Hot answers tagged

76

The answer is surprisingly simple: the bolt expands, but the nut expands more. What is happening here is good old thermal expansion: The bolt is heated and expands outwards, its radius increasing The nut is heated and... expands outwards, its radius increasing Now, since the nut's radius is slightly greater than the bolt's, and since the increase is ...


55

Once we bought an old pallet factory, so I really got to "see how the sausage is made". Pallets are made in extremely, extremely high production because the typical corporate customer orders thousands and pays about $6 each for them. There are also an infinite number of pallet sizes and styles, though most fit a 40x48 footprint. These two requirements ...


42

I use a device called a nail jack. It will work with or without a nail head. It has a beak that you center on the nail then a slide that you smack down on and it bites the nail. After it has a grip 1 sole has a lever that you rock back on and it pulls the nail out. I have used on all sizes of nails in both hard wood and soft wood. Aged oak with nails is the ...


35

The secret is constrained expansion. Here's some cruddy diagrams to help explain how it works. Bolt stuck in a hole When the bolt is heated, it expands. Since the shaft of the bolt is constrained, it can't expand inside the hole. The bolt expands in the direction of the green arrow, but cannot expand in the direction of the red arrows. As the bolt ...


28

The actual reason this usually works is that rust is significantly larger than the steel it's rusted from, which is why the bolt is stuck in the first place. In some other instances the reason heat works is that the bolt was applied with a threadlocker that requires heating to remove (if it comes out with no sign of rust, that's a pretty good bet) Many ...


20

A kitchen sink is usually relatively large and when made of porcelain it's probably pretty heavy. The putty knife is a good idea but you're fighting against not just the silicone but also the weight of the sink. Also make sure you're not fighting against the plumbing -- the drain or the faucet supply pipes could hamper your efforts. Find a way to apply some ...


16

This is a pop rivet, not a bolt. It can only be removed destructively. Drill out the center with a drill bit meant for metal (as opposed to a brad point bit, for instance) until the flange come off. Use a bit roughly half the diameter of the flange. When the flange breaks free, it will get stuck on the tip of your drill bit, which you will then remove ...


16

I'd take a different approach. I'd simply drive them in with a nail set so they effectively disappear. In cases where you need to make cuts, shift things to avoid the nail locations.


13

You can go at it with a sledgehammer (or a smaller hand sledge) and a star drill, and then drive wedges into the holes (or if you are patient, fill the holes with water and let them freeze in the winter.) There are special wedges designed for use in round holes for splitting rock (feathers and wedges seems to find them). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...


13

Jack up the sink slowly. Take all of the plumbing out, get a car jack or any other type of small jack, put a piece of a 2x6/8 in between and push that thing up. Once you get a little bit of upward tension you will see the areas that are stuck and they should have a few mm showing where you can cut the caulk. My go-tos are WD 40 and goo-gone. Give those ...


12

I had these on painted wooden cabinet doors. I slid dental floss behind the plastic part which cut the plastic latch off, leaving the foam adhered to the door. Then I peeled the foam off by hand and it did no damage. I couldn't believe how easy it was! I thought it was stuck for good.


12

Metal arranged in a ring expands outward when heated. Imagine a ring of thin wire being heated--it expands primarily along its length, making both the inner and outer diameters larger. The same occurs with the material around a bolt hole. Generally, I try to heat the surrounding piece and not the bolt itself. However, even if the bolt is heated directly, ...


12

I would say no don’t use a crowbar unless you are good at repairing/ replacing brick work. I would grind the head off that or burn it off with a oxy-acetylene torch. I have put anchors up and use a torch to make it look like a rivet. In doing this it makes the bolt impossible to pull without cutting the head off. Expanding anchors are usually used so pulling ...


9

I don't agree with any of the comments. It is impractical to move it. First unless you use big equipment the chances of it breaking are solid. But lets look past moving it and say that is "easy". Where are you moving it to? The bottom is probably all over the place meaning that unless where you are moving it to has very similar ground characteristics ...


9

There exist expanding compounds like this one: Ecobust, which are poured into predrilled holes and expand as they dry, splitting the stone (or concrete). It does require a power tool, unless there are already some cracks in your boulder, but a cordless hammer drill should be sufficient.


9

I know this may not apply to every situation, but as an electrician I use a pair of side cutters and leverage it out of a hole. Lineman's pliers work too if there is enough space and you can get enough of a grip on it.


9

You might be able to use a pneumatic denailer. It punches the nails through the wood to drive them out, and seems to work from either end of the nail, so would not require the nail to have a head. It is probably an expensive investment for a one-time task, but you may be able to rent one from your local home-improvement store. Here is a video of the ...


8

Removing glue from any surface is a thankless task. You will not be able to return the floor to an as-built state. You're going to have to cover it with something. You're going to have to dissolve it and scrape it. And it's going to be a heck of job. Some expert google-fu has yielded Baby Oil as a potential solvent. Other suggestions were mineral oil. ...


8

Try pushing the pipe in a bit, before pulling it out. Sometimes the barbs dig into the pipe, so the release ring can't disengage them. Pushing the pipe in, may allow the release to completely disengage the barbs. Use the tool to compress the release ring. Push the tubing deeper into the fitting, while keeping pressure on the release tool. Pull the tubing ...


8

If it is a nice looking rock or has a particular shape, place it on Craig's list as a free item. I listed four 5" Blue Spruce trees I needed to remove to make way for a garage. Gone over the weekend and I didn't have to lift a hand.


8

If you want to use wood glue again, I'd remove the old glue. You'll get a stronger bond if you apply glue to clean wood. A belt sander would do a nice job. If you're ok using urethane glue or project adhesive, the only concern is whether the replaced board will sit above the others. Otherwise I'd have no problem bonding to the old glue if it appears solid. ...


7

From the Liquid Nails faq: How To Remove LIQUID NAILS Adhesive Products from Building Materials In general, LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products can be scraped off when they are softened either by: Heating above 140°F with an electric heat gun or blow dryer Coating the adhesive with petroleum jelly or mineral spirits for ...


7

I had liquid nails all over my walls for my steps leading downstairs after I tore out the fake brick. I am more than sure that the above answers will work but I like free and I like hitting things. Tools needed: sharp chisel and hammer. Time it took me to do entire stairs: about 1 hour. Procedure: Just keep the chisel flat so it doesn't take out any ...


7

Duplex outlets are usually installed in a daisy chained string. If you want to remove one without affecting the others, you should observe carefully what wires are attached to where before disconnecting. Make sure the breakaway tab has NOT been broken away as that would indicate a special situation: Then use a wire nut to join the black wires that were ...


7

These don't come out easily, sometimes they can be pushed back into the wall and dissappear, this is often the case if the person installing it was thinking ahead and drilled the hole deeper than needed as an end-of-life plan. Else you need to drive the shaft back in a bit to release the wedge and then pull on the sleeve part, locking pliers are useful ...


6

For screws that held the original hinge in an old wood door, and would not budge, even with the advice above, I aimed a hair dryer at the screw for a few minutes (thinking that perhaps the wood was damp and that was holding the screw in; could also have been something about heat since I often run hot water over stuck screw tops). Anyway, it worked, with only ...


6

The only thing bearing on that wall are shampoo bottles. Knock away. The wall is empty. Note that the end of the porcelain tub is open, so something will have to go back to cover it up. When it's open you can inspect under the tub for horrors. But you'll also want to remove the wall sheathing all around that tub, and read up about flashing and backer ...


6

You may want to look into a sled type snow shovel. One of these would be far more effective at moving snow around than either of the contraptions that you pictured in your question. These sled type shovels also work well in deeper snow. BTW (despite the fact that shopping type questions / answers are generally discouraged here) you can get the Garant 26 ...


6

As you turn the screw to unscrew it, press on the "point" of the screw to counter the force on the screwdriver trying to push the screw back into the drawer runner. That should allow it to unscrew.


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