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Aluminum shower stalls like that often have a pair of channels that mount to the wall, then the panels slip into them. A small screw or other retainer holds them in place. Look for some way to release the panels. You may need to cut a bead of caulk. The base is probably nailed or screwed through the top flange. You'll see it when you peel the wall panels ...


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Where the bench meets the base it's the same as where the wall meets the base. so there's not going to be a problem there.


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What you are doing sounds like you could simply use modified thinset. If the tile will be uniform, or perhaps not you could use tile setters shims to create the joints and then use sanded grout to fill the joints. You could use epoxy grout, I never have in a shower stall, but I am sure it would work. As far as waterproofing goes starting with the floor ...


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Normally the stone is applied directly to the backer board once the pieces are set a grout is used between the stones (today I would recommend epoxy grout). After grout a sealer can be used , I have done a couple jobs like this and do not recommend for a shower area. Even if well sealed natural stone picks up the soap scum and can be a pita to clean. I did a ...


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Shower cartridges can definitely get debris in them just like aerators in faucets can. Some valves have screen filters in them close to the intakes. also, make sure all your water valves are all the way open.


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As far as I see it, you have 3 options: Buy a longer curtain, it may be too long, which is fine. You can bring this curtain to just about any seamstress and they will cut it down and hem the bottom for a "factory" look at whatever height you want. Try to find longer/larger rings. This may not be possible to get exactly the size you want, but it could get ...


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Get a second shower rod that's white and tension adjustable so no new holes. Install it below the existing one and reverse the existing hoops so the round part has the rod passing through it and the small dip holds the curtain. See example below.


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I would buy a second set of those white plastic loops and drop the curtain down easily that way.


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If it's going to be for a short period of time I'd get some silicone adhesive and use that to put the tile back in. Don't bother grouting either, just use the same adhesive for that too. Just make sure the area is totally dry before sealing in the tile and let the adhesive cure for the recommended time before using the shower.


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OUR COLORED SANDED CAULK TOOK 1 MONTH TO DRY CURE HARDEN: We had a 1/2" deep x 1/2" wide gap between our kitchen floor tiles and kitchen door threshold, food and crumbs would get stuck in that gap. We used sanded caulk. It DID dry and cure but it took about 1 month. Just be careful not to step on it nor push your fingers into it or it will leave dents and ...


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I'm not a plumbing code guru, but I see no problem with what you have planned. The only side effects I can think of are a slight increase in noise (due to the added turbulence) and the possibility of stagnant water in one side, should there be an odd flow imbalance. Be aware that the two 1/2" lines may not be supplied by a 3/4" line, though. They may just ...


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Yes. You can take a 1/2” cold and a 1/2” hot supply and increase the diameter of both to 3/4” cold and 3/4” hot.


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I agree not many glues are acceptable and reliable enough for human weight, but remember several grab bars have powerful anchor plates but very insecure and minimal bar attachment plates and screws. Only use bars where the actual bar itself is screwed all the way through to a stud or anchor


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Hi Jay, Going to 3/4 pipe will help yes. What you need to be carefull is : Avoid to install un-necessary 90 elboy or splitter or connector. Always try to run your Pex if you will use Plastic Pex, with curve, No Bend (Never). If you can run your line until your mixer (shower selector) without any fittings, it's the best situation to maximize the preasure....


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Upsizing from 1/2 to larger pipe will help, but only if the upstream supply supports it. In this case, with a 3/4" main, it is probably worth doing. Your plan of running 1/2" to and from the water heater is no good, go with 3/4" until you reduce to each fixture leg with 1/2". You shouldn't have to worry about big hot or cold swings in shower temperature, ...


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You should start by opening up the unit and replacing the bibb washers. When worn they can vibrate and cause unholy squeals.


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It sounds like your pressure reducing valve (regulator) is not working properly. Normally the max pressure is 80 psi or less, there are several possibilities since this was not a problem in the past we will go to debris plugging the orifices. I have found that rust / scale has prevented the valve from fully closing thus you see full pressure at all times ...


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The seams between walls and between walls and floor should not be grouted. There is always movement when planes change and that will crack grout. Clean out all the grout as Jimmy suggested. Then apply a quality silicone caulk at the corner of wall to wall and also to wall the floor. Caulk is flexible and will resist cracking whereas grout will not.


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I would venture to guess that originally the shower had a properly waterproofed substrate; the common inspector's test requires plugging the drain and filling the pan with water for a period, checking for water level change. There may be concern now, because cracked and failing grout can be a sign of movement (there are, however, other possible causes of ...


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You probably can fix this without having to damage the wall. This is a common problem, and there are inexpensive tools designed to remove any pieces of the shower arm left inside the wall in the fitting. You might be able to borrow one, but similar tools can be bought for less than US$10. Check your local hardware store or plumbing supply store. Unscrew ...


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You might be best to just by a new one, however, one thing you could try is some plumbing tape (PTFE tape, or Teflon Tape). This tape is generally used to help seal screw connections on plumbing but could provide the extra grip between the threads needed to keep it connected.


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The easiest way that I found to remove silicone caulking from tile was high acetone nail polish remover with a magic eraser. It does take time, but there is a lot less elbow grease.


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Hard to know without having them to ask. Possibly thinking of having a utility sink or clothes washer in the garage? My other thought was considering fitment of a pre-warming arrangement but that would only need the cold line (and a drain pump feeding the shower drain water to a heat exchanger on the cold line, for a shower not on an upper level. The pump ...


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Filling or grinding the shower valve risks creating a leak and causing much more work to repair it. Just turn up the temperature on your water heater instead.


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I would work from the top down, leaving the floor for the end to prevent damage to the floor grout. It should not be a problem standing and working on the ungrouted floor, just make sure the thin-set is cured. Cover it with cardboard or some old carpet or something.


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