8

The issue is thermal... and we're fighting two completely separate types of thermal wars. The war on fire: Incandescent bulbs don't care about heat, they love it, they love being oven lights. They also create a lot of it! A 40W bulb makes 39 watts of heat and 1 watt of light. So with incandescent, the war is to keep the incandescent's heat from setting ...


6

Not unless you wrap the entire length in green electrical tape, or you wired the circuit with 4 AWG or larger conductors. National Electrical Code says that equipment grounding conductors can be bare, covered, or insulated. It goes on to say "Individually covered or insulated equipment grounding conductors shall have a continuous outer finish that is either ...


6

Cutting Cast Iron Pipe The most common and quickest way to cut cast iron is the by the use of snap cutters. There are two types: scissors and ratachet. You can also cut cast iron with (in order of fastest to slowest) angle grinder, a reciprocating saw or a hacksaw. In order to use a grinder, you'll need room all around the pipe. Connecting to Cast Iron ...


6

I would consider cutting the whole mess out at the bottom end and connect A new “ABS” black pipe with a “no hub” it is a rubber connector with bands on each end to tighten then tie into the upper area . This will be much easier than packing oakum and poring the lead on top; everything can be fitted together prior to gluing so you know it is right where ...


6

Before you get wrapped up in "notch", have you considered drilling a hole? A long(ish) bit, either auger or spade, will go a good long ways, which makes it easy to deal with tight spaces. And you can pick up a 10-14 inch extension if you need one.


5

Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - the can and the trim. They need to match. The first issue will be getting the old can out. If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace ...


5

the wall is 13x8 and the boards are 4x8, the simplest way is to put the 8 dimesnion of the boards on the 8 dimension of the wall. As the boards need to be nailed all round the perimeter, if you lay the boards horizontally you'll need to add blocking to catch the edges of the boards. If you stand them vertically you'll need a stud where the edges of the ...


4

This conference presentation (PDF) seems to lay out the process fairly well. It also mentions a few resources that go into more detailed calculations and considerations. The Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors’ National Association has an overview guide available here (PDF) for improving efficiency. They also have entire standards available for ...


4

Just get replacement windows instead of new construction and use tapcons to fasten the windows through the sides. Caulk outside good to keep out water. Foundation should also be graded away from the window to keep out water.


3

Yes - I would try the LED Flood light first which generate less heat than incandescent. This is less work than trying to convert the current can mounts to 4" round to mount the flat panels that are mounted by a crossbar in the outlet box. Flat panels don't need a can, but still needs feed outlet, either for power and some for the mounting point. Below is ...


3

I would need to see pictures of what said bulbs look like in your current cans but I can tell you that they sell thousands of varieties of recessed lighting trim for 6 inch cans. I am almost positive you can find trim that will work for your 4 inch retrofits and you don't have to touch the drywall.


3

I've done this. I have a great solution. Simply take the hot circuit to the sensor and to the light switch and run them in parallel. The only downfall is that you won't be able to turn the light off when the sensor has control. But I haven't found this to be a problem.


3

I would caution to not remove anything you do not know what it controls. House fans are common, an exhaust fan in the attic? I caution that trying to make resistance measurements is normally a waste of time and I have seen a lot of ruined meters when DIY folks and apprentices have measured live circuits. Why are resistance measurements questionable? A ...


3

Plywood shear clips are outdated and seldom used anymore. (Most designers can reduce the thickness of the sheathing and use T&G edges.) Plywood is structurally rated for roof and floor insulation. The code allows roof sheathing to span certain distances based on loading (psf) and span. So for sheathing spanning 30” or 48” the sheathing is acceptable if ...


2

All motion detectors have an override mode. Typically this is done by either flipping the wall switch off/on in a certain pattern, or by a switch on the motion head. Thing is, when you put it in override mode every one I have seen reverts back to motion after the next night/day cycle. I have NEVER seen a motion detector that has a permanent manual override ...


2

Wear. The overlays appear to be solid hardwood. The plywood is a thin veneer over other non hardwood plys. As the steps wear, you run the risk of wearing through the veneer. Even if you don't, if you need to refinish, you again risk sanding through that thin top layer. In my old house, the bottom stair had a worn dip in the middle (reputedly eroded by my ...


2

My guess is that you really don't want to shrink the holes that the existing 6" recessed lights are in. That requires a lot of drywall skill, paint color matching, paint blending, and a lot of work to make your ceiling look as good as it does now. Instead, I think you should consider LEDs with a 6" baffle trim. This video shows an example: http://www....


2

Devices exist which are basically heaters with timers, which can be mounted under a traditional thermostat to bias it toward turning the heat off sooner. By juggling the two settings, this can be made to work somewhat like a setback thermostat. Mostly obsolete, since not very efficient, but useful in cases where the owner forbids installing a real smart ...


2

The Tospo is a cheap Chinese ballast. To find ballasts, start with what bulbs will fit in the fixture (all the better if you have a bulb already). Then search for ballasts meant to drive that bulb (which also fit in your fixture). I think I see several on 1000bulbs.com in the $20 range. LED strips really, really do not like to bend on the flat side. ...


2

Floorplan is not enough. They need to visit and take extensive measurements to engineer the system. If you want "bells and whistles" (there's lots of options) you need to decide on those too. They will need to investigate the location, size, and routing of the service main as well. They should be able to determine minimum requirements for your locale by ...


2

While you may be able to do this yourself. There are many pitfalls, stumbling blocks, and code nuances that rookies are just not aware of. My advice is to get an experienced HVAC contractor involved, at least during the planning process. Once the system is planned out, carrying out that plan is a fairly DIY friendly job. Unless of course, you have to deal ...


2

First, that fixture looks permanently hardwired. If so, you'll want to add a ballast disconnect. Code requires it, unless you argue that the fixture is now ballastless. But it's so darn convenient that I add them immediately upon starting work, and then, turn the power back on! Cutting the wires off at the ballast is someting I only do to ballasts which ...


2

Each window manufacturer has an engineering department that can help you calculate the maximum size for your particular location. Each region in the U.S. has a wind load requirement. Based on that wind load, each brand of window and each series (style of window) can only support a maximum window size. Here’s their customer service info: https://www....


2

I'd use a saddle box instead Instead of trying to cobble together something out of two different boxes, raising issues of access to the upper box, I would use a saddle box that fits around the rafter instead, as shown below (photo for exposition only). This provides adequate space for splicing while allowing easy access to all the wiring here just by ...


2

Because the radiant floor could get too hot while the external temperature sensor still indicates below required T. This could damage the element or part of the floor. The underfloor heating (water) I fitted had two temperature sensors - one for the ambient and one at the output of the mixing valve to shut down the pump if the output was above a certain ...


2

Are you trying to solve a specific problem with the structure? If so, you might indeed want to engage an engineer. If you are simply trying to add a little rigidity to your building, plywood is a good choice. It will work in either orientation, but horizontal brick pattern is most typical. Consider tying the ends (and sides) together with sheathing ...


1

The issue with old building foundations is usually settling, which shows up as wall cracks. The underlying culprit is generally inadequate footings, if there are any. A solid foundation still cracks if it settles. Also, a solid foundation isn’t necessarily congruent with a seismic foundation. An earthquake can break any solid foundation. Foundations ...


1

The thread sizes for these mounting fittings are specified in IPS, "Iron Pipe Straight." It's a hold over from when lights were mounted on repurposed gas lighting, which used the IPS sizing. Later IPS was replaced with NPS but the nominal sizes are not the same. Lamps still use the old IPS sizing. I believe the size you have there is 1/2" IPS. Try a 1/...


1

I haven’t done hot tar since my dad passed so this is from 40 years back I might be forgetting. Today I would wear a tyvek suit as every job ruined a pair of pants. We used to use a weed burner and heat the top layer snow coat or whatever it was until it could be picked up with a shovel, yes the tar can catch fire if you get it two hot , lay the shovel ...


1

You only need retrofit soffit vents if you want passive airflow. They will be a very good idea when you sheetrock the lid, but you don't need it yet. Is this for cooling or moisture control? Moisture is a lot more complicated. Evacuating hot air is as simple as having adequate vent area and airflow.


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