12

Put them in the grill and get them HOT! Then use a wire brush and scrub the scale and rust off. After that I usually coat them with olive oil but any cooking oil will work.


7

Excellent electrolysis results: You need: One rusty grill grate. A plastic container. Some DC power source. An iron plate (NB pure iron, NOT stainless steel!). Sodium hydroxide, NaOH (alternatively sodium carbonate, Na2CO3). Rubber gloves. Instructions: Put the grill grate inside the container making sure that it is not lying flat on the bottom but have ...


7

Soak them overnight in vinegar. It works like magic to remove rust. Afterwards rub them with oil or they will get rusty again.


5

This looks like surface rust so you'll want to remove it. There are many rust removal products like Naval Jelly,etc. but I've found White vinegar to be just as good. Saturate the area with the vinegar and let it sit for 30 minutes and wipe off. A second or third coat may be necessary. Afterwards, prime the area and paint with a quality paint for steel. The ...


4

The most expedient and practical solution is to drill out the bolt. Probably access is better from the top through the tank, but it can be done from either side. The goal of "drilling out" is to weaken the shaft of the bolt enough so that either the friction on the nut is reduced to the point where it turns, or the shaft breaks and separates into two ...


4

The most reasonable low-labor suggestion for a homeowner is an angle grinder with a wire cup. It's a moderately priced tool that will likely be useful for something else down the road. A no labor solution is electrolysis, which will pull the rust off. However it involves an electrical source, water, and home-made wiring so you should be somewhat ...


4

That horse has already left the barn. You striped off the protective rubberized coating and exposed the cable underneath which is not galvanized and the rust has already started to eat the cable. Had you left the coating on it would have lasted much longer, at least until UV light cracked and compromised the coating and exposed the cable to the elements. ...


4

I think the acid in the Naval Jelly might corrode through the basin, I think it's some metal that really doesn't tolerate corrosives such as drain opener AT ALL and makes a huge caustic mess if you try it. Ask me how I know this. With the power off, just try to get it moving with the garbage disposal wrench, which is just a 1/4" hex key with an offset ...


3

Looks like the threads on the bolt are crushed/damaged, so you're only choice might be to drill it out or cut it off. Put on a pair of good work gloves. Remove the blade from a hack saw. Then work the blade between the nut, and the plastic washer. It will likely be slow, hard work, but eventually you should be able to cut the bolt. Alternatively, you ...


3

From my point of view this metal part is a base plate which makes it possible to mount the fan onto the plastic parts. As RedGrittyBrick noted, it is (or better was) zinc-plated. It seems to me, that most of the zinc layer is oxidized and cannot provide galvanic protection anymore. So why did it loose the zinc layer so quickly? If it was behind a cover ...


3

If I saw that in my basement I wouldn't worry about it until the column (post) started moving. But if I did want to get proactive I'd get a jack and a 4x4 set up next to that column and jack it until that post is loose. Then put a new steel plate in there which should last the next 50 years. And since this is internet advice and might actually be ...


3

Instead of using a rope to wrap the pipe I would use a piece of heavy chain. The technique is to wrap the chain around the pipe several times and then connect the ends up short together leaving enough of a loop to poke a timber such as a 4x4 through the loop. Use a 4x4 about 8 to 10 feet long and use it as a lever over the top of a short fulcrum post. If the ...


3

I presume the sink is faux marble. Try Lime Away. Or C.L.R. - they should remove it without hurting the surface. Comet bathroom cleaner (The squirt kind) works good on light rust spots, but would take a while on really severe spots.


3

Eighteen inches of the post penetrating into the sleeve with rust most likely to be along most of the internal overlap will be next to impossible to get apart. One of the most helpful techniques for freeing rusted parts is heating the outer part so that it expands to loosen the joint - but that technique is not possible in this situation. I suggest that you ...


3

NASA's Kennedy Space Center is located on the Florida coast, unlike the Soviet complex located on desert steppe. As such they have the most advanced anti-corrosion laboratory on earth. You've found "bronze tier" doesn't work. That's no surprise, emulsion (latex) paints don't stand a chance against rust. "Gold tier" is what NASA says: the best process (...


3

The screw eyes are not rusting. That's staining from the steel rope which i doubt is galvanized. The rust stains will come off with a little emery paper rub.


3

The rust on the stainless eye came from the steel rope. The zinc galvanizing on the wire rope has corroded away leaving bare steel to rust. Using a stainless wire rope will greatly improve the corrosion resistance of the combination and you should have no problem. The eye is probably 316 SS ( 18 -8 + 2% Mo) as are many small consumer fasteners. In a mild ...


3

No contest Sandblaster doesn't just beat, it positively trounces any other rust removal method. That's not me talking. It's NASA. Their location at Cape Canaveral ("Who picked this place? Nikita Khrushchev?") ... has a huge problem with rust due to being tidal and subject to sea spray. What a lovely place for millions of tons of steel latticework ...


3

I'm too am a welder. User142029 is absolutely correct.Those joints are fine. It's rusting faster because it's not the same metal as the base material. The structural integrity is fine. I would clean it as best as i could with a wire wheel / cup and cold galvy spray it. Not much you can do about the underside without removal.


2

I work for a natural gas company. Please call the gas company & advise you need your meter inspected for rust and they will clean and paint or replace the meter. It is the gas company's responsibility!!!!


2

It's an enamel coated steel (verify with a strong magnet). There are DIY repair kits, but your rust looks pretty serious. You'd need to start by taking the sink out, using a grinding wheel to get down to bare steel, then building up epoxy/enamel repair. Yours may be a builder special of low quality: and the rust looks pretty bad. I'd recommend a new sink. ...


2

Barkeeper's Friend. It's a cleanser like Comet or Ajax.


2

Just as another option, you can use lemon juice and salt as a scouring scrub for the rust (this is a technique borrowed from cast-iron skillet maintenance) that is (obviously) food-safe. Squeeze lemon juice onto the grates, salt them with coarse salt, and then use a half lemon like a scrub brush. It's kind of a combination of the vinegar (acid) + wire ...


2

The problem is that you have a metal to metal connection between the stainless eyes and galvanized wire rope. Add water and you get galvanic corrosion. Either electrically insulate the connection or change the eyes to galvanized ones. The purpose of the plastic coating is mainly to give the cable a cleaner/smoother/softer surface. The galvanizing is to ...


2

I would keep the WD40 as far away from food and food preparation equipment as possible. The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for WD-40 as published by the manufacturer states: Emergency Overview: DANGER! Harmful or fatal if swallowed. May cause eye irritation. Avoid eye contact. Use with adequate ventilation.


2

The original metal finish inside a PC it typically a type of zinc plating. no paint will exactly match it. 1: I don't know of any chemical that will remove rust without also attacking the plating. fish oil will stop the rust, but it take a long time to dry. 2: galvanised iron primer 3: take it to a paint shop, they'll probably be able to match the finish ...


2

If Cost was a factor vs type of base metal being thin like an automobile then i would suggest sand blast. If it was 2" thick and cost was a consideration then grind. thick metal would take the grind a bit more. for sand blasting a piece you could of grinded for less then it would be worth considering. setting up for sand blasting vs. borrowing a grinder ...


2

Either something has gotten in there that "will not blend" and you must shut off the circuit breaker and reach in and remove it. Or the unit has internal damage, possibly by whatever caused the rust, and needs a bench overhaul. Neither one comes in a can. What you're seeing is cosmetic. After firm wire-brushing, prime with Rustoleum 7769 Rusty ...


2

There are rusty metal primers available that will keep the rust from being any kind of problem. It is available in spray and brush on. Typically you will need to wire brush off any loose rust/material and paint it with that primer. After it dries the recommended time, it can be painted over with your color matched finish paint.


2

It is interesting to see that your weld joints have become rusty and seem deteriorated. Also, it is notable that both flanges have deformed (bulging) locally, the deformation could be caused by the rust pack (layers of rust steel), or worse, caused by over-stress. I think it needs more than just cleaning and repainting, which would not stop the process of ...


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