I applaud your effort at frugality and environmentalism. The "throwaway" mindset peeves me to no end. Many folks change out fixtures just to change the look or size, and there are plenty of good units to be had. In fact, I'll soon be swapping out a perfectly serviceable round-bowl toilet for an elongated one just to better accommodate an add-on bidet.
That sounds like a good problem to have. Go to the store and get a lag screw, and use that instead.
Attaching the sink to a stud is preferable, and will offer a more solid install.
Hanging a sink from drywall, sounds like a bad idea to begin with. So I'd say you got lucky to hit the stud.
I'll echo the comment and say that you should make sure you have a proper P-trap installed under the sink. This trap holds water and provides a seal against sewer gases getting up into the bathroom. Without one, gases will leak in constantly, and will be displaced by water down the drain which can force the gases up into the bathroom even if normally it's ...
If the top item is near your kitchen sink then this probably an air gap for your dish washer drain system. The purpose of the air gap is to prevent back flow siphoning from the sink drain back into the dish washer.
The lower item is definitely a timer unit. The dark colored thing under the timer dial appears to be a switch that has positions of OFF, FULL ...
Does it smell when you turn on the tap and catch the water in a bowl (so it doesn't go down the drain)?
If so, it's something in the faucet. Take off the aerator cap and look for gunk inside, and/or look in the barrel of the faucet if you can to clean it out. You can also consider replacing the faucet. (I am assuming that since this only affects the ...
The most common I've seen.
Filtered water faucet.
A Plug to fill the unused hole.
Most single hole faucets come with an extra base piece that covers up the old unused holes.
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
This is an air gap fitting for your dishwasher drain. You still need it. Its job is to ensure that waste water in your drain cannot backup into your dishwasher. Since the dishwasher isn't really water tight above a certain level, this eliminates the risk of raw sewage from ending up on your floor via the dishwasher. The air gap needs to be above the flood ...
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the ...
The valve needs to be downstream of the trap, basically in the position an actual vent would be.
Also, be sure they're legal where you are. My local inspector forced me to run a new vent line and tie into the existing stack above the upstairs sink drain when I wanted to add a laundry drain.
This could be caused by higher than normal water pressure, that's why the noise changes when you turn on the sink (you reduce the flow to the shower).
You could adjust the Pressure Reducing Valve for the whole house (if you have one), or install one on the line to the shower.
In most newer shower heads, there ...
For inexperienced DIYers; or any body not really comfortable with plumbing in general, the easiest option is to replace the whole faucet. While the faucet may be serviceable, stuck screws/bolts, proprietary disassembly steps, and difficulty finding replacement parts, make this a frustrating job for beginners.
The new faucet should come with instructions ...
Plumbers don't have x-ray eyes, sometimes they need to scope a pipe to find the problem. This does not make him a bad/lazy plumber. It just means he doesn't carry the scope in his truck, or the company has a special technician, who is the only one who runs the camera. Let the company scope the drain so they can see what they are dealing with, at which time ...
That sludge is really just a mix of soap, water, skin cells, hair, tooth paste and all the other lovely stuff that goes down your drain. I doubt it is fungus.
You can't really prevent it. There are all sorts of chemical and non-chemical mixtures you can try to clean it out, but I think removing the trap and cleaning it out is the best bet. If the trap is ...
Unfortunately, you have gotten yourself into a situation that is most likely going to require opening the wall to replumb the water supplies and possibly the drain. If you have access to the back through another wall, then you will not have to remove some tiles. If you don't have access, then you have to open it up from the front, not an easy job. The ...
The tube of caulk should include drying and curing times. It will vary based on the product so you definitely want to go by the manufacturer's recommendation and not some general guideline on the web somewhere.
You are not the only person who does not want to have to wait a day or two before using their sink and bathtub and the caulk manufacturers know ...
Your sink doesn't drain properly because the water has to go up hill to drain. The right way to fix this is to remove this elbow:
And then re-plumb it like this (but flipped horizontally):
You will probably have to replace the existing tailpieces to get enough clearance.
You seem to have way more piping that you actually need. Some points to be made reference this picture:
There is freedom to rotate the whole disposer to optimize the piping.
You should be able to cut off a portion of the disposer tail piece at (A).
You should be able to eliminate part (B) and the elbow (E) to the left of it.
The sliding connection part of ...
Start by making a template.
Using a dry-erase marker, draw a line on the sink where it will meet the new cabinet cutout. You can hold a ruler flat against the rectangular piece shown in the photo to guide the marker.
Temporarily remove the currently installed rectangle and replace it with a rectangle of material from which the template will be cut.
A 1 1/4" female FIP adapter worked perfectly. As soon as I saw it, I was embarassed for not having thought of it earlier.
I used some teflon tape, screwed the FIP adapter onto the adapter coming out of the wall, then just glued my 1 1/4" pipe directly into it. No reduction in pipe sizes, and 100% ABS parts.
There are three things you need to consider:
You NEED to find solid framing, probably uprights studs. You need serious screws/lag bolts into those studs. The sink is sure to come with mounting instructions as to exactly how to attach, but framing is a key. Masonry hanging may be possible, but you will need very deep, serious ...
I would not recommend treating the area in the center rear of the sink as a "knock out". Trying to remove that portion of the sink with a hammer is foolhardy at best and could lead to splintered and cracked procelain on the top side of your sink.
You would be far better off to apply a hole saw made for this type application. Here is an example of a diamond ...
Remove the trap from the tailpiece of the wash bowl and see if it needs cleaning.
Check your main vent stack that goes through the roof for any obstructions. Verify that a bird has not made a nest there.
If the sink was not installed by a plumber and has always had this problem, an air vent pipe may not have been installed or was installed incorrectly.
If you remove the P-Trap (the S shaped pipe) from the drain of the sink, then yes, you need to plug that pipe up as well.
The toilet drain has no trap - the toilet itself is the trap, and so it will need to be plugged regardless.
For the drain to the sink, its often easiest to simply affix a permanent cap on the drain pipe and then cut that off when ...
Sounds like the drain after the disposal and connection to the other sink is partially blocked. I'd start with a drain cleaner that's designed for a partial blockage. In the kitchen, it's likely a buildup from cooking oils and grease that got into the drain. If that doesn't work, then you can remove the trap under your sink and remove as much crud from it as ...
This is contra turn taps usually used for lever handle taps so they both turn away from the wall on a basin or turn both down in a shower or similar if used in vertical eg. Shower above and below you would get normal taps not contras so that they both turn in the same direction which are the ones that you are used to. Also re reading your post it seems that ...
That isn't how gravity works.
Drains like sinks are typically gravity drains where the water is drawn down into the drainpipe... by gravity.
This is in contrast to things like washing-machines where the wastewater is pumped out into standpipes.
In order to drain your sink via a standpipe above the fixture you'll need a drain pump or drain into a sump and ...
There is no "right way", but the "theory" is:
On a loose fitting (fitting has play inside the hole), placing the putty on the sink will create a better seal on the area actually making contact. On a tighter fitting, placing the putty on the flange will seal the areas closer to the center leaving less room for voids. See this diagram (tight fitting on top, ...