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The answer is surprisingly simple: the bolt expands, but the nut expands more. What is happening here is good old thermal expansion: The bolt is heated and expands outwards, its radius increasing The nut is heated and... expands outwards, its radius increasing Now, since the nut's radius is slightly greater than the bolt's, and since the increase is ...


Once we bought an old pallet factory, so I really got to "see how the sausage is made". Pallets are made in extremely, extremely high production because the typical corporate customer orders thousands and pays about $6 each for them. There are also an infinite number of pallet sizes and styles, though most fit a 40x48 footprint. These two requirements ...


I use a device called a nail jack. It will work with or without a nail head. It has a beak that you center on the nail then a slide that you smack down on and it bites the nail. After it has a grip 1 sole has a lever that you rock back on and it pulls the nail out. I have used on all sizes of nails in both hard wood and soft wood. Aged oak with nails is the ...


Twist in the proper direction Are you turning the right way? Remember, "Righty tighty, Lefty loosy" (which never made sense to me). Most screws are right-handed threads, so you'll turn them anti(counter)-clockwise to remove them. In some situations left-hand thread screws are used (usually to prevent screws from loosening due to rotational forces), so you'...


The secret is constrained expansion. Here's some cruddy diagrams to help explain how it works. Bolt stuck in a hole When the bolt is heated, it expands. Since the shaft of the bolt is constrained, it can't expand inside the hole. The bolt expands in the direction of the green arrow, but cannot expand in the direction of the red arrows. As the bolt ...


The actual reason this usually works is that rust is significantly larger than the steel it's rusted from, which is why the bolt is stuck in the first place. In some other instances the reason heat works is that the bolt was applied with a threadlocker that requires heating to remove (if it comes out with no sign of rust, that's a pretty good bet) Many ...


Before you put a lot of work into removing the screw, you should try placing an elastic band between the screwdriver and the screw. Often when the screw isn't completely stripped this method works fairly well.


I had a very similar light, and the key was this: Any upward pressure exerted from grabbing the glass created friction that made it not turn. You want to touch as lightly as you can, near the edges, and try to apply rotational energy only, with no pushing up. Unfortunately, that is roughly impossible to do if you're reaching so high that you need to ...


This is a pop rivet, not a bolt. It can only be removed destructively. Drill out the center with a drill bit meant for metal (as opposed to a brad point bit, for instance) until the flange come off. Use a bit roughly half the diameter of the flange. When the flange breaks free, it will get stuck on the tip of your drill bit, which you will then remove ...


I'd take a different approach. I'd simply drive them in with a nail set so they effectively disappear. In cases where you need to make cuts, shift things to avoid the nail locations.


When I used to do a lot of these for a building/renovation company, the approach our foreman recommended was to assume the drywall will need replacing anyway and just rip it out. That would let you remove that entire panel in 45 minutes, and then you can just pop a new piece of drywall in, which is another 15 minutes. As you can see from your 45 minutes, ...


You can go at it with a sledgehammer (or a smaller hand sledge) and a star drill, and then drive wedges into the holes (or if you are patient, fill the holes with water and let them freeze in the winter.) There are special wedges designed for use in round holes for splitting rock (feathers and wedges seems to find them).


Metal arranged in a ring expands outward when heated. Imagine a ring of thin wire being heated--it expands primarily along its length, making both the inner and outer diameters larger. The same occurs with the material around a bolt hole. Generally, I try to heat the surrounding piece and not the bolt itself. However, even if the bolt is heated directly, ...


I had these on painted wooden cabinet doors. I slid dental floss behind the plastic part which cut the plastic latch off, leaving the foam adhered to the door. Then I peeled the foam off by hand and it did no damage. I couldn't believe how easy it was! I thought it was stuck for good.


If you have acess to Dremel or other rotary tool you can use a cutoff /abrasive wheel attachment to cut them off. They may have been inserted by a power tool that fires them in with a gunpowder charge. If this is the case prying them out will be difficult if not impossible. You could try a Sawzall but these type of fasteners are very hard and you will go ...


Put a bit of ajax powder on the screw driver tip mixed with your spit. It fills in and adds friction. Also, you can use fine dirt as a substitute for the ajax. I have used this method with great success for many years.


I don't agree with any of the comments. It is impractical to move it. First unless you use big equipment the chances of it breaking are solid. But lets look past moving it and say that is "easy". Where are you moving it to? The bottom is probably all over the place meaning that unless where you are moving it to has very similar ground characteristics ...


There exist expanding compounds like this one: Ecobust, which are poured into predrilled holes and expand as they dry, splitting the stone (or concrete). It does require a power tool, unless there are already some cracks in your boulder, but a cordless hammer drill should be sufficient.


I know this may not apply to every situation, but as an electrician I use a pair of side cutters and leverage it out of a hole. Lineman's pliers work too if there is enough space and you can get enough of a grip on it.


You might be able to use a pneumatic denailer. It punches the nails through the wood to drive them out, and seems to work from either end of the nail, so would not require the nail to have a head. It is probably an expensive investment for a one-time task, but you may be able to rent one from your local home-improvement store. Here is a video of the ...


Abrasive paste as sold in car repair shops to use when grinding in valves in cylinder heads is great for screw heads that are 'worn'. Place a small dab on the screwdriver head before trying to unscrew the item. The friction from the abrasive in the paste will help the screwdriver 'grab' the worn screw slot..


Removing glue from any surface is a thankless task. You will not be able to return the floor to an as-built state. You're going to have to cover it with something. You're going to have to dissolve it and scrape it. And it's going to be a heck of job. Some expert google-fu has yielded Baby Oil as a potential solvent. Other suggestions were mineral oil. ...


Try pushing the pipe in a bit, before pulling it out. Sometimes the barbs dig into the pipe, so the release ring can't disengage them. Pushing the pipe in, may allow the release to completely disengage the barbs. Use the tool to compress the release ring. Push the tubing deeper into the fitting, while keeping pressure on the release tool. Pull the tubing ...


If it is a nice looking rock or has a particular shape, place it on Craig's list as a free item. I listed four 5" Blue Spruce trees I needed to remove to make way for a garage. Gone over the weekend and I didn't have to lift a hand.


If you want to use wood glue again, I'd remove the old glue. You'll get a stronger bond if you apply glue to clean wood. A belt sander would do a nice job. If you're ok using urethane glue or project adhesive, the only concern is whether the replaced board will sit above the others. Otherwise I'd have no problem bonding to the old glue if it appears solid. ...


If you have a reciprocating saw (aka "Sawzall") with a metal or demolition blade it should make short work of the nails. Make your cuts at both ends of the vertical studs, between the stud and the header/footer. Once the nails are cut the vertical studs should come right out. You can probably just use a pry bar to pull off the header.


If its metal on metal you can try heating the area or cooling it with ice. Metal expands and contracts with temperature change (works great on spark plugs too!). For screw heads starting to strip, a piece of bicycle inner tube or rubberband between the head and driver bit helps it from stripping further.


From the Liquid Nails faq: How To Remove LIQUID NAILS Adhesive Products from Building Materials In general, LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products can be scraped off when they are softened either by: Heating above 140°F with an electric heat gun or blow dryer Coating the adhesive with petroleum jelly or mineral spirits for ...


I had liquid nails all over my walls for my steps leading downstairs after I tore out the fake brick. I am more than sure that the above answers will work but I like free and I like hitting things. Tools needed: sharp chisel and hammer. Time it took me to do entire stairs: about 1 hour. Procedure: Just keep the chisel flat so it doesn't take out any ...

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