11

I wouldn't worry too much about it. The plywood is not typically supporting a load of more than the paper and asphalt shingles that were placed, even more so if you have a considerable pitch on your roof to where it would be difficult or impossible for a person to walk on. It basically serves so that you have something to nail the shingles down securely. ...


10

As much as you probably don't want to hear this, I am quite sure you are stuck with the job as it is. The time to decide if the sheathing needed to be replaced or over sheathed was when the roof was stripped clean. My first observation is that you said you had 3/8" plywood. 3/8" would be the absolute minimum size, 1/2" or 5/8" T&G would have been ...


4

Option 1 is probably the best and 3 is the worst. Similar to drywall, you don't want a seam at the corner. This is where the load causes the most stress and therefore cracking. For windows, it's the same. You install a full vertical piece as if the window isn't there, and make sure the seam isn't in the corner. Use a chalk line to mark the edges of the ...


3

You may be able to replace the regular square bearing plate (which features a hole in the center) with a bearing plate featuring a diagonal slot. This slot permits the bearing plate to be placed off-center of the bolt, perhaps enough to prevent any interference with the sheathing. Simpson Strong-Tie makes a couple different slotted bearing plates for this ...


3

The generic name is "fiberboard" and it is sold under many trade names like Celotex, Buffaloboard, etc. This stuff is not bad at all, it's just different from plywood and OSB. While plywood and OSB are structural and offer substantial racking resistance against wind load, fiberboard is weaker and does not increase the strength as much. On the plus side, it ...


3

It was made by Celotex as well as some other companies. It comes under the nickname Buffalo board and Beaver board depending on where you're at. I don't know that it's manufactured anymore, however I viewed the link from the previous answer and it appears it could be the same thing. If your house is older then it is probably the original buffalo board ...


3

NRG greenboard is 98% air and therefore only 2% polystyrene NOTHING can be mounted TO this. Your reel may be mounted THROUGH it to the studs behind. From the Greenboard handbook: 17.1.5 Solid Blocking of Fitting and Accessories Consideration should be given to the installation of wall mounted accessories i.e. taps, electrical ...


3

A better question would be, why is my sheathing getting wet? The grain of the sheathing suggests to me it is Homosote Homasote. It should not be squishy, rather firm and resilent. Something is allowing water past your brick barrier, and then, past what was vapor barrier (for the time, 15-30# tar embedded felt paper. I would look up, overflowing ...


2

The material you have there is what I was taught to call celotex. There is a manufacturer that has the same name that may have been the original maker of this product. It is pretty much the equivalent of loosely packed sawdust drawn into a sheet and held together by binding agents and tar, I believe on the outside surface. Research on ther internet may ...


2

This looks like what we call "asphalt board", a kind of impregnated wood fiber board. Example


2

Skip sheathing for shake roofs used to be really common around my area of the country and I've never removed it (or seen anybody else remove it for that matter). OSB or plywood over skip sheathing makes for a much stiffer roof deck, resists problems with expansion better, and obviously doesn't require all the hassle of removing it. After you strip the ...


2

I would just use silicone, as you can you can just rub it off after it is done (I would expect a small bit of damage but nothing that destroys integrity). You might need to tape it until the silicone is dry if the numbers are heavy.


2

Cement board and fibercement siding (such as that from GAF or Hardie) are very different things. I'd never have considered cement board as an exterior product, especially in a climate with severe freeze/thaw cycles. I'd expect it to simply disintegrate as it'll absorb moisture readily. Also, to cut that into siding shingles would be a monumental task, ...


2

Replacing the deteriorated siding and upgrading with the air barrier and insulation does sound like the correct route - ignoring a problem of that scale just gets more expensive to fix later.


1

The code allows 3 basic configuration: 1) Configuration 1: long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 panel LENGTH, 2) Category 2: long edge of panels installed horizontally and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 width of SHORT edge, and 3) Category 6 (I know, stupid numbering system, but Categories ...


1

Structurally, it's not a problem. If there are windows, you may need bigger trim (surround) by 1/4". (By the way, most residential walls need to be 2x6 construction due to the energy code.)


1

Fiberboard is flimsy and might be damaged in the process of removing the vinyl siding anyway. I'd replace it if the opportunity presented itself. While you have the stud cavities open, replace whatever's in there with mineral wool. Then sheathe with plywood. Cover that with 2+ inches of rigid foam. Preferably polyiso (best R-value per inch) and preferably ...


1

I have hung a 4x8 ft trellis spaced 3" from the wall and supporting a large climbing rose on the side of my house through the vinyl siding. No leaks, and has been there for 6 years. Here's how: Firstly, my vinyl siding is not flat. Each vinyl "board" has an upper section that is flat to the OSB sheathing of the house, and a lower protruding section that is ...


1

There are many types of hooks designed for hanging objects from vinyl siding. They are available in both metal and plastic. I am currently using a plastic hook to hang a house number plaque over my garage. It has held up fine for almost 3 years now. Just google vinyl siding hooks and you will find a wide selection. If your plaque is heavy, you can use 2 ...


1

Yes, you can do this. But there's no reason to cobble it together yourself; the Huber company (no affiliation) manufactures something called Zip-R that's an all-in-one version of what you're describing, plus a weather-resistant outer face that can be taped and doesn't need an additional water-resistive barrier (like Tyvek or tar paper) over it. Other ...


1

One of the first things you might want to do is look into the building codes in your area to make sure that the work performed meets code. In Montgomery County, Ohio planked sheathing is considered spaced sheathing. Therefore as roofing contractors, due to code, we have to install 3/8 or 7/16 OSB over-top of the existing planks to meet building code. Many ...


1

So long as the installation meets the engineered design [and the design was properly engineered], the sole reason to choose one spacing over another is cost. In some cases larger spacing will require an upgrade to supplementary structural components such as framing anchors or increased straps or additional nails. The only way to know if there is a difference ...


1

If this roof tile is the Spanish terra cotta style(curved or waved shaped) than plug up the openings at the eaves. What I have done is: 1) cram rolled-up sections of poultry netting into the cavities and mix a batch of mortar keep it fairly dry and trowel it into openings. or 2) get a length of 2-3 inch galvanized roof flashing and snip the outline of each ...


1

You should have flashing every time you have a change or intersection of structure or material. The flashing should be lapped with building paper. See Image for an example of proper flashing. The siding should not be caulked to the deck, in most cases you should leave at least 1/4" between the siding and the deck boards (but always check siding ...


1

I am not really sure they attached this to your house right at all. I would need to see a picture. The board that is against your house is the ledger. This runs parallel to your house you should see it bolted in. This would be load bearing (along with your posts) and is bolted into floor joists - which are not 2x4s. Now you can run joists that ...


1

While CDX (rated Exposure I) has exterior glue, it is not intended for prolonged weather exposure. You should use a panel that has a true exterior rating, even if it is rated for sheathing and not siding. Try looking for APA Rated Sheathing C-D Exterior plywood. You can use any panel thickness with a span rating for 16" spaced studs, but with 24" studs, use ...


1

If you don't need access to the girts (horizontally attached boards) then placing the sheathing over those, in between the poles, will provide more insulating value than placing insulation between the girts. The more insulation, the better though, so doing both will be even better. If you aren't stuck with sheathing, then you might also consider a spray on ...


1

I can't quite picture what you're describing, but covering studs is always better than placing insulation in between when doing so is practical. Studs do not provide good insulation and turn into a heat sink. The dead air space left also provides a bit more insulation. Even better would be to insulate that space, then put more insulating sheathing over that ...


1

If you install ridge vents but leave the old can vents, you have negatively effected the efficiency of the new ridge vent. Intake (usually under the soffitt) needs to be equalized with the exhaust and you need to make sure there is a clear passageway for the intake air. Baffles are often used to ensure no blockage from insulation. If you have excessive ...


1

You should read up on some of the roof ventilation articles at Building Science -- they provide a lot of resources and actual studies. While "adding more ventilation at the peak" is an "easy" thing for a contractor to fix, the first thing that your contractor should be doing if you have mold issues is to make sure the soffit ventilation is working ...


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