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49

With the power off at the breaker, and verified with a non-contact tester, I've always just used a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the rim of the bulb base and turn it to remove. If the bulb is really stuck you might try spraying some WD40 around it. A similar alternative, as others have mentioned in the comments, is to expand a pair of pliers inside of ...


36

Take a piece of duct tape and wrap it in the shape of an "O", with the sticky side of the tape on the outside. Stick the loop of tape to the face of the light bulb such that it is secure. Put your hand (four fingers) inside the loop and twist counterclockwise to loosen the bulb. Credit: https://youtu.be/NNGyhRu7c0I?t=2m


32

In a pinch, if you lack a bulb remover, you can use a potato to remove a broken light bulb. Essentually, you just cut it to a size that'll fit into the socket, but engage with whatever's left of the broken bulb, then twist. This youtube video illustrates the technique.


23

If you are not removing more drywall than needed for the new recessed lights, then no per 334.30(B)(1) (assuming you are using NM cable). There are similar clauses for other flexible cable assemblies (e.g. AC/MC). However, if you are removing drywall as part of the remodel and have access to the studs, then you do need to secure and support according the ...


19

Get a light bulb changer pole at your local home improvement store or your favorite hardware store. The ones with suction cups are best for flood lights, where the face of the bulb is a little flatter, but might have a tougher time gripping smaller, rounder light bulbs where you need something that can fit up inside the fixture and grip the sides of the bulb....


15

According to this site: R20 bulbs have reflectors that direct light forward and produce more narrow soft-edged beam that is less precise than PAR20 bulbs. R20 bulbs also produce less shadow than PAR20 bulbs. PAR20 bulbs control light more precisely and produce more concentrated light than R20. Source: http://www.agreensupply.com/difference-between-par20-...


14

Due to the lack of adequate answers, I decided to research the differences myself and provide an answer to the benefit of the community. PAR Type Lamps From a build quality and light control standpoint, PAR type lamps are generally considered superior. The explicit parabolic nature of the reflector means light is more precisely reflected directly out of ...


14

National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations. If it ...


12

I've never been all that comfortable with @Steven's solution, as it's hard to be sure the power to the light is off when the bulb is broken so you can check, unless you shut off the whole house (or the circuits are actually really well labeled.) Pull-chain switched lights and 3-way switched lights are particularly difficult in this regard. So I bought a ...


12

There's a company that makes suction cup hooks/hangers. You put the suction cup on an object and swing the hook. I'll bet you could attach one of these to the glass and use it to unscrew the bulb. I found this on Amazon. Edit: if the bottom of the bulb is highly curved, this won't work. The surface has to be flat or only slightly curved.


10

PAR = Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. The number is the diameter of the bulb times 8, so divide by 8 to get its diameter. Thus, a PAR30 is a 3.75" diameter bulb. Our last house had PAR30 floods in track lighting in the living room (a style that was all the rage when the house was built in the 1980s). You can use them indoors. The quality of light you get ...


9

IC or Insulated Ceiling or Insulation Contact are required for can lights that touch the insulation. You cannot use a non-IC can by moving or cutting the insulation back the 3 inches required to use a non-IC can. Inspectors see insulation and they expect to see the silver cans, which is what an IC can would look like. The airtight cans are designed to use ...


9

Another trick is to pull the trim out with the bulb but not all trims connect the same. Some use springs, some clip into a socket, while others are sealed. But usually works for me because I do it all the time.


9

LED (and other) light bulbs are available in a variety of different color temperatures. Look at the packaging for the bulbs you bought. Are they labelled as "cool white" or "daylight" with a color temperature around 4000K? Just return them and get something labelled "warm white" or "soft white", with a color temperature around 2700-3000K. While you could ...


9

The shroud around the bulb should just pull down and out a few inches before the tension wires lock. If it seems really solid then someone probably painted then replaced before drying and glued it there with the paint. Try using a flat scraper or 5in1 between ceiling and ring.


8

If you search this on the internet you will find the fixture can be disassembled and the j-box can be accessed through the hole that the fixture is in. Therefore the joints are still accessible. Like here. If you bury a box under drywall it does not meet the definition of accessible according the Code since you would have to remove a portion of the building ...


8

Electricians "fish" wires through existing homes by the thousands every day without stapling. Staple if you can (every 4' in attics, within 12" of all boxes), and don't if you can't. Use some common sense to prevent any future damage to the wiring by avoiding sharp or metallic objects or high-traffic areas.


8

In addition to good answers by @statuephemism and @isherwood, it's worth mentioning why you might want to staple and why in your case it probably doesn't matter. First reason to staple is to keep wires out of the way so they don't get accidentally trapped when fitting new drywall on a ceiling for instance. This isn't relevant if the ceiling is already in ...


7

The 3" clearance clause is referring to clearance to insulation. However, no inspector will OK these if they are near insulation, even if you were to push it 3" away. If you are installing in an insulated space you must use IC (insulation-contact) rated cans. I've done this a couple times now (installed about 35 pots in my house) and it still takes me ...


7

Use oven mitts with silicone grips Works like magic for opening light fixtures, changing light bulbs, opening jars, and so on. If you don't have silicone oven mitts, you can try a silicone baking mat. Just push the mat against the face of the light bulb and unscrew it.


6

There are a number of variables you need to consider in order to space them correctly. First, how much light do you want? Brighter rooms require more lights. Related to this is the max wattage of your cans. You will need more 35W lights to achieve the same brightness you'd get with 50W cans. What type of spread (angle of light ) do the bulbs you plan on ...


6

No, you should not have to replace both of the existing switches on each circuit. You won't be able to dim from both ends, of course. You just need a "3-Way LED Dimmer" and follow the appropriate wiring. Replace one of the switches (on each set of lights that have two switches) with the dimmer - the other switch will turn them on or off, at wherever the ...


5

There really isn't any downside that I'm aware of. Bulbs are a concern, although that applies to any type of light: are they readily available? Can you get them from your local big box store, or do you have to resort to a speciality lighting store, though special order, or from some obscure site on the internet? Regardless of light size, providing the ...


5

Good question. Yes, it's likely that you have to replace everything. This is one of the downsides of recessed lighting... most of the time the wires from the service tie-in are contained inside a housing or inside of a conduit. It's not weird at all to have it be like that... there are very few can light fixtures where this is not the case (due to fire ...


5

Cove or crown molding that is below (free from) the ceiling by 2-4 Inches will give a subdued look. I would place the strip on the wall just below the aperture of the molding (that slit exposed by lowering the molding). Some installations I've seen use a separate wall trim that angles the light strip up..IE attach a wooden strip behind and below the crown, ...


5

Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - the can and the trim. They need to match. The first issue will be getting the old can out. If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace ...


5

First the good news: Electrically it would be fine as long as the PAR38 bulb's wattage does not exceed the receptacle's maximum wattage. In the case of an LED bulb replacing an incandescent household bulb, you'll most likely be replacing a higher-wattage bulb with a lower-wattage bulb, but you should check the specs to be sure. Now the bad news: PAR38 and ...


5

I searched far and wide to find a solution for this for my own remodel. The orange connectors used by most of the lighting manufacturers is a standard IDEAL product - you can order them online in large quantity or on auction sites in smaller ones. You can retrofit the HALO cans to be compatible, or even use the connectors (as I did) to connect to GU10 ...


5

You can trim the rails so they will fit in a tighter space. Look close there are usually indents in the metal to help with cutting and snapping the rail to a shorter length. This is part of a normal install.


5

Scenario #4 I would just remove all the old drywall and use new construction fixtures. It may seem like a lot of work but all these other problems go away. Plus my "drywall guy" would throw a hissy fit trying to finish a layer over another layer with a texture. The drywall won't lay flat like it should and finishing will cost you more money or it won't look ...


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