Hot answers tagged

30

WHAT...??? You can do this. You’re working on the outside of the house so you don’t need a tent or fans. (They have the fans going the wrong way anyway. If you were working inside the house, you want negative pressure not positive pressure. This is obviously not their forte.) Keep it wet and try to do it without breaking it. Stop by an asbestos abatement ...


22

No. Hire a licensed, EPA certified asbestos abatement company. This is not a DIY job. Asbestos exposure isn't like a disease or injury after which you heal. The risk is cumulative: the fibers stay in your lungs until you die of lung cancer or die of something else. (Legal) disposal will be difficult, since your local landfill probably won't accept it. ...


22

I would procure a sheet of aluminum or steel (available at home improvement and hardware stores), fold a suitable hem at the bottom, and slide it up behind both courses of siding (above and below the holes). Friction will probably keep it in place for the short term, but you could dab some silicone behind to lock it in. | |<-- upper siding course | | ...


19

Mount a board on the wall and then mount the screen on the board. Get an 8 foot cedar or pressure treated 2x6, you can then use timber screws to mount it to the wall insuring you hit the studs. You will need to pre-drill both the 2x6 and the cement siding, the hole in the siding should be as big as the screw and the hole in the board should be just smaller ...


18

I used to be a certified asbestos remover in Europe, where we have pretty stringent asbestos removal laws. Usually it's only legal for a person to remove things alone under a certain quantity(3 big sheets of roofing for example) but at a certain volume or with certain materials(cloth, prone to breaking/turning to dust) you're required to hire a company who ...


14

The asbestos shingles on a 1920’s house were typically applied over the original wood siding in the 50’s or 60’s. Thus, there is more than likely excellent existing siding hiding beneath. There is a small tool specially made for removing nails - five bucks at the hardware store. The siding to be removed has been painted many times and this coating minimizes ...


12

If you have threaded iron gas pipe coming into the house, expect a MUCH MUCH larger job that it looks like if you do that - you have to start at the loose end of that pipe and back every joint out, one at a time, until you get to the siding. The typical way of handling that situation with solid siding (clapboards, shakes, etc) is to cut a notch in the ...


12

HD and Lowes to my knowledge do not have any contractors on staff. Meaning that they outsource all of their services to local contractors. Pros you get a warranty from a company you know will probably honor it in a year you can sometimes - not all the time - use their financing and may be able to have zero interest for a year if your credit is good ...


12

First, you need to understand what "dry rot" is. The name itself is misleading, except that infected wood becomes brittle and crumbling when it is dry. Basically, dry rot is a fungus. In dry conditions it is dormant, but if there is moisture available and the temperature is warm enough (and that only means "cool", in terms of weather conditions, not "hot") ...


12

Do not try to use caulk between all the boards. It will look like crap and on top of that, like you already indicated, it will be hard to put in there in the first place. The proper approach to this is to install vertical strips of wood over the cracks from the outside. You can choose to use something like 1x2 inch cedar strips. Or if your shed looks like ...


8

Wow, he didn't really care much about craftsmanship. No drip loop sucks; see if there is any slack where you could pull it down a bit into a gentle loop and use a zip-tie to hold the shape (don't kink it). Really all I can see you doing is globbing silicone sealant around it; use the paintable type and maybe you could make it look a bit better by painting ...


7

I've dealt with this issue by using chains (although, not outdoors, and it was a more permanent installation, so I didn't have to keep hanging & removing it). Basically, you attach brackets at the studs as high as you can, and attach chains to them. You then attach the screen to the end of the chains. You want the brackets to be as high up as possible,...


6

The purpose of the extension on a frost free faucet is to get the valve itself in a heated space inside of your home so that it could never freeze (see the below diagram). If you only have an inch or so of insulation that's being penetrated by these plumbing pipes, it's likely that the valve would still reach the freezing point inside of your wall. So any ...


6

1. New roof. If you've got a leaky roof, you've got big problems. 2. New Siding. Since it sounds like you'll be adjusting the thickness of the walls, it makes sense to complete this job before anything else that will be installed on/in the wall. 3. New Gutters. Depending on what shape the gutters are in, this might move up or down the list. If they are in ...


6

According to Home Depot's website, they provide a year of warranty on anything that is done. Of course this has the added benefit that they're a huge company with the ability to cover any problem you may find yourself in. On that note, any reputable contractor will have insurance sufficient to cover any mishap that they cause and should also warrant their ...


6

I would use a pice of plastic like from a binder and slip it up under the upper shingle and tape it for a temporary quick fix. I would not use a towel as any moisture that gets on the towel will be wicked inside. If you don’t have a binder or a thin piece of plastic , cover a piece of card board with a trash bag and slip it under the upper shingle. These are ...


5

Ed's suggestion is fine. Another option is to assume it will leak and built to allow it to happen as a rain screen wall. A rain screen wall has a waterproof interior, an air gap, then the exterior siding. Any water getting behind the siding can air dry within this gap.


5

There are multiple reasons that it degrades and "rots" from the bottom edge. The lowest point is where all water runs so that part is likely the last part to dry out. The lowest part of the wall gets less protection from any overhang of the roof. The siding material was probably left open with a raw edge at the bottom and the lower back side is exposed. ...


5

Wood meeting concrete in a damp area is never a good recipe. As porous as concrete is, its not even ideal that treated wood meets concrete. this is mostly because of the chance for standing water or leeching. My recommendation in this scenario would be to trim the wood siding ~1/4 inch minimally, or better yet 6" to 8" above the concrete area. If you go ...


5

Be as safe as possible and be as fast as possible. If it is legal to do it then: Do not do it by yourself. Ask a couple friends to help you. Do it all at once, no unnecessary breaks. All of you wear appropriate protection. Do not hesitate to ask the specialist. No free skin. Use some soft and tough guard between the pliers and the tile. Paint the tiles to ...


5

I would buy the similar 8 inch vents that were removed, insulate them properly to match wall insulation, and install as dummy vents.


5

Well, that's a bit messy looking! The best repair would be to remove the two damaged planks and replace them with new ones. Next best would be to cut back the planks away from the hole and replace the pieces that cross the hole. Next best would be to install flashings that cover the hole. Mold is definitely a possibility. I see moss growing on the insulation....


4

I'm with your painter. It's like throwing out a pair of Allen Edmunds because there's a hole in the sole and replacing them with a pair of Timberlands. Find out what it would cost to repair/replace the split boards. It'll probably be cheaper than redoing all the siding in a new/cheaper material. In addition you might lose some value in your home by ...


4

I don't think your friend's suggestion is bad, but I'd still want to be sure the caulk extended all the way to the exposed surface of the siding. Better not to let water get into the crack at all than to let it get in and stuck between siding and trim but blocked from penetrating further by caulk. Why? Because in winter, water that's in the crack will ...


4

Pine has been the traditional siding in the Northeastern US for several hundred years (along with cedar shingles). Painting is the standard protection. While numerous products are lower maintenance, if you have the skill (not too much required) and time to keep it up (a good bit required), it should be fine.


4

Pine is a poor choose for siding in the northeast, and it is far more expensive than spec grade vinyl siding. Even though pine is used often for trim, when it is used to side an entire building expect the following problems. Wider boards, 1/2 X 6 and larger have a habit of checking and cupping when exposed to prolonged heat and moisture. Exterior pine needs ...


4

Pine will work fine if prep on the wood is done correctly. Prime all ends, the back, the front and two coats of paint on front and ends. This is usually good for 10 plus years. Pine siding has been around on homes and barns in my northeast area of the US for well over 100 years. Some homes over 100 years old have the original wood barn siding as well as ...


4

Whether or not you want it has nothing to do with siding. It makes no difference to the siding. The point of housewrap (brand-neutral) is that it is vapor-permeable air-barrier - as such it can reduce drafts and air movement, and thus potentially reduce your heating and/or cooling costs.


4

Agreed with the research you found. Most vinyl siding, if installed correctly, will not require caulk at the sides of the windows and doors. Often there is actually a separate vinyl piece installed first at the side of the window that the ends of the siding tuck into. You are supposed to leave a gap at the end of the siding pieces to permit expansion and ...


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