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3

This is the waste drain vent penetration through the cabinet which would lead into the wall where it would join up with both the vent going to the roof and the drain that likely goes down and hooks into other bathrooms that are stacked below yours. For air sealing, I'd use air sealing tape. tescon-vana blue air sealing tape or if you want to go cheap you ...


3

You are correct that there is trim made for this, but if you've never seen one the term for it is hard to figure out... It's called a pipe escutcheon and they come in two flavors. If you can disconnect the pipe and slip the pipe escutcheon over the end, the single piece models look better and will seal better. If you don't want to mess with the pipe, they ...


2

Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your ...


2

Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.


12

Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down. AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal. OR ...


12

In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the ...


4

The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the ...


7

You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap. Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup ...


3

The drain pipe on your sink goes straight down, but then it should go through a U-shape and go back up again for a few inches, and then go on its merry way. This U-shaped bit of pipe has a name, and Admiral Ackbar really wants to say it... Anyway, the idea of this "trap" is that the U is supposed to stay full of water all the time, all the way up to the ...


1

Might be a "washing machine adapter" or "dishwasher adapter" - same thing, really - a quick-connect fitting to allow use of an appliance via hose at full-bore flow. Not the same as the one I use for my bottlewasher, but I'm sure there are multiple incompatible designs out there. Anyway, you can unscrew it and have the normal threads available.


2

That is just a cheap plastic aerator and should unscrew. Turn clockwise looking down on the faucet. There will probably be female threads in the faucet. Good luck.


1

Depending upon the problem and / or age, attempting to rotate the drum is the very best way to get it working again. If you let it "hum" long enough, it will trip the overload in the unit and you'd have to reset it. Kudos to you for not going that route. Use a stout piece of wood, maybe like 3 ft long, like a plunger handle to move it. If that does not ...


2

Try inserting a broom stick into the disposal and try to pry the round plate connected to the motor..... this will give you more leverage that the Allen wrench.


2

I believe you are talking about the p trap or U bend. The old metal drain lines do wear out because of acids in food, I know many years back I bought a place that looked good but the chrome plating was all that was left on some of the pipe it developed a small leak when I went to pull it it crumbled like an eggshell. Most of the modern drain cleaners won’t ...


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