Hot answers tagged

71

I'd be going at it with a strongest vacuum you can come up with. Maybe put a nylon stocking over the end of the hose so the earring doesn't get damaged flying down the pipe.


15

If you absolutely, positively, must know for certain that you've hooked the earring, the whole earring, and nothing but the earring, then you want an endoscope: An inexpensive USB or WiFi endoscope with attachments costs somewhere around $10 US. All you need to do is connect the endoscope to a phone or a laptop and use it like a webcam. Using the hook ...


13

Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down. AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal. OR ...


12

In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the ...


11

You could try a flexible claw pickup. Press the end, the claws open, let go and they close:


7

You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap. Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup ...


6

Worst case cut the glued mess off and use a trap with compression rings a pvcckit at big box store 8-9$ . You will need a longer pice to the right 1-2$ more then everything is adjusted to the drain without pressure on it. They even make fancy chrome plated plastic for ~20 since you are upgrading if you want to. I would not use those flex tail pieces I ...


5

A crapshoot might be your best shot. Try getting a few pipe cleaners and bend a hook on the ends and go fishing. They are flexible and won't wedge the earring further down the drain. Some light gauge wire, like bell wire, would probably work too.


4

The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the ...


4

I'll try to answer your questions as stated. Minimum height difference I'm not sure if there is a code for this, but it's good practice to have the bottom of the disposal drain higher than the top of the drain into the wall. So a height difference of at least one pipe-width. But, as long as the bottom of your tailpiece is higher than the wall drain, the ...


3

The drain pipe on your sink goes straight down, but then it should go through a U-shape and go back up again for a few inches, and then go on its merry way. This U-shaped bit of pipe has a name, and Admiral Ackbar really wants to say it... Anyway, the idea of this "trap" is that the U is supposed to stay full of water all the time, all the way up to the ...


3

This is the waste drain vent penetration through the cabinet which would lead into the wall where it would join up with both the vent going to the roof and the drain that likely goes down and hooks into other bathrooms that are stacked below yours. For air sealing, I'd use air sealing tape. tescon-vana blue air sealing tape or if you want to go cheap you ...


3

You are correct that there is trim made for this, but if you've never seen one the term for it is hard to figure out... It's called a pipe escutcheon and they come in two flavors. If you can disconnect the pipe and slip the pipe escutcheon over the end, the single piece models look better and will seal better. If you don't want to mess with the pipe, they ...


3

The white material that is flaking off looks like an insulation/sound deadening coat applied by the sink manufacturer. It wasn't supposed to come off. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a quick & easy solution. The white material looks friable (it breaks up into dust). I see the white dust on your garbage disposal unit. If the sink is over a couple ...


3

A simple and cheap solution is a flexible drain unclog stick (there's no real accepted trade name). They have hooks or tabs on the sides to grip things in the drain and pull them back out. Most hardware and general purpose stores carry them.


3

You should be able to turn the clamp nut by the wall... ...which will allow the horizontal portion of the drain connection to pull out of the wall. It may have enough slide connection so it can be reclamped to use the existing pipe to reach the new down spout on the sink. If it is not long enough then you will need to purchase new parts to achieve a ...


3

The green stuff is cupric chloride, a byproduct of corrosion of the valve body. It's typical of water leakage where the water is of low pH. It's usually found on copper pipes. Your pipes have been painted so it's not forming on them but you do have untreated copper going into the valve. Make sure all the connection are tight.


3

Water heater anodes usually last about 3 to 5 years or so depending on the chemistry and hardness of your water, so chances are, if your water heater is only 3 years old, that's not the problem. That being said, it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the anode and make sure it's doing OK. The top of the anode rod is typically visible on the top of your water ...


2

unscrew the nut under the sink and then you can turn the lever counter clockwise, sometimes there is plumbers putty that makes it hard to unscrew the lever without taking the nut under the sink off, watch this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc7Q5666yoU


2

Try inserting a broom stick into the disposal and try to pry the round plate connected to the motor..... this will give you more leverage that the Allen wrench.


2

I believe you are talking about the p trap or U bend. The old metal drain lines do wear out because of acids in food, I know many years back I bought a place that looked good but the chrome plating was all that was left on some of the pipe it developed a small leak when I went to pull it it crumbled like an eggshell. Most of the modern drain cleaners won’t ...


2

Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your ...


2

Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.


2

That is just a cheap plastic aerator and should unscrew. Turn clockwise looking down on the faucet. There will probably be female threads in the faucet. Good luck.


2

In your 4th photo you have the sanitary tee oriented improperly ( horizontally instead of vertically ) but in your 6th photo you have it correct ( but you have an incorrect fitting on the top ). The sanitary tee will sit on the straight drain pipe going down through the bottom of the cabinet, it will accept the pipe coming from the trap. Depending on space ...


2

You can see the angled mounting bracket hanging down under the sink. The bracket is what holds the sink firmly on the wall, the lower holes in the sink are for keeping the bottom of the sink from being pulled away and up from the wall once it is lowered down onto the bracket. The top holes have nothing to do with the mounting of the sink. The bracket ...


2

Both of those screws loosen counterclockwise. Spray some WD-40 on them and let it soak in for a bit. There is a washer or "o" ring at the base of the spout or in the base of the valve. hit that big nut with some WD-40 and turn it counterclockwise too loosen. you might have to loosen the supply nuts to get an adjustable wrench in there, a pair of ...


2

Yes, the solvent welded elbow above the trap does makes things challenging. How excited are you to completely remove the old trap and elbow? It's likely the connection can be made using the existing trap. Swing it a little to either side, cut the old riser short, and use a pair of 45° elbows to make a jog in the riser to align with the new sink tail piece. ...


2

I have had the ball /pivot plugged up with hair and toothpaste more than once. I usually use a pair of pliers and a little force to remove it, in one case I had to remove the drain and use a long handled screwdriver to pry it out from the inside, once it was clean it slid back in place no problem. So give it a bit of force and it will come out.


2

I would use something wider than a 1x6 - why not? Even if the mounting plate is smaller, the wider board will be easier to hit, and will be stronger. If yellow pine or douglas fir are available they are a lot stronger than white pine. I don't trust toe-nail attachments with skinny boards. The old school way to do it would to be notch the studs so the ...


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