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36

Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place. The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail ...


20

No. It's all or nothing. Imagine a visually-impaired person (or someone in the dark) coming down your stairs and the rail ends. What's the assumption? That they've reached the bottom. That can end badly.


7

The height is generally from the front of the tread straight up to the top of the handrail. To get the brackets at the right height, you'll need to do some measuring and marking. Measure the bracket top to bottom (if its height isn't already stated in the literature). You can allow for the thickness of the handrail by resting it on the stairs and ...


6

It appears that the rim joist is pulling away from the joists to which it's nailed due to the outward forces on the railing. You could screw the rim joist to the joists (where those nails are now), which might give a bit more holding power, but you wouldn't gain a lot. Using lag bolts in this situation should be avoided because they won't hold well in the ...


6

Use the core drill you mentioned before, make sure it is deep enough, say 4" to get to the bottom of the iron stub. That is the standard mounting depth. To keep the drill in place, drill a hole in a piece of 3/4" plywood big enough (1'X4'??)to lay on the stair you need to drill with the hole in the place that the old post is located. Stand on this while you ...


5

The best way to deal with a low rail for toddlers is to add a second one. That way adults won't be surprised to find a rail at the low end of the range, and toddlers won't have to reach up. In theory you could remove the second rail when your children are taller. In my experience, parents of 8-year olds sometimes don't get around to removing inoffensive ...


5

After consultation with my master-carpenter-looking-over-my-shoulder, Dan, the following solution was arrived at: 1.The newel post - built up from 1x3 clear oak boards glued together. Two are full length, one is beveled (before gluing) to sit on top of angled knee wall. Attached by two lag bolts at base and one lag bolt into handrail. 2.Base - shoerail ...


4

I dont know how you would make curved channels. But anything short of installing pulleys in the posts I don't think the wires would be tight enough. With the codes 4" maximum opening the wires need to be extremely tight to prevent a child from spreading the wires apart. Plus the turnbuckle and screw eye contradicts the clean lines of the wire.


4

If you cannot find wooden porch rail parts long enough in your local home center, you can use stair rail parts. The handrail comes in lengths up to 16 feet, in oak or hemlock. You would also need shoerail. The center section of each comes out to leave a channel to hold the balusters. All of these are unfinished, but you may be able to find primed versions....


4

You'll have to cut the carpet to attach the railing properly. Go grab the latest newstand issue of Fine Homebuilding. They have a full article on it: (Not affiliated with the magazine in any-way other than I am a fan and find it to be the best construction magazine out there) Also, heads up that this will likely be caught on an inspection and/or appraisal....


4

Interior? Exterior? I'll assume exterior, since you're even considering pressure-treated wood. Cedar generally stands up to weathering considerably better than untreated pine does - hence the cedar siding & roofing all across the USA, but treated pine weathers reasonably well, too. It does like to split a little. Either will require careful priming with ...


4

Although it is a nuisance to remove all those banisters, it might be feasible to add a similar number of them. Install new banisters between the old ones, but extending upward 25% to 50% longer. Connect their tops with a railing similar to the existing one. In this picture, I haven't yet installed the new top railing, but you get the idea. The banister ...


4

A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to ...


4

Just a warning, unless you are pretty handy this should be done by a pro. If you have done large glue ups before, and have 2 people to help at glue up time and everything protected from dripping glue, you may have a chance. It starts with your wood selection, for a finished hand rail that will measure 1 1/4" to 1" thick by 2" wide you will need 8- 1/4" ...


4

You could screw up through the lower 2x4 into the top 2x4, such that the screw heads would be on the bottom of the lower board and not seen from the top. But I think there's a different question here: Why reinforce the existing board? When working on problems like this, I first try to determine the root cause of the problem. Did that 2x4 warp because a 2x4 ...


3

It looks neat. I think I'd be looking for a glass railing engineer (as in an engineer employed by a firm in the business of glass railings or engineered/architectural glass structures in general) to ensure that the glass, mounting and attachments were all adequate. And I like doing stuff myself. I'd just be uncomfortable with the possibilities for building ...


3

Forget angle brackets, they aren't designed for that direction of force. The images are mine and how I do it, and I'll tell you they are solid railings. Bolt your railing to the rim board and bolt the rim board to the joists with tension ties (or deck ties). If you can do it through the railing posts, it's better, but not necessary) You can't tell in the ...


3

No easy way. The half wall is going to be built like a wall, with studs and a top and bottom plate. You'll have to rip it out, and install a banister in its place.


3

The handrail is primarily a safety device, so make sure you don't sacrifice that goal to save a little bit of work now. Based on your description it doesn't sound like the spindles will really contribute much to the lateral (sideways) strength of the railing. So if you omit the intermediate posts you need to make sure the top rail is constructed with enough ...


3

We would have to talk to your building department to answer that question. For something like this there may be a serious safety issue. If a small child got hurt or someone got knocked over you would be liable if you didn't fix it and knew about it... It is customary in the US to get the replacement cost of something that isn't code built into the price ...


3

I have it! 4" cable pulleys (used in garage doors) You put them on the inside, (no post grooving) The 4" diameter means the spacing between strands will be perfect, the tensioning will be uniform, with no kinking. You just offset the opposite pulleys down by 4".


3

Assuming that the framing around the post socket is solid, this is what I'd do for a rock-solid result: Procure some items: Heavy-duty construction adhesive--the kind that comes in a caulking gun tube. Liquid Nails in blue/gold is what I have in mind. Wood shims. 6" are ok. 8" are better. A bubble level in the 2-4' range Utility knife with a fresh blade ...


3

Have you thought if it do you like the idea of adding a industrial looking pipe hand rail? (I think black would look great).You could do a 6” or so version of the kind of mounting seen in this bunk bed railing All these fittings are easily found. Be sure to use a pipe diameter that is code approved I think 1-1/4


3

If you were to replace all the lag bolts, you could play around with plumb by shimming the top or bottom of the post where it sits on the rim joist. Be sure to use galvanized bolts (and healthy sized washers on both ends) that go all the way through the post and the rim joist. A very big caveat: this might have met code where you are, but a 2x4 post -- ...


2

Just speculating, but one single cable provides a single point of failure. That fact alone probably excites lawyers enough to prevent such products from being widely produced, let alone marketed. Also, the friction at the posts will be quite high at the range of tension needed to stabilize the cable making it quite difficult to transmit the tension ...


2

Typical wood deck railings are 4x4 posts, 2x4 rails, 2x2 balusters and a 2x6 railing cap on top. Wood railing is chunky but it needs to be to prevent people falling through it in the event of a accident. It is not just leaning that is the concern but 1 or 2 200+ lb people failing into the weakest spot (middle of the rail) that it needs to handle. But when ...


2

Should be pretty simple. You just need a way to gently raise the railing up enough to get the block underneath. I would do this slowly over a number of days and raise it the absolute minimum amount. Once you get there, slide the block underneath, slowly remove the support, and you're done.


2

A post base. There are several styles, this is one.


2

The simplest way to insert the new spindle is to make sure the hole in the bottom of the handrail is deep enough that the new spindle can be inserted higher than its final position, high enough to allow the bottom stub of the spindle to clear the hole in the step and then be lowered into the hole. Once you have sized the spindle and tested it for fit, ...


2

The real answer is to replace the post. But if you need a quick fix, perhaps a couple of braces would work. I think that a wood post anchor might work too, if you can slip it over or under the post (maybe it's too late for that).


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