10

The ceramic granules are the protective layer of the shingle. They're not merely aesthetic. They offer UV, impact, and corrosion protection, and the shingle is vulnerable when they're removed. The roof probably will not leak now, or in a few weeks, or a few months, but eventually the shingles will deteriorate badly enough that water gets through above the ...


10

"Shingles torn" "Nails showing" You very probably have leaks you have not yet noticed. If you re-roof now, you might not rot out the roof deck and need to replace it as well. If you wait until you have leaks you notice, you may find that you're rotted out the roof deck and be looking at a far larger bill. However - don't hire ANY contractor that drives by, ...


8

It's good that the roof is not leaking (you didn't mention that) but improper installation will create leaks in the future. So, verifying a few key items and then officially notifying your builder (by certified, return receipt mail) of incorrect installation will protect your rights. I'd check the following: Number of nails in each shingle: Each roofing ...


7

During the high season (when you'll need it urgently) it's harder to find and schedule a roofer to come out. Insurance won't cover all your losses : if it covers any losses. Much damage can be hidden from view. When it's not an emergency you can get competitive bids and get a good price for a roof that will last until you die and then some. You don't ...


6

Yes, it works - although most recommendations I've seen prefer zinc to copper (both more effective and cheaper). In fact, you see it all the time on older roofs underneath galvanized roof fixtures. For example, my neighbor's house: Basically, each rain washes metalic zinc down the roof and basically prevents any growth and lasts for decades. Copper does ...


5

It’s called “self sealing” shingles (or lack thereof). Shingles are made to self seal to each other by having the sun heat them up (including the asphalt strip on the underside) and the weight of the shingle will cause the asphalt to press into the lower shingle. When the shingle is hung at more than about 6:12 or in a cool environment, then the weight ...


4

I work for a metal roofing company, and this is a big area of concern for a lot of homeowners. Here's what I can say: based on experience and facts. 8-10 years ago, the fasteners on exposed metal roofing were terrible. They failed CONSISTENTLY. There were very few competing fastener companies and rubber washers cracked and leaked like crazy. And when your ...


4

It is possible that your ice & water shield will peel up cleanly depending on age, climate, current temperature, sun exposure, etc. Try that first, otherwise... Installing drip edge under the two layers of shingle that should be present will take care of 99% of the water flow. The small amount that may come down during ice dam conditions may run under ...


4

It doesn't come fully attached. The black line at the bottom is an asphalt strip that is sticky when hot, the sun heats it and it sticks the pieces together. This is a bit of a special case because of where the shingle is located and thus the smaller size and odd shape and that is why the problem happened here. And at the bottom so water flow down the ...


4

Staples are far more prone to cause leaks than roofing nails. For a pro roofer with a coil nail gun, they save no time at all .vs. using nails. For a non-pro who can actually use a hammer, they save very little time .vs. nails. Likewise, in the normal process of construction, it's quite common to have some period of time where the underlayment is the only ...


3

Yes it will leak. There's tar paper or tyvek or something under the shingles that will help provide a temporary defence against leaks, but you need to repair or replace those shingles. This is more of an opinion, but that's a lot of little dings to repair... and if you don't get them all, it could be for nothing (leaks can cause a lot more damage). So, ...


3

Because the rot from leakage will damage the sheeting and anything else it gets to. When the roof comes off, the foolishness is exposed. Insurance does not cover neglect. Our neighbors tried this little ploy and nearly had the house condemned. One wall rotted out, cripple wall nearly ready to collapse. Maintenance is cheap, repair is expensive, crippling ...


3

Yes this looks correct. You're right about cutting away too much shingle, but it looks like you fixed it with sealant.


3

Yes. You would want to protect the shingles if there is to be a lot of foot traffic on the roof. A good way to provide that protection is to get a couple sheets of 1/2" plywood which you lay over the shingles. You can also cut the plywood to size in the case that whole sheets do not cover the work area. The plywood does need to be secured in place so that it ...


3

Not from what I've seen. From the dozen of so slate roofs I've seen and had, they were all applied directly to flat tight seamed planking. Typically, only wood or other types of roofing that aren't waterproof and need to dry-out have a furring-strip or stepped off underlayment. You'll just want to replace any rotted areas with new planking (best) or ...


3

In my personal experience, a "real vent" on top of the roof (cupola, turbine, etc) is far more effective than continuous ridge vent, and I will in fact be retrofitting a cupola onto a roof with continuous ridge vent for exactly that reason. The space feels nearly unvented, despite "being vented" as the air movement through the ridge vent (...


2

I own a roofing company and have used both products. Our go to shingle is the GAF timberline, but from time to time we will upgrade someone to the OC duration. One of the benefits we found with the OC is the nylon nailing strip. We don't have any nails blowing through and if we need to rip on up, most times the nails come with it. So as far as what the ...


2

It depends on the quality of installation, but on average exposed fastener metal roofs (which do, indeed, use EDPM washers if not of very low quality and life-expectancy) are a 15-25 year roof, while a quality standing seam job is a 50 year roof. The EDPM washer is not a band-aid - it's a part of this roofing system design (and most of the fasteners are ...


2

If the two halves of the shed are built to be structurally sound while separate, then there is no reason that each roof can't be built slightly asymmetrically so that one overlaps a portion of the other to provide weatherproof protection, like this: Some tweaking of the interface would be needed to make it practical and convenient, but the basic idea would ...


2

Almost all sky lights on a roof are mounted a 2x3 or 2x4 curbing that is nailed down to the roof sheathing. Flashing metal pieces are the bent up and nailed to the outside of the curbing and put down under each succeeding tier of shingles. The skylight generally us sized to fit on the top of the curbing and has a flange that comes down along the side of the ...


2

Get the curling ones fixed. As you're getting quotes for that, ask for a quote for an entire re-roof and decide for yourself. (If it was me and I had the money, I'd re-roof entirely to save the bother of having segments out-of-sync, but I understand the way new home ownership goes.)


2

Yeah, that roof's pretty beat. I'd actually go heavily at that seam with Mortar Caulk (its gritty & gray), the whole length of the seam if you don't know where the leak is. But, spraying a hose at the seam & very slowly moving the spray up the seam should give you a good idea of the problem area. Still caulk the whole seam, but then do under the ...


2

You should claim it and have it fixed professionally. This type of damage could result in leaks, you should have them replaced, and don't try to jerry-rig a fix yourself. Depending on your insurance company your rates should NOT go up for making a claim for this type of damage. Well, not your rates specifically as a result of your claim; everyone's rates ...


2

I call them manufacture burn holes, I see them in most roofs even roofs only 1 year old, it is normally where there are either loose stone or poor seal of the stones on the shingle and with out the stones there is no protection and the sun will burn right thru the asphalt, it looks like your in this picture had some help with insects or yellow jackets, ...


2

If there's a solar equipment distributor near you, check with them. Products like this exist for this very purpose. Ironically, because you're just grounding the equipment, the conduit itself, if it's metal, can serve as the grounding conductor (so it'd be empty conduit). Look for "conduit roof flashing."


2

Exposed nails not only look bad but the heads will deteriorate faster being exposed. On the occasion I have a shiner I will cover it with a small amount of roof patch. I use an asphalt based patch and collect some of the sand from a bundle then it is hard to see even if you know it's there.


2

I believe with a properly adjusted gun better results or at least more consistent results are possible. I always carry a hammer to set nails that hit a knot but I don't think it is cheaping out. In 20 years watch him starting to have have to wear a band on his elbow and possibly surgery from swinging a hammer. Full head nails available today are the same ...


2

I’ll take the other side of Ed’s argument and say hand nailing is best. Nail guns will either drive the nail too deep (when the air compressor is set too high, hits a “soft” area of the lumber, or driven at a slight angle) or not drive the nail flush (when the air compressor is set too low, the nail hits a knot, or is at the end of a series of nails being ...


2

Looking at the photos provided, I don’t see anything that qualifies as a bad job. My guess is that if they’re newly laid shingles they probably just need to be exposed to some more sunlight/heat so they lay down properly, but that’s perfectly normal and nothing to worry about.


2

Most likely the water is absorbing stain from the new shingles. This will change over time as the new shingles weather.


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