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14

As a R.R.C. and roofer for over 25 years, this doesn't surprise me. Anyone with a pickup truck and a ladder calls himself a roofer. This is wrong, if they eliminated vents they should have replaced the sheathing. An opening up to 4"x4" can be covered with metal, but anything bigger requires re-sheathing to eliminate a fall hazard. Also the nail pattern ...


8

It is not acceptable that the roofing materials were replaced over the plywood cutouts (which actually look more like breakouts). One can surmise that the stripping crew came one day and removed all the old roofing material and did the breakouts. Before calling it a day they rolled out the underlayment (a.k.a tar paper) and covered over the breakouts in ...


7

WHAT, he eliminated your air vents? Wow, your update is so revealing: 1) sheetmetal is not an acceptable cover over large openings, 2) if sheetmetal was used, it was not nailed to the existing plywood, 3) he eliminated air vents, Sheetmetal is allowed to cover openings in plywood roof sheathing up to 4” x 4” only. Any opening larger needs solid sheathing. (...


6

To properly answer this question requires proper interpretation of: Published Building Codes (depending on what part of Canada the residence is in. Canadian Building Codes applicable to the specific region where the Re Roofing is taking place. Some are based on NBC (National Building Code of Canada) some regions are based on ICC (International Code Council ...


5

There are several ways to do this but given that the building is small, not in the Far East, and obviously not an expensive architecture demonstration, the builder probably simulated carved rafters by adding carved wedges or stacked wedges to standard rafter beams. Given the apparent age of the building, the roof cladding is probably 1" boards fastened ...


3

No, this is not OK. Standing water will deteriorate any membrane and eventually cause the roofing and roof structure to deteriorate. The wetting and drying process puts stresses on the roofing. The edge of a “puddle” has different coefficients of expansion and contraction. This different movement will reduce the life of the roofing. Good roof design is ...


3

So your existing roofing is either wood shingles, wood shakes or tile ( clay, concrete, etc.) These types of roofs can span across gaps in the roof sheathing. Your new roof is going to be composition shingles that need solid sheathing. Yes, it is quite common to add solid sheathing over the top of the spaced sheathing. The added weight will be off-set by ...


3

I found that the best way (in my case) was to make a small incision to get a patch behind or underneath the sheet glued on with plenty of rubber cement, and then put a larger patch over the top with a generous amount of rubber cement, smoothing the edges with glue as well.


3

This is not normal practice. This isn't even shoddy workmanship. This is downright deceitful. What type of roof is on top of this? those nails punching through could be leaking now or in the future. You should definitely be giving the contractor call about this. This isn't something he can say is out of warranty. Good luck. OK, I just asked a licensed ...


2

Exposed wood must always be sealed in some fashion unless it's chemically treated or of a species that's rot-resistant (cedar, teak, etc.). Even then it tends to preserve the aesthetics of wood to paint, oil, or varnish it. Metal fascia is commonly installed right over "subfascia" (raw SPF 2x6 lumber). If everything is installed correctly it should never ...


2

Just add the "borders" to your roof, those must start at the top and line all the side to the gutter. This picture is an example (see the copper plate on the side):


2

That edge of your roof is called the “rake” edge. Water is probably running off it because 1) it’s slightly lower than the main roof, or 2) heavy rain and wind pushes it off that edge. To keep the water from coming off the rake edge, is recommend a “standing seam” edge. The height will depend on how much rain you get and the length of the rake edge. ...


2

Photos can help, but shingle lots vary even within the same brand and color. Your best bet is to remove a shingle and look for a brand. Once you have that there's probably only one color that's an obvious match. Either look up manufacturer websites or visit a store with a wide range of offerings and do a direct comparison. Keep in mind that age and normal ...


2

I still consider it a gambrel. The word simply means "leg" or "forked leg", describing the interior supporting timbers. The inherent flaw in the design as you've shown it is potential lack of rigidity at the upper angles. Unless they're robustly gusseted there and at the lower angles they're in danger of inverting at those points. There isn't enough arch to ...


2

https://manthorpebuildingproducts.co.uk/contentfiles/files/MBP8249-F%20-%20GLV%20SmartVerge%20Linear%20Dry%20Verge%20System%20-%20Fitting%20Instructions%20(web).pdf. This link will show you how the material is fixed in place. It looks like to remove the bottom piece, you will need to remove the upper piece or pieces, first.


2

It's perfectly possible to have a lap seam in an EPDM rubber roof. The important thing is that the lap seam is horizontal, with the upper piece overlapping on top of the lower piece. The strength in a rubber roof is in the fact that no one has destroyed the rubber chemically by attempting a repair with random cheap roof-patch materials from the ...


2

As far as UV resistance, you're in luck. Multiple coatings stack, so the silver coating you'll be overtopping will still be 100% effective on whatever UV (if any) gets through your next layers. As far as reflective insulation, you have one choice: White with a 90%+ albedo. If your hope is to both have the roof reflect solar heat and also present multi-...


2

You'll receive diagrams showing critical points to hit, such as the first full-depth truss from one end. Modern hip truss sets typically have a view different types of trusses, depending on size and the existence of jogs in the building outline. From one end to the center: Shorty trusses that abut the first full-width truss and create the end overhangs. ...


2

This is completely unacceptable and the contractor is defrauding you. If the contractor said he would replace the defective plywood and did not do so, then he didn't fulfill his contract with you. If he declines to finish the job properly then he has defrauded you. Such large missing areas of roof cladding are not acceptable. This is not normal practice, ...


2

As a licensed home improvement contractor this is not acceptable at all. The roofer is a liar and don't expect much from him. Here locally in Virginia we have a few engineering firms that specialize in building envelopes. I have had them pick 50 random shingle and inspect the nail pattern. How many nails, location over or under driven. Any nail that ...


2

Questions: Q1: Is this a reasonable/acceptable plan? Yes & no...more below. Meets code? You'll need to run all of this by your local/city inspectors/building code enforcement folks to get the answer. Energy efficient? Roofing-wise, I believe it is. Several inches of foam will be quite efficient--but that may be undone by what your other choices are ...


1

Depending on how far up your roof is, if you paint it you probably won't notice the nails penetrating. This is fairly common when there is no decorative soffit and just the underside of non plywood sheathing. Yours did look surprisingly good before. I've never seen one that didn't end up looking like a bed of nails but the ones I see have typically been ...


1

Steel is often used for beams when wood isn't strong enough for the allowed vertical dimension. You might be able to reinforce it with a structural angle. My gut feel is that this would be strong enough. Assuming that it extends 2 ft past the problem area on both sides and is bolted to the 2x6(?) with 5/16 bolts, washers, and nuts, at least 2 on each side of ...


1

Adding a sealer to the surface does not sound like a permanent repair - may last a few seasons... Covering the whole roof again does not sound like a reliable solution. Will this treatment do the 70years the original surface did? I would look at opening that joint by removing the rivets / screws whatever the fixing is, then re-doing that seal and refixing ...


1

For your situation, I would cut the gaps like you suggest and add blocking to force the alignment of the edges. Plywood clips should have been used to keep the edges in alignment, but the gaps should have been there too. Over cut the gaps enough to make sure the butt joints are open totally You will only need to use scraps to block the edges, you could even ...


1

My shed has (better-sheltered) gaps. I believe my shed's gaps are on purpose, to enable air circulation. This prevents mold and mildew problems in the unheated space. I am surprised that your shed has fiberglass insulation in the walls, but not in the ceiling. With no heat, and so many thermal bridges and air gaps, I would be surprised if the insulation ...


1

I suggest you plan to sort that within 2 or 3 years, one reason being that those joint lines should not line up...


1

All roofing manufacturers require a certain size fastener (manual or pneumatic) shank size and head size. They also specify the minimum thickness of roof sheathing. This is primarily to resist wind blow off. Depending on where the installation is located, the minimum thickness of sheathing is either 1/2” or 5/8” (for high wind areas). You can buy the ...


1

It's basically a portico or bay window awning.


1

Yes, the roof sheathing could go bad (weaken) after a few years due to 1) moisture, 2) extra heavy snow loads 1) Moisture is the most likely problem. Plywood is made from wood veneer plies that are glued together. When moisture seeps into the plies, they will delaminate. The plywood will probably look fine from the attic (looking up) but it will become ...


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