7

Yeah, unfortunately, you're going to have to strip it up. The two ways I can think of would be to use a concrete grinding machine to chew up the surface. Just a light chewing/scarification will do. You should be able to rent a machine that will do it from your local tool "we-rent-it" type of place... or they would know who to talk to. By far, a machine ...


7

A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work. This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.


7

That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots ...


5

If you just have 2ft x 3ft there's no problem using usual (not thin-set) mortar to level the surface - it will be cheap (likely cheaper that self-leveling concrete) and quite easy to do. Thinsets indeed can crack if it's too thick and also they are not very strong - don't withstand compaction as well as ordinary mortar and so there indeed is a chance that ...


4

No. Hy-Rib is an exterior industrial product not intended for residential use, and IIRC you'd never cover it completely w/ less than 2 full inches of concrete, adding an incredible amount of weight to your WOODEN structure. If your floor is that far out of level, that suggests problems in the underlying framing. The best fix is to correct from the bottom ...


4

24 sq ft would be an area approximately 4x6? Adding two inches of depth... I think what I would try in this case would be to get several 1/2" dowel rods and cut them to lengths that would allow me to align them in a radial pattern out from the drain, something like this: Around the drain, I would prop them 1.5" up in the air, and at the periphery I'd prop ...


4

Check the manufacturer's specs on the thinset you are using (or just call their tech support to verify). Generally, if the variation in the floor is 1/4" or more then using your thinset mortar is usually not recommended for fixing it. Even though you say it is 3/16", in my opinion, it would make life easier to just use an SLC


4

Yeah not sure I share their opinion. I did it 5 or 6 years ago and everything is still good. Just make sure that you use long enough screws in the area with the dip to hit the subfloor.


4

Faced with the same dilemma I went with French/trench drain in front of the garage. It fixed the water issue and really wasn’t hard to do with a diamond blade, skillsaw and pick. The sections of drain were $40 each and the blade was $15. It would have taken several bags of leveling/topping cement at $15 each plus renting a float and I don’t have the same ...


3

Acquire a rotatory impact hammer drill so that you can pocket rebar into the existing concrete. Buy 'high-strength' expensive concrete. If you called a truck for onsite mixing (an unnecessary expense), tell the driver, 7 bag mix. An alternative to rebar, for such a small patch, is to use long masonry screws, left standing proud to provide an anchor. E.g., ...


3

I cannot see anything to cause alarm. It sounds like a quality of finish issue and not something that would be typical of a home inspection report. Subject to the laws of physics and land use regulations, any construction project is possible if sufficient resources are devoted to its completion. Whether it makes personal or economic sense to reduce the ...


3

You could do either: level the floor or level the individual parts (shower enclosure, vanity, toilet) Which you choose will depend on the degree of out-of-level Self Leveler: self leveler does not need to stay intact after the backer board install. It can fracture and still completely support the backer board.. its got nowhere to go and it doesn't ...


3

You can easily knock down any irregularity with an angle grinder and a masonry blade. It will generate a lot of dust, so you'll need some good eye protection and good mask. The answer to your question depends on how planar the surface is and what size of tile you are planning on using. Bigger tile requires a surface that is more planar, while smaller tile ...


3

You may break a few pieces(of marble) just picking them up. A skim coat on either side of the joint will help. Block feather with a concrete 'rubbing' block. My marble floor always have Schluter Ditra under them. I also use it with any questionable floor. Ceramic tile can tolerate L/360 deflection, stone is twice as sensitive at L/720. If you have any ...


3

I like taking small crowns out of concrete floors with diamond cup wheel attached to an angle grinder... Need a shop vac and a masked helper. You may be able to rent both.


3

Plywood is not the best substrate for self leveling compound. You can do it but for me its very ify. I'll only put self leveling compound over plywood if the floor has zero to no flex, give, or movement in the subfloor. Look at it this way if your floor starts shifting or moves every time you walk on it your leveler will flex and start to crack and ...


3

Spend $50 on a non contact moisture meter rated for concrete. Make sure your system is ok with whatever level you have spring/fall.. Floor grinding with a diamond cup grinder, followed by SLC (self leveling compound) for the low spots would minimize the SLC needed. Follow your vinyl flooring manufacturer for sealing/curing/dryness.


3

The only drawback I can think of is that self-leveling products don't tend to feather themselves to a knife edge. They tend to leave an edge similar to what you'd see with a puddle of water on a glass table, with a bead of approximately 1/8 inch thick. So if your layer doesn't cover the entire floor you'll need to deal with that by tooling at partial cure, ...


3

I like it and it should get rid of that trip hazard door threshold. I'd stay away from the self-leveling anything and you don't want nor should now have level anyway. As you said, you just want to bring the dips up. Self-leveling concrete/cement would destroy the porch's pitch for water to run away from the house. You just want Flat, which is not the same ...


2

The only thing I can think of is: what if your floor is mostly flat (except for the dip), but not truly level? Layers of thinset would allow you to build up the dip so that it's parallel to your floor. By contrast, leveling compound will dry level, but if your floor isn't level, that may not help you.


2

The paint may cause you trouble, as most want concrete to have cured for 30 days, so make sure that the brand you use will work with your timetable. The concrete repair products are best for cracks up to 25mm and similar depth. Larger than that would require a concrete patch 1st, filled to within 25mm of the surface. Then the repair patch (just a sanded ...


2

One solution is to cut subfloor on either side of the offending joist, plane the joist down, sister 2x6 nailers alongside the perimeter of the exposed opening. Then replace the subfloor with new 3/4 ply.


2

If I understand your question you are creating a raised floor section, 2 1/4 inches higher than the floor below it and you want to place you tub at this height. I think that you have some sort of frame in place into which you want to pour the LevelQuik, filling it up, so that it will cure into a level surface. I suggest against that. The maximum thickness ...


2

The problem that sometimes occur with basement concrete floors is if no vapor barrier is underneath than any ground moisture can permeate through the slab and into your living space. So if you happen to install a floor covering any moisture is going to get trapped underneath. This will cause any number of problems usually it will weaken the glue's bond ...


2

You really should remove the stuff that was mixed overly wet - that tends to make cement products very weak. As a result, it should be easy to remove - might even come out with a stiff broom, if not, stiff wire brush might well do it. Check the labelling on your paint - in most cases you should wait at least 30 days before painting (or attempting to paint) ...


2

My family remodeled and has dealt with old and new layers of cement. I suggest the following plan based on our educated, though non-professional experience. Leveling Old Cement Floor Preperation If it is safe to rinse the floor, you should wash the floor with cement cleaner (an acid requiring a special brush). This is will remove the less sticky and more ...


2

I am hearing that you have checked the regulations and want to push the boundaries and if you get caught be able to easily remove all your work. First and foremost you NEVER want a level ground in the out of doors. You have to know where every drop of water that lands on your property will travel to. I AM an expert with grading and drainage. I taught ...


2

I just did my concrete floor for vinyl plank, and I would be concerned more for the flatness the the floor that it is within the tolerances needed. The bumps can be scraped off, at worst ground off. When I poured mine, I had high spots that needed ground down, quite the dusty job. The holes in the mix from the air bubbles will be of no concern, the flooring ...


2

How long do you plan to keep the house? I'd just get the tiles tested and remediated. How many square feet are you thinking about? Self level isn't cheap and if you want to make your basement usable at some time in the future you probably want to do something more through. I've fixed up a number of 1920 basements that had sump pits for ground water ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible