no moisture, there should be no problem installing vinyl flooring on it.


4

Lots of slabs are covered in carpet without any problem. It depends on your specific slab. To know you need to test the slab. Take a trash bag tape it down to the floor. In 24 hours pull it up. If the floor looks damp or there is moisture on the bag a barrier will be needed if it is dry no barrier is needed. I have epoxy painted to seal damp floors made a ...


3

Use a biscuit joiner. Then glue and clamp to dry. But depends what you using them for. There not going to be heaps strong if the timber spands over a distance.


3

Back in the day, at least my day, the building code allowed for a maximum of a 1" corbel (extention). I do not see any cracks in the photo that suggests shifting has occurred. If there is a basement or maybe not, while the foundation is laid, or in the case of concrete, while it is poured, the top of the wall can rack out of square. The break between the ...


3

If you don't have gutters and the grading around your house isn't sloped away, I'd start there. It's relatively cheap to do and will eliminate most problems. It's also nice, if you have a door at the bottom of a roof edge, to not enter under a waterfall. Once you've done that (or if it's not possible to fix the grading) and the foundation is still wicking ...


3

Yes, it's a vent for a toilet. If it were an in-floor shower, you might see a P-trap and vent, but the toilet has the trap included in the fixture. The reason you see the vent here and not other locations is that a sink will be vented starting in the wall rather than inside the floor, and the toilet is often after the sink, making the line from the sink to ...


3

Plumbing in concrete slabs pretty much requires ripping the floor open to make any changes to it. I suppose if you chose a new toilet with a LARGE base and were very careful you MIGHT be able to keep all the floor damage under it, but that's making assumptions that you'll be able to rework cast iron pipes (not the most cooperative things) through a fairly ...


3

After a lot of time wandering the faster aisle at my local Ace, I ended up finding a rubber grommet that fit snugly around the 6d nails I am using. I then took the grommet and found a fender washer that fit the grommet inside it (ended up being a 1/2" washer). Then I drilled a hole in the floating bottom plate large enough for the grommet to drop into (...


3

Normally your drain pipes are ABS plastic having them bedded in the rock is fine. If your supply is copper (I do not recommend copper under a slab) it should be coated so the corrosive effects will not cause pin holes. I have had to replace several sets of copper pipe under a slab it is very expensive the houses were not very old maybe 20 years. I would use ...


3

You do not want to just place the concrete tiles on native ground soil. A proper installation would be to dig out the native soil down to a solid base. Then lay in a layer of crushed rock to aid in water drainage. Directly under the concrete tiles would be some sand that makes it possible to level and even out the tile installation. With the correct ...


3

Those small dimples are unlikely to ever be a problem, but if you want peace of mind, get some vinyl repair patch material and skim it on with a wide putty knife or trowel.


3

If the tile is well bonded, there's no reason to remove it. I would use construction adhesive under your wall plate, and I would use a masonry drill to put holes through the tile for your fasteners. If someone wants to replace the tile down the road, they'll end up making the same cuts you would have. Why do it now if it may never need to be done at all? ...


3

I suspect Tyson is right about the old holes being from termite treatment (although they should be 1' apart for that, so it would have been a crappy, ineffective treatment job). If they were from previous jacking and the slabs now need jacking, that would kind of indicate that jacking isn't a good long-term solution (and there are lots of reports that such ...


3

If you “jack”...you crack. That slab weighs a minimum of 5,000 lbs. (4” thick) and will crack when you start jacking it up a few inches. Little known fact, concrete only has a tensile strength of 55 lbs. per square inch (as compared to compressive strength of 2500 psi ). When one edge is lifted, the top of the slab is in compression and the bottom is in ...


3

Natural stone slabs are typically glued down if they are small enough to be moved when bumped against. Larger slabs, sometimes are staying put under its own weight, yet sometimes they get glued too. The glue used can be anything from silicone to construction adhesive. In either case, the best way to release the glue, if there is a chance of salvaging it is ...


3

The answer depends on your level of physical ability and ambition, and is therefore mostly subjective. There are plenty of folks who could do it. I wouldn't try it myself at my age and level of fitness. Concrete is really freaking heavy. I would want some additional labor on hand. I attempted to finish a sidewalk and garage apron on my own when my help had ...


3

You want to pour a slab of 40 square feet (so something like 5 by 8) and four inches thick. Let's break it down with numbers: I'm imagining about 1 bag per square foot, so you want approximately 40 bags (that might be a conservative estimate for 60-lb bags). You mention a concrete-mixing device which you roll back and forth several feet in order to mix. I'...


3

You should mix according to how you want the concrete to flow. Watering the forms and the ground before you pour is important when the climate is dry and hot. You are correct that the water mix affects the strength of the final product, but not as much as you may think. The most important factor is how much Portland is in the mix, and second, how fast it ...


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