New answers tagged

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Everyone has already noted in the comments how and why MDF is not a good material to use around water or moisture and that you'll likely have future issues so that is not addressed in this answer. This answer is for the case that you still wish to go forward with your work, perhaps as a temporary fix. Can I just use any undercoat and paint it with any ...


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Looked at some of the suggestions regarding this. Looks like the heavy handed ‘bash it with a hammer’ approach is easiest. I’m going to cover the glass threaded part that is still in place with clear sellotape to try and cut down on the shards flying off. Let you know how it goes.


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Something physical and not something electronic. Either a bad connection or more likely a bad switch or sensor. The slap causes something to move and close or open a circuit or provide updated information to the electronic controller. Electronics don't work that way and jarring won't fix them directly, though could via a power or other cord etc. A good ...


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If it's a bad compressor relay, the fan will continue to run, but the compressor won't turn on (unless maybe if you bang it). If the fan is on, check the compressor relay. So if the fan doesn't run but the light is on, it's more likely the door switch. If the light doesn't come on, check the outlet. Compressor relays are cheap (around $20) and easy to ...


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It could be a door switch but also could be the contactor or relay that runs the compressor has bad contacts. Sometimes wiggling them will allow them to seat so it starts again, if it is getting worse over time I would probably replace first you could test Jraef’s theory by opening the door while it is running if it keeps running it’s the contactor or relay.


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In some fridges, the compressor and fan are turned off when you open the door. If your door switch sticks open, it would not turn on. Banging on the side of the fridge might be jostling the switch so that it closes again. Bottom line, the door switch would need replacing.


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I deal with excessive moisture in the house by using a portable dehumidifier. I live up in the Seattle area where we get a LOT of moisture. A side effect is that it creates heat from both the electricity used and that water vapor needs to release heat to condensate (the opposite of steam from heated water); this a positive in the winter (free heat from the ...


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You can try one of those round rubber jar opener and if that doesn't work, go to your Harbor Tool store and purchase a rubber strap wrench. At Harbor, it is sold as a set of three and relatively inexpensive. Use the one that fits. Also, try spraying some WD-40 penetrating oil at the base so it loosens the thread (don't get any on the upper part; only the ...


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It sounds like there's a plumbing problem. berhaps there's a blockages somewhere inside the dishwasher, or perhaps the pump is malfunctioning. Start by checking all the easily accessable filters. If you haven't tried it yet run a cycle with dishwasher cleaner. equally it could be a defective sensor causing the cycle to pause or even skip steps.


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Per the manual, It is normal for dishwasher to pause (no sound) when the wash action is switching between the lower and middle spray arms but 17+ hours, yeah, somethings wrong. Hard to troubleshoot, could be the computer in the panel, some sensor. I think you need to get it serviced


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If it's brand new, take it back to where you purchased it and get another one. Makita has great warranties on their products. Don't try to take it apart or otherwise fix it or you'll void the warranty. Good luck.


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While there are various possible causes (aside from not cleaning acid flux properly, the one that comes to mind in that location is improper/insufficient support causing a bending force on the pipe from the Y junction) I personally would replace as much as possible with PVC (and take your copper to the scrapyard.) If you are prone to consider that going ...


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That's a bad spot to have a leak. That could have been caused by too much heat from a torch or excess acid flux. You might be able to cut the 1 1/4" pipe on the other side of the support and heat the joint going into the "y" and remove the piece of pipe. Then clean out all the old solder by heating up the pipe and wiping out solder. Use emery paper to clean ...


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I ended up going to Michael's, a chain arts & crafts store, hobby store. While I didnt see chrome, I picked up an Extra Fine Tip Multi-Surface Premium Paint Pen by Craft Smart in metallic silver. It actually worked very well. I was able to cover the bare spots, which were very small and hidden. Unless you were looking for it, you wouldnt spot the ...


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Paints have improved quite a bit over the years and quality plays a big role too. This paint provides good results Krylon K01010A07 Premium Metalic Original Chrome


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When refinishing old surfaces like that, I have had great results finding the right compound to do what is called I think, re-amalgamation. It is when the proper solvent or compound I called it earlier, is used to melt the finish on the surface and allowed to dry again. It will remove some of the finish, or perhaps even most of it if too much is applied and ...


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You have got your work cut out for you. in my opinion that thing needs a complete refinishing. You’re going to want to use a stripper such as a citrus-based stripper and strip off all of the old varnish. Once all the varnish is stripped off then you’re going to want to sand the wood, there appeared to be some deep scratches so you’re going to want to start ...


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For a small job like that, I think construction adhesive would do the trick. Most local hardware stores should sell it. You'd need a caulking gun, about $5 bucks, to spread the adhesive. The adhesive comes in a cardboard tube similar to the one below. There are many different types.


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Your old dimmer had neutral, eh? Now think that through. Let's see. We've got safety ground; then always-hot as supply; then neutral to power the device -- Wait, aren't we missing something? How does it power the light??? The answer is, that wire you have identified as neutral, is not neutral at all. It is surely switched/dimmed hot to the light. The ...


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I believe that JRaef provided the answer that smart switches need power even when 'off' and therefore need a complete circuit which is provided via the additional connection


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I know this is not the answer you are looking for, for this wall is ready for plastering as it is. It will need a scrubbing or power washing to remove all or most of the dust left over from the original plaster. To get the wall flat like you ask Will require at least scraping with a tool like this. (image courtesy Razorback) This will be very time ...


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For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean. I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...


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If the blue circle is accurate in your picture, there is not that much damage to keep an oversized strike from working. Home Centers carry these although they are not the best looking item, they will fix the problem easily. Picture courtesy Home Depot You may even be able to use a "tee" strike, the strike is slightly larger than the standard, easy to ...


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You could use drywall mud, over patch it and then sand down to match. 'Hot mud' is stronger but is harder to sand so get it closer to the proper shape before letting it dry.


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That looks just like the terminal fitting for a lamp or bulb holder. Too cheap to be available separately. I would suggest it is easier to purchase a complete unit especially as some parts may have been changed over time.


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Get a 14" Craftsman or RIDGID pipe wrench. Clamp it on to the valve and turn it counter clockwise. Game over.


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If you try to repair that crack then the complete length needs supporting as it is flexing too much. I had one where we noticed the flex early and I fitted a beam with supports underneath - made access a bit more difficult but still ok. Seen one where the next crack developed a short distance down from the repair so think carefully about the real cause as ...


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If you just had it replaced then that means that your contractor should fix this issue. Regarding fix vs replace: I suggest trying to work that out with your contractor. If the decision is to attempt a repair I would be sure to get IN WRITING that they are guarantying the repair of the tub. You paid your good money to have your new bathroom and you deserve ...


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