Hot answers tagged

30

WHAT...??? You can do this. You’re working on the outside of the house so you don’t need a tent or fans. (They have the fans going the wrong way anyway. If you were working inside the house, you want negative pressure not positive pressure. This is obviously not their forte.) Keep it wet and try to do it without breaking it. Stop by an asbestos abatement ...


20

No. Hire a licensed, EPA certified asbestos abatement company. This is not a DIY job. Asbestos exposure isn't like a disease or injury after which you heal. The risk is cumulative: the fibers stay in your lungs until you die of lung cancer or die of something else. (Legal) disposal will be difficult, since your local landfill probably won't accept it. ...


19

Mount a board on the wall and then mount the screen on the board. Get an 8 foot cedar or pressure treated 2x6, you can then use timber screws to mount it to the wall insuring you hit the studs. You will need to pre-drill both the 2x6 and the cement siding, the hole in the siding should be as big as the screw and the hole in the board should be just smaller ...


17

I used to be a certified asbestos remover in Europe, where we have pretty stringent asbestos removal laws. Usually it's only legal for a person to remove things alone under a certain quantity(3 big sheets of roofing for example) but at a certain volume or with certain materials(cloth, prone to breaking/turning to dust) you're required to hire a company who ...


14

The asbestos shingles on a 1920’s house were typically applied over the original wood siding in the 50’s or 60’s. Thus, there is more than likely excellent existing siding hiding beneath. There is a small tool specially made for removing nails - five bucks at the hardware store. The siding to be removed has been painted many times and this coating minimizes ...


12

If you have threaded iron gas pipe coming into the house, expect a MUCH MUCH larger job that it looks like if you do that - you have to start at the loose end of that pipe and back every joint out, one at a time, until you get to the siding. The typical way of handling that situation with solid siding (clapboards, shakes, etc) is to cut a notch in the ...


12

HD and Lowes to my knowledge do not have any contractors on staff. Meaning that they outsource all of their services to local contractors. Pros you get a warranty from a company you know will probably honor it in a year you can sometimes - not all the time - use their financing and may be able to have zero interest for a year if your credit is good ...


12

First, you need to understand what "dry rot" is. The name itself is misleading, except that infected wood becomes brittle and crumbling when it is dry. Basically, dry rot is a fungus. In dry conditions it is dormant, but if there is moisture available and the temperature is warm enough (and that only means "cool", in terms of weather conditions, not "hot") ...


11

Do not try to use caulk between all the boards. It will look like crap and on top of that, like you already indicated, it will be hard to put in there in the first place. The proper approach to this is to install vertical strips of wood over the cracks from the outside. You can choose to use something like 1x2 inch cedar strips. Or if your shed looks like ...


9

Adding a brick facade to the lower front of your house may not be as easy as you may think. Your contractor may have issues with installing a footing to support the weight and proper backing to attach the brick ties, not to mention building out all the window and door jams to match the new depth. This could be a very expensive change. As far as adding ...


7

Wow, not exactly what I'd call decorative, but whatever. You can fill those gaps with Bondo auto body filler. Just be sure to clean out any loose or chipped paint etc. Auto body willer actually works better than wood filler in exterior applications.


7

I've dealt with this issue by using chains (although, not outdoors, and it was a more permanent installation, so I didn't have to keep hanging & removing it). Basically, you attach brackets at the studs as high as you can, and attach chains to them. You then attach the screen to the end of the chains. You want the brackets to be as high up as possible,...


6

I really think a palm sander is the wrong tool for this job. Palm sanders are great for finishing with finer grits but lack the power to remove layers of paint quickly. The siding job you are starting would go a lot faster with a 5 or 6 inch dual action (DA) sander with prepunched velcro backed sandpaper disks. There are several nice ones for under $100 and ...


6

The purpose of the extension on a frost free faucet is to get the valve itself in a heated space inside of your home so that it could never freeze (see the below diagram). If you only have an inch or so of insulation that's being penetrated by these plumbing pipes, it's likely that the valve would still reach the freezing point inside of your wall. So any ...


6

From the installation instructions Face nail with a 2" 6d or siding nail. For good measure you could put a dab of matching color caulk behind the nail head before you nail it all the way down.


6

1. New roof. If you've got a leaky roof, you've got big problems. 2. New Siding. Since it sounds like you'll be adjusting the thickness of the walls, it makes sense to complete this job before anything else that will be installed on/in the wall. 3. New Gutters. Depending on what shape the gutters are in, this might move up or down the list. If they are ...


6

According to Home Depot's website, they provide a year of warranty on anything that is done. Of course this has the added benefit that they're a huge company with the ability to cover any problem you may find yourself in. On that note, any reputable contractor will have insurance sufficient to cover any mishap that they cause and should also warrant their ...


5

You'll absolutely need to cut back the siding and attach directly to the home. For the siding, you need two custom tools. The first is a small hook for unhooking a piece of siding from the piece below. Use this to remove all the pieces that are currently where you want to install the plate. Get a role of tyvek tape to cover up all the holes left from ...


5

Vinyl siding has seams between the pieces. You can push/pull at one of these to make enough room to get a small pen light inside for a peak. You can also inspect around any protrusions like water faucets or vents. Lastly, you can get a special vinyl pulling tool that is a thin blade with a small hook at the end. It's designed to be forced between two pieces ...


5

Ed's suggestion is fine. Another option is to assume it will leak and built to allow it to happen as a rain screen wall. A rain screen wall has a waterproof interior, an air gap, then the exterior siding. Any water getting behind the siding can air dry within this gap.


5

There are multiple reasons that it degrades and "rots" from the bottom edge. The lowest point is where all water runs so that part is likely the last part to dry out. The lowest part of the wall gets less protection from any overhang of the roof. The siding material was probably left open with a raw edge at the bottom and the lower back side is exposed. ...


5

Wood meeting concrete in a damp area is never a good recipe. As porous as concrete is, its not even ideal that treated wood meets concrete. this is mostly because of the chance for standing water or leeching. My recommendation in this scenario would be to trim the wood siding ~1/4 inch minimally, or better yet 6" to 8" above the concrete area. If you go ...


5

Be as safe as possible and be as fast as possible. If it is legal to do it then: Do not do it by yourself. Ask a couple friends to help you. Do it all at once, no unnecessary breaks. All of you wear appropriate protection. Do not hesitate to ask the specialist. No free skin. Use some soft and tough guard between the pliers and the tile. Paint the tiles to ...


4

I don't know. But I'm not aware of any reason not to put treated wood inside a home, and treated wood inside against masonry has been recommended numerous times by others on this site and elsewhere. 2-4. Electrical boxes, piping, and panelling must all be mounted to a stronger surface than poly insulation, as you suspected. You would need to mount to the ...


4

If you're trying to cut in place, I'd personally go with drilling an initial hole, and then cutting the shape of the vent with a "sheet metal nibbler". The nibbler will let you cut from one side, as there's a small bit that you insert into the hole, and sheers off a small roll of material (somewhere near 1/8", depending on the exact pair). You can also get ...


4

Four to six inches is what my home inspector told me. Besides the risk of water intrusion, any area where dirt extends above the sill plate is a huge invitation to wood destroying insects like termites or carpenter ants.


4

I lived in a house growing up that had some diagonal board & batten siding that had gone to a shade of grey like an untreated cedar fence, and I know it wasn't painted, but it's possible it was stained. But I'd agree with DA01 -- there's lots of types of 'green building', and I'd rather go with long-lasting and locally produced (to minimize shipping) ...


4

I don't think your friend's suggestion is bad, but I'd still want to be sure the caulk extended all the way to the exposed surface of the siding. Better not to let water get into the crack at all than to let it get in and stuck between siding and trim but blocked from penetrating further by caulk. Why? Because in winter, water that's in the crack will ...


4

Pine is a poor choose for siding in the northeast, and it is far more expensive than spec grade vinyl siding. Even though pine is used often for trim, when it is used to side an entire building expect the following problems. Wider boards, 1/2 X 6 and larger have a habit of checking and cupping when exposed to prolonged heat and moisture. Exterior pine needs ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible