Hot answers tagged

16

Wait until it dries and use a razor blade to scrape it off.


8

Rub a little Tabasco™ sauce or other hot sauce of your choosing on the caulked joint. That will cure most critters of chewing on things they shouldn't. Granted, it's a bit odd that the cat chooses to gnaw on silicone caulk, but usually a good hot sauce will kill the desire to eat the object.


7

It is a very bad idea to caulk around the base of a toilet. It is an even worse idea to caulk around the base of a toilet with a known seal leak. Do not wait, pull the toilet up and replace the seal and make whatever necessary repairs as soon as possible. You don't know where that nasty waste water will end up if you seal it in.


6

In the bath tub the only joint needing caulk (commonly) is the wall/tub intersection. If your pet only is interested in pulling out caulking you might try repairing the joint with silicone, but than covering it with a plastic wall molding This is installed with an adhesive. While I wouldn't recommend using this exclusively to repel water it would protect ...


4

Wire mesh is a good idea in that it maintains the same level of ventilation offered by the current openings. Only you can decide of the ventilation is necessary or desired. I could see problems of blowing and drifting snow getting inside the shed in the winter time and if that is a problem then you may be up to eliminating the openings. If you do decide to ...


4

On the mirror specifically, you may be able to use acetone solvent, however this may harm the splashback. If you have extra you can test, but it will not harm glass My go-to solvent for cleaning ANYTHING off of glass is non-chlorinated automotive brake cleaner, which is usually a mix of acetone, methanol, toluene, heptane, and hexane. HOWEVER, this is quite ...


3

Beading isn't a problem. If it was, a persistent rain would also be a problem. Chances are the oils on the surface will eventually be removed by weather and the beading will subside anyway.


3

It appears to me that since it is on the roof, subject to extremes, that the joint needs to withstand the expansion and contraction of the PVC pipe. That joint you are referring to is just that, it is a slip joint that allows the pipe to grow and shrink in length and presumably still not leak, since is a closed system, or supposed to be. There should be a ...


3

Isherwood's right & make sure you're actually getting the blowing air from the bath fan on the outside of the house. Also, after showers or baths get into the practice of letting the fan run for another 15 or 30-minutes. You just want to fill, actually fill, that crack below the tile is all. Squirt caulk INTO the gap & then force more caulk into the ...


3

I have used zinc make sure the strip extends beyond the shingles , we started using wide zinc strips at 2 levels after moving to Oregon and noticing no moss or fungus below the metal roof vents. I like black jack it is a good sealant and if putting a roof I accidentally have a shiner a dab of blackjack on top will seal that exposed nail head. Make sure to ...


3

If I understand correctly, you've sprayed expanding foam into the head of your blinds. It has now fully encased all the working mechanism of the blinds - the rods, gears, strings, etc. You could take the blinds down, remove as many external parts as you can, then with a series of small picks, knives, scoops, etc. dig at the foam for several hours, ...


3

Loctite's Power Grab is a very good alternative. It dries hard and has very good adhesion while also being available in white or clear. You may have to get their Ultimate version to be fully waterproof.


2

You can set the toilet right on the subfloor with the wax ring if the flange is not so high it hits the bottom of the toilet when it is set in place. Set it just like it is on a finished floor. When I renovated my bath the last time, I set mine on the bare subfloor for the short time before the tile went down. In regards to the shower and mentioned in ...


2

Duct tape (very sticky, possible removal of more than just the tape) or Electrical tape (just sticky enough, easy removal) over open seams. Otherwise, just tape cheap plastic painting tarps from above the shower right down into the tub's walls, tight will keep blowing movement to a minimum. If it's a shower & not a tub you'll need tarps down to the drain ...


2

They're are insecticides that will keep these flying drill bits from nesting in your eaves. The ones I know of need to be applied by a pro but seem to be good for multiple years.


2

That looks like a good solution. There's no fire hazard there (if there were, you'd also be worried about the wood). You may have to switch to something thinner at the bottom there, and use additional pieces to fill in the joints between the blocks. Something I've used with good success are lengths of foam pipe insulation; it's cheap, and you can easily cut ...


2

Silicone will give you the squish and sealing you’re looking for, will hold up well with temperature changes, and can be cut and scraped away later if necessary. There are silicone sealants made for automotive applications that would probably be best here considering the wide temperature swing. Like this one, used between metal parts that are bolted ...


2

From your description, I'm visualizing that you want to attach a cover (metal to metal). If the parts mate well, superglue (cyanoacrylate) may do what you want. The original thin liquid type works best when the surfaces make good contact so that there is a very thin layer of adhesive between them. Such a joint will be close to airtight. It doesn't work ...


2

From the potability standpoint I think you will want to definitely plan to have high performance hand operated water filter unit available to filter any water you would try to drink from this tank. Check at a place like REI to find a filter like the type used by canoeists when they make trips on rivers and lakes and filter lake water for drinking. It seems ...


2

Yes it can be sprayed, and says so on the bucket. The spray tip orifice needs to be large though, because drylock is more like pudding. At least .025" which is bigger than the usual size used for latex paint.


2

Once concrete is fully cured, you're not going to damage it with paint or other sealer. On the first floor of a building chances are good that it is a solid concrete floor rather than a thin coat of something. As far as the "type of concrete", that shouldn't matter much when you choose a coating. What does matter is the prep work that you do. When you ...


2

Actually 100% silicone isn't a great caulk in my book. It's hard to get off later and typically isn't UV resistant. What you want is a solid outdoor oil-based (mineral spirit cleanup) caulk (sometimes called Window/Siding). I really like Quad, but anything made for outdoors will do (even some latex products). If I were you, I'd also replace the cover. It's ...


2

Attempting to seal this from the inside probably won't work. If insects are getting through, there must be a gap in the exterior sheathing or framing. Closing off that one gap under the trim won't solve the problem as the insects will find another route, such as through the carpet. Find the opening on the outside and either repair the problem in the ...


2

Look into getting window well covers. They are purpose built for this type of situation.


2

I would shy away from caulk just because you might have to remove the ring/trim in the future and caulk would make that difficult. Have you thought about using some weather stripping? It comes in various thicknesses and colors and is self adhesiving. It's easy to use and less messy than caulk.


2

The MDS notes that the components are latex polymer, water and CaCO3 (calcium carbonate). These are inert and should not interact with the sheathing.


2

It appears that there is grout in place now with some caulking where it's cracked out. I'm going to guess that these bricks are set in a sand base? If so, then you'll never get the blocks stable enough to keep the grout from cracking. Have you considered just removing the grout and applying some "paver sand" into the gaps? That's a lot more forgiving than ...


2

Maybe MAPEI Flexcolor CQ grout. I have used it in several tile jobs. Easy to use, water cleanup, but it cures to a hardness between grout and rubber. They market it as epoxy grout but with water cleanup.


1

I would suggest a two part epoxy similar to this: Mult-E-Poxy This is a two part system and very durable. I have it on my garage floor. To prep the surface you are going to want to clean the space with muratic acid (it's nasty stuff). The acid cleans out the pores in the concrete and etches the surface to ensure good adhesion of the paint. Once the ...


1

Anytime I have one of these joints leak, I install a new gasket and coat both sides with a little RTV silicone . Wait overnight or as long as practical to run water through the drain.


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