14

I will tackle this from three ways. I work as a general contractor when doing flips. I would hope to remember to put up plastic or block off areas. First because I do not want things in other areas to get damaged and secondly because I can allocate someone I am paying $15 an hour to do this. If I didn't think ahead... I don't have 1 plumber out of the 5-...


6

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not ...


6

It is certainly acceptable for the boxes to sit back a little; NEC 314.20 allows a flush mount box to be up to 1/4" back in a non-combustible material like drywall. (See below.) But without a doubt it makes installing the devices (switches and receptacles) more of a pain. There are plastic boxes that work fine with 5/8" drywall. You can nail on ...


6

You are "f'ing" crazy if you think that raising part of your floor is easier than doing some very very minor concrete work. There are all these gotchas for raising a floor and then finishing it so it doesn't look ghetto. Now for doing it right there is breaking concrete, creating a bed for pipe, laying pipe, backfilling, and then adding in ...


5

You can do a number of things here: Shorten the stud board coming down to the header and move the header up 1.5” to 2” inches (I would do that ) - a nice oscillating cutting tool would make that easy to do right in place. I would then install my cabinet - and I would have a sturdy upper frame for it as well. You could remove it , replace it with something ...


5

Just leave a tail hanging at the location of the first light can. Tape the cleanly-cut end (in case someone does something stupid at the panel) and let the inspector know what's up. Everything after that can be addressed at final inspection. The same situation (and solution) applies for bathroom vanities and other fixture-only (no box) lighting.


5

Cut a 2x4 to length and rip 1-1/4" off each side. Put those up against the top plate, one inside and one outside. The half inch hollow in between is inconsequential. End view _____ |_____| <-- top wall plate |_| |_| <-- 1-1/4" high rippers


4

According to IRC, for supply system testing. You have to test using the maximum working pressure (80 psi) of water, or 50 psi of air. And you have to maintain the pressure for 15 minutes. For air testing drain-waste-vent (DWV) systems, you have to maintain 5 psi for 15 minutes. Contact your local government, to find out what they require. International ...


4

That's for a shower drain. It's common to leave an opening about that size to allow for slight variation in tub position, manipulation of the trap assembly, etc. You should find a stub under the dirt. Normally you'd remove the lumber, which was a temporary concrete form.


4

Would I expect a plumber to do it? No. Would some plumbers do it? Probably. If there's a general contractor, I'd have expected them to delegate the task. You should definitely discuss this with them, and try to work out a solution. If there's not a general contractor, site preparation would be your responsibility. If this is the case, I might have ...


4

I've learned over the years that when starting any job communication is the key factor. If I sense the home owner is not asking pertinent question I will briefly lay out the work for the day. Regarding the plumbers stating it wasn't their responsibility to set-up dust containment, well don't feel every plumber is this indifferent. Either way they should have ...


4

Yes. There is no code preventing this. Also this makes sense because all of your leak issues are in the same place. One other bit of advice - before you close up the wall get rid of the the metal and cast iron venting/drains. It will cost you $20 and the pvc will have less problems and last longer (and won't be flagged on future home inspection). [...


4

The general guidelines: Don't notch a joist. (it's legal under the correct circumstances, but don't consider it until you have no other choice.) Don't drill a joist near the ends. (how near is near? Stick to the middle third and be safe. ) Only drill on the center-line of the joist. (This is the area under least stress). keep your holes less than 1/3 the ...


4

You want to follow the instructions given to cut the upper short stud some and then move the header up the requisite amount. Make sure to re-nail the lower end of the short stud to the raised header. Please ignore the noise here regarding removing the header entirely. You do not want to do that since that upper short stud lower end would be unsecured and ...


4

You should be able to stack two furring strips on each side of the top plate. The one I'm looking at right now is 5/8" thick, stacked would be 1.25".


4

IMHO, a truly professional job won't be using plastic boxes. I don't think the 1/8" is a problem - and it keeps from having the boxes proud of the surface, which IS a problem.


3

I think you don't "have to" break up the concrete. Let's say your shower/tub extends out 30inches. Whether you have to break up concrete around shower pan or for tub depends on what you install. The last few pans I installed in basements met above grade -slightly. Also note that you will have to find a pan/tub that fits those exact dimensions or you will ...


3

I ended up contacting the plumbing company that did the rough in. They said: 1-Drain and vent for basement sink 2-Toilet rough-in 3-Backwater Valve 4-Tub Drain


3

Generally for interior doors the RO (Rough Opening) is 2 inches wider than the door slab. This gives 3/4" for the jamb and 1/4" of 'play' for each side, for you to adjust the jamb to make the door operate properly. So if you've got 29 13/16 instead of 30, you'll end up with a little over 1/4 of play total instead of 1/2. Still should be plenty if your jacks ...


3

Plumbing in concrete slabs pretty much requires ripping the floor open to make any changes to it. I suppose if you chose a new toilet with a LARGE base and were very careful you MIGHT be able to keep all the floor damage under it, but that's making assumptions that you'll be able to rework cast iron pipes (not the most cooperative things) through a fairly ...


3

I might quibble about floor thickness (3/4 for wood strip flooring), jamb thickness (closer to 5/8) and you're missing a gap between jamb and header (1/2 to 3/4), so I would add 1/4 +1/4 +1/2 to 3/4 for a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 RO


3

Closet to the corner against wall is for a shower or bath drain. The next is toilet drain. The next is where you attach the sink drain. The fourth (closest to camera) is the main stack for the house, with the main line clean out at the bottom.


3

The box must be large enough for the wire fill and device by code since you are installing a 20 amp circuit it should be #12 wire. #12 wire has a volume of 2.25 per conductor and 4.5 for the device so if you use a shallow box and only run the 3 wires into it the box volume would need to be 11.25 sq inch (listed value not measured) if there is enough room to ...


3

What size battery do you have? When using large bits the drill draws a high amperage the smaller batteries just cannot sustain a heavy load. For example a 1 amp hour drill may be able to drill an inch but jump to a 4 amp hour or larger and it may not over heat and shutdown at all, I found this especially true with my battery band saw, trying to cut 2" pipe ...


3

Ask your inspection office whether stud shoes are acceptable. They're sometimes listed for code compliance. Quick and easy, if not terribly cheap.


3

I had a weird offset flange in a bathroom where I replaced a toilet and like you, couldn't come close to finding one at my locals shops. At this point one option is to visit a plumbing supply outlet and see if they can help. They are the ones who know about these specialty items.


3

The only two things that come to mind are that a box must be set at an appropriate depth so that it rises to the surface of the final wall covering, and that NM-B cable must be protected by a nail plate when it passes through framing within 1.5" of the edge/surface. If the wire-behind-box arrangement were done in a 2x4 wall there could be a problem. It ...


3

With a 9’ ceiling you can do what you want without cutting the slab. The only negative is there will be a step into the bathroom (not a horrible thing I have had to do this for a 1/2 bath because the drain itself was directly below the slab on 1 house. I would be aware if there are roughed in showers, those traps will be below the concrete normally and you ...


3

Pour concrete (or mortar mix) to fill the space and embed your bolts into. Wrap or otherwise protect the pipe. The UPC says: 312.1 ...Voids around piping passing through concrete floors on the ground shall be sealed. 312.2 Piping in connection with a plumbing system shall be so installed that piping or connections will not be subject to undue strains or ...


2

Just use an old work box. Cut the hole in the wall to fit the box. Slide the box in with the tabs folded down. Turn the screws until the tabs flip out and grab the back of the wallboard.


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