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Wikipedia In architecture, a baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, mopboard, floor molding, as well as base molding) is a (generally wooden) board covering the lowest part of an interior wall. Its purpose is to cover the joint between the wall surface and the floor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baseboard The purpose of a baseboard is ...


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Trim in most all forms (window casings, baseboards, even crown moulding at times) is primarily there to make the finishing between two different surfaces easier. Done well, they also add detail, of course, but for the most part, it's a practical solution first and foremost. You could certainly do what you propose, but some of the challenges you will run ...


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As for the gaps between the bottom of the base board (skirting) and the floor ... that is normally covered over with a base shoe molding. Base shoe is a small dimension molding that can be pressed down to fit the variations in the floor surface. Base shoe molding is normally only skipped when carpeting is going to be installed on the floor. A nice trick ...


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Skirting is purely aesthetic. It doesn't stop damp transmission itself, but just hides a gap where floorboards meet wall. In the article you quoted, the important words are: ...concealing the necessary gap between wooden floorboards and masonry to prevent transmission of damp... They are saying that if wooden floorboards are in contact with masonry ...


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Laminate requires an expansion gap. When installed without a gap, laminate buckles up as the flooring heats and expands. Leaving the gap exposed would be unsightly, so the floor trim should be installed over the laminate. Tile likewise should have an expansion gap when installed over a dissimilar material, like wood subfloor. If the gap around the perimeter ...


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Yes, carpet can be installed without removing the skirting because slightly uneven carpet edges can be stuffed down between the tack strips and the skirting. For wood and tile, straight edges are harder to come by and even a 1/16 of an inch looks bad. The same goes for vinyl, that straight edge will be hard to get. Your alternative to removing the skirting ...


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Your inclination is correct. A straight pull outward could chip the new paint. Your second inclination is also correct. You should carefully cut through the paint at the paper with a sharp utility knife (sometimes called a razor knife). Hold it horizontally, with a very slight downward angle at the join of the molding and paper. If you have difficulty ...


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You're renting, so... Get it in writing from the landlord that it's OK to make permanent changes like this. Otherwise you risk losing your damage deposit. Yeah, even though you're making it better, some may get picky. Better safe than sorry. Oh, did I mention get it in writing? To spiff up the existing trim: Use some sandpaper on a sanding block (a fancy ...


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Because all the floor coverings you mention expand / contract as the temperature changes, but carpet does not.


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Baseboard typically goes in before padded carpeting and after commercial carpeting or carpet tiles. The reason is because padded carpeting can be easily and neatly tucked under base trim, and it's more difficult to install base trim at a uniform height over padded carpeting. On the other hand, you want your base to be down snug against low-pile commercial ...


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You could do it either way. I probably would not put carpet in a laundry room as that area is more subject to spills, like a kitchen, and it’s harder to clean up detergent or water from carpet than vinyl, but...if you choose it, then: there are advantages to either order. The carpet tiles may need trimming and putting the baseboard on last will cover the ...


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I would use something like one of these utility knives to slit the edge of the paint to allow the paper to pull out. Using a scalpel would not be recommended because there is much less control of the cutting device.


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There are a few different options that I'd consider: Ordering made-to-measure skirting for the dining room that's taller than the skirting you have the kitchen, but with the same top profile. This allows the tops of all skirting (and hence the grooves) to line up. Stepping it down with a transition piece. You can either cut at 45 degrees and have the ...


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UPDATED: I misread about the masonry walls. I've actually installed base trim using trim screws and plastic plug anchors. It works fine, but the holes in the trim are larger. ORIGINAL: Glue is only used for joints, and nails pull out of the wall fairly easily when the boards are removed. They can then be pulled through the boards from the back side so ...


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As others have pointed out, the two main reasons are practicality and aesthetics. It is much easier to build with a baseboard. But also, you are fixing cosmetic imperfections that will look incredibly jarring to the eye if they were left exposed. Notice, for example, that baseboards often times also have a "quarter round" attached to them (example). The ...


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This is more a matter of opinion than anything where one way is clearly best. I'd likely mitre the end of the board, and trim so the end of the mitre was the same thickness as the tile trim, and either butt them together or leave a gap and caulk it.


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Nope -- cross that task off your list! Seriously, skirting boards (aka baseboard or baseboards to feed the search engine) are cosmetic. If you can't see them, you don't need them. They'll get in the way when you're trying to push the dishwasher back that last little bit. (Some people think they keep creatures out... the simple fact is that if you have ...


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This looks like someone didn't want to cut tile to do the job right. I'm not sure the skirting material is even being used correctly. Yes, you could use white silicone caulk on both edges and seal up that corner but it would still look bad. If this was my tub, I'd pull all that skirting out or using a utility knife cut it out. Clean all the surfaces and ...


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As for the best way to solve this properly, I'd say "put the house on a foundation" but that's clearly not what you are looking for. Digging the trench to the point(s) where the water and sewer connect and then building an insulated box with a hard skin to keep animals out of it (cementboard or metal) to contain the pipes running vertically. Otherwise you'...


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You would drill from below with a long bit. I assume you wall is typical studs with drywall or plaster. You should be able to get enough angle for the hole to come out in the wall. Do this before you insert the box. Then you can run your wire into the box before mounting it.


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I would use the type of knife specified in the other answer(s) but I'd advise doing a "test cut" in a less conspicuous area first. My inclination is to hold the knife as vertical as possible and cut the paint and paper at the same time and thus cutting off the exposed paper while leaving the paper that is hidden underneath in place. There's much less ...


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