21

The best solution is to purchase a new set of bolts that are made of stainless steel or brass. Both will not rust the same way that a iron or steel bolt will. They will cost a little bit more but will pay back in the long term. My experience has been that the brass bolts after years can sometimes build up their own kind of corrosion that can make it ...


18

People use the wrong screws outside quite a lot, but thankfully there are good alternatives. Outdoor decking and fencing are commonly assembled with coated screws advertised for such. They typically come in tan or green depending on the application and can hold up for a long time without rust or staining the wood. Stainless steel screws are another option ...


10

Stainless steel deck screws will not rust. I've used them many times on all types of lumber with great results. But screwing into end grain never works well, put a piece of 2x4 into each corner and screw into the sides of it. The joint will be much stronger.


6

Aside from using non-corroding bolts (which can be hard to track down in today's "make it cheap, even if it's useless" economy) applying silicone grease liberally can be helpful. If your local sources of supply only have rusty steel, be ready to find better ones online. Silicone grease (specifically) does not damage rubber seals - I'm particularly fond of ...


5

Given the direct flame exposure, and that the flames are actually quite a bit hotter than BBQ paint is rated for (1950C for natural gas, 2392C for propane) I'd suggest sticking to clean, coat with vegetable oil (wipe on a thin layer) and bake. This makes a pretty good finish, and does not involve anything that's not going to happen in normal food preparation ...


4

Any coating of grease or other rust inhibitor will wear off over time. The right approach is to use fasteners that are corrosion resistent either due to their material (such as stainless or brass), or are plated (with zinc, chrome, or other durable material).


4

Yes you can paint them with high heat BBQ grill paint. You can find this paint at any hardware store, walmart or lowes etc. It is rated for 1400 degrees normally. Be aware, however, that the surface in contact with your pans will wear off fairly quickly. I personally would paint the grates, then burnish the paint off where it makes contact with the pans so ...


4

The finish shown is a type of paint - "Hammerite" is either the name, or the brand name of the most popular/first version. It's presumably on mild steel. However, any automotive paint should work (think about it) - and COULD be cheap if you have a cooperative paint shop and you don't care what color it is (ie, they can spray some excess when they spray ...


3

If you are too cheap (re: specific price presumably that of the galvanized cable) to do it right, don't expect miracles - being cheap is expensive (every time you have to replace the cheap item, + the cost of each failure.) Galvanized is already sun-proof, the only way to make it not sun-proof is to coat it with plastic that's damaged by the sun. It's ...


3

NASA's Kennedy Space Center is located on the Florida coast, unlike the Soviet complex located on desert steppe. As such they have the most advanced anti-corrosion laboratory on earth. You've found "bronze tier" doesn't work. That's no surprise, emulsion (latex) paints don't stand a chance against rust. "Gold tier" is what NASA says: the best process (...


3

No.It will continue rusting and the volume of the corrosion products will crack the concrete. New unrusted rebar will rust ( in concrete) but at a lower rate than your "prerusted" sample. Best practice is to epoxy ( or otherwise coat ) new construction. Stainless rebar is occasionally used. Bridges are a very severe service for rebar corrosion ; rebar in ...


3

Normally gym equipment is powder-coated. in your picture, they have used an electrostatic powder coating process and finished with a sort of hammertone finish.. IMO- your options are as follows: Stainless steel is the best metal in terms of durability. it will never rust, however, its more expensive and is slightly harder to drill/bend. I would recommend ...


3

If I saw that in my basement I wouldn't worry about it until the column (post) started moving. But if I did want to get proactive I'd get a jack and a 4x4 set up next to that column and jack it until that post is loose. Then put a new steel plate in there which should last the next 50 years. And since this is internet advice and might actually be ...


3

ReRack from Performix (same people that make Plasti-Dip) is specially made for repairing dishwasher racks. It has decent reviews on Amazon.com.


3

That horse has already left the barn. You striped off the protective rubberized coating and exposed the cable underneath which is not galvanized and the rust has already started to eat the cable. Had you left the coating on it would have lasted much longer, at least until UV light cracked and compromised the coating and exposed the cable to the elements. ...


2

I work for a natural gas company. Please call the gas company & advise you need your meter inspected for rust and they will clean and paint or replace the meter. It is the gas company's responsibility!!!!


2

Rigid conduit (which is pretty much the same thing as galvanized steel pipe) is galvanized with a considerably thicker layer than EMT - it's also stronger (emt is a bit flimsy for a railing) and more expensive (such is life.) Since you didn't specify what type of galvanized metal conduit you were considering using, what happens will vary with the type you ...


2

Typical EMT Type conduit will resist rust for a few years. It is however inevitable that it will rust. The most likely place for rust to start will be at the ends where it has been cut or along the surface where the finish has been scratched. I've used EMT type conduit for various types of outdoor things and had some deployments last for many years without ...


2

You could try using stainless steel bolts, dip in an anti-seizing compound like "Coppaslip". Under the head use locking washer, a good option is the "Nord-Lock" it is a 2 piece device, 2 washers that have serrated edge on one side and a series of wedges on the opposite side. The serrated edges grip the bolt head and the structure, the wedge faces face each ...


2

I'd go to the manufacturer of the wood glue you want to use before you get too far along. Titebond is popular and I've had great luck with it, in their FAQ they have specific instructions for gluing up cedar, before you finish it, due to the oil in cedar. I think most of them are pretty oil resistant once they cure, especially polyurethane, which is ...


2

I don't know that there's much you can do to protect it. The condenser's job is to exhaust the heat from inside your home so you can't really enclose it. Having looked around some, the only thing I've seen that's of a DIY nature is to rinse your condenser on a regular basis. Maybe rig up a sprinkler with a hose and let it spray the condenser. That should ...


2

I would spray them with a cold process galvanizing or Zinc-rich spray paint. This will prevent the rusting and can be done in place, use a wire brush to clean the rust off shake the can 2x of the instructions and recoat the area. I use this method after welding galvanized parts together because I grind the galvanized coating off to allow a clean weld and ...


2

I think the answer to your first question is already evident to you. If you cannot get to it, you cannot paint it. They do manufacture some specialty application tools for tight areas, such as mini-rollers and "paint gloves": My experience with these items has been less than fantastic, but maybe getting some paint on those hidden areas is more important ...


2

I don’t want to give you “The Slip” so I’m doing this “With Teeth” in, but even Kurt Cobain and the Foo Fighters knows that when you strike a galvanized coated nail with a hammer, some galvanizing comes off and the head of the nail will rust quicker than the rest of the nail. So, yes, it will rust when cut off.


2

In addition to the previous two answers, I recommend against galvanized hardware in pressure treated wood unless the packaging specifically indicates that they are suitable for that use. Afaik only hot dipped galvanized is suitable for use with PT, nails are often electrogalvanized.


2

Since the surface is already painted I would not use a primer but getting that loose paint off will be important or the same will happen to this coat of paint. You could use a paint scraper or corse sandpaper to help clean the loose stuff up but I would use an angle grinder with a wire brush , I use cup brushes with twisted wire to clean even badly rusted ...


1

For most woodworking tools, there is no particular need or benefit from a "glassy" or totally-rust-free surface. A moderate case of smooth, tight, non-flaky rust is immaterial to the function. I put paste wax on (bowling-alley wax - unlike most floor waxes it does not have abrasives in it - you also want to avoid silicones or you may have finishing problems ...


1

I'm surprised at the chalking. Epoxy generally does that when it's exposed to UV light, such as from the sun. If sun exposure is the reason for the chalking, the impossible-to-access areas also are not getting sunlight and are probably not failing. Because of the UV vulnerability, epoxy is a very bad choice of topcoat for any outdoor painting. However ...


1

They are completely safe for use. But before you apply one of these plastic products, first get some rust reducer. Sand or scrape to remove most of the rust, and then apply the rust reducer. These reverse the oxidation process as well as providing a smooth surface suitable for painting or covering with those plastic products.


1

It sounds like you're not talking about the actual key lock itself or the pins & tumblers, and I think you only mean the steel D bar & latch, very similar to car door hinges & latches, so a similar solution should work. The owner's manuals for cars I've had recommended using one of these two, re-applied every few months or whenever it seems ...


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