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5

Every time me and my colleagues enter this room if the meeting is over ~30 mins we leave with symptoms of fatigue, dizziness and a reduced mental ability, it takes about 1-3 hours to overcome these symptoms. This sounds very much like Carbon Monoxide(CO) poisoning. It saturates your blood, which slowly suffocates you by preventing your blood from carrying ...


4

Radon is serious business But at least there's some cool science around it. Ever wonder why volcanos exist? Why is the earth hot? Turns out it is radioactive decay. When God created the earth He "aged" it 5 billion years, which destroyed all radioactive substances except uranium, which has such a long half-life that some still exists. "Half-life" means ...


3

The radon pipe should be tightly sealed through the basement floor. If that gap you identified goes though the floor, then it should be sealed up because the system is supposed to vent radon from the soil. That opening would prevent that from happening and if you had a lot of rain, you could get water rising up through that gap. Wait until the basement ...


2

Since it's low-volume and outside I wouldn't worry about it, but Ed's right that there's some indication of blockage. There should be very little back-pressure on that pipe. However, I've never seen downspout used for radon systems. I'm not sure how you'd reliably seal that (and it may not be legal where mitigation is required by code). My guess is that it ...


2

Pipes are installed under your house and extend up through the roof. If radon will passively escape and lower your radon gas level, then you’re fine. If the radon gas level does not go down, then you’ll need to hook up a fan on one of the pipes running up through your house and “exhaust” them out from under your house.


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There are 2 types of Radon mitigation systems: 1) gravity, and 2) forced air. 1) Typically a gravity system will be installed, with an option to install an exhaust fan at a later date, if the gravity system is not effective. 2) After the gravity system runs for a year or so, additional readings will be taken to determine if the system is effective and ...


1

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that can cause lung cancer. You can't see or smell radon. Testing is the only way to know your level of exposure. See https://www.epa.gov/radon for more info. That said, it looks like you've tested for it by a certified Radon tester and discovered that it's above acceptable levels. You should mitigate it by ...


1

There are several issues: 1) effectiveness of slab vrs. framing/crawl space, 2) effort/cost, 3) storage use, 4) future considerations 1) Both systems are effective and are widely used for radon remediation. The key to both systems is sealing the soil area from the living area. 2) The even if the cost is not important, the effort to level the existing ...


1

Is your current setup like one pictured on this site? What do you mean by "best"? Building a subfloor will be more expensive, but you can probably use your current radon system. Pouring concrete will be a cheaper floor option, but it might not be compatible with your radon system, and refitting it would drive the cost up. The wood floor would be the ...


1

Just re the bubbles (too long for a comment): If those are air bubbles, I'd think they'd come out with tapping the tube. I had water bubbles in mine. I believe this was due to condensation, with the tube sitting against the cold pipe in a humid basement. If you have condensation around the base of the pipe, this might be your situation. To get the water ...


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You have to get rid of those bubbles, or your manometer will be completely inaccurate. A U-tube manometer works by balancing the weight and pressure on either side of the U. If there's no pressure difference, then the liquid will move until the weights are equal, which happens when the levels are the same (and, if you have the right amount of liquid, it will ...


1

Maybe you could splice in some sort of 45 degree sanitary tee at that curve right above the fan? That way, when the ice falls down the pipe, it gets caught. Maybe also some kind of filter there to restrict airflow but allow water to melt out on warm days.


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I'm sure that you've walled that in by now... Would the general location of that pipe be a good spot for a wood or pellet stove? My speculation is that pipe layout may be for a 'cold air intake' for a wood stove. When installed in mobile homes wood stoves must be fed by outside air because the mobile home is supposedly 'so tight' relative to air leaking in....


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