10

The typical way to pre-warm water is to install a standard tank water heater before the tankless, but leave it turned off. Using an automotive radiator is a terrible idea. You don't want to connect something not designed for potable water to your plumbing. That's just asking for trouble. The pex idea is interesting. The only reason that I can think that ...


8

You could add a smaller tank-less heater in front. Some of them are even rated to be plugged into an outlet so you won't have to do additional electrical work. In Europe I've seen it done with a bigger unit to supply the whole house and a smaller one at the shower for use during the winter. In either case you're going to get a lot further with this ...


7

Adding a fan to a radiator will not increase the overall efficiency of your heating system (at least the way efficiency is normally expressed: usable heat output per unit of fuel, or per dollar). Adding a fan will make the radiator deliver heat to the room more rapidly, but the boiler will then have to work harder to reheat the extra steam that was condensed ...


7

From what I've read and experienced with household radiators: Building a cover over a radiator, according to everything I can find about radiator efficiency, will absolutely decrease efficiency about 30%. This is true even if reflective material is added. Radiator shelves and enclosures were often meant for this purpose - to control an oversized radiator. ...


7

The official statement is that if you have no calor BT app that is currently paired, you are lost and should return the device to the dealer as broken. However, there is a way out - the following steps are written for a Linux environment but probably can be adapted to other OSes: Install a current (!) VirtualBox and VirtualBox Extension Pack for USB ...


7

PEX pipe does not corrode or otherwise interact with copper or other materials the way dissimilar metals do. It's essentially an inert substance under normal circumstances. The bulges and darkened areas, however, do appear to be signs of a problem and I agree with your assessment that these were caused by heat, probably from the torch used to sweat the ...


5

You are correct that having a hot radiator on what's effectively a cold space - the porch - is very inefficient and, presuming nobody's on the porch most of the time, wastes a lot of energy. And you are correct that the hot water going into that radiator is being cooled in the process. However, it is unlikely that the water is going to any other radiators, ...


4

There is a pretty new product in the UK market at least, which is a radiator fan unit. It does need a power source but it has a built in thermostat so it only turns on when the radiator gets hot. Seems to be quite effective, we have one and it made a real difference to our living room. Not sure if they are in any stores or anything yet but we just got ours ...


4

We ended up bleeding the radiators, upping the pressure, and replacing the thermocouple. After all of that, we discovered that flames had been shooting out of the front of the boiler and melted half of the valve, messing up the electronics for the pilot light. We ended up replacing the entire boiler since it was 35 years old anyway, but the reason for the ...


4

Do NOT use an automotive radiator - it's not meant for nor suitable for potable water use. If you have a "relatively warm basement" you can either use a plain, uninsulated pressure tank (a "tempering" tank in this application - cold in the bottom, warmed out the top) or run a long run of large-ish diameter PEX (to minimize pressure drop) around the basement ...


4

Well, first off, you're wrong about the heat source. See the gray insulated pipes? Those are carrying hot fluid from (and cooler fluid back to) a source that costs a LOT less than electric resistance heat. That flows through a coil, and a fan blows air through the coil. You have a fan-coil unit. Or, possibly, those only carry chilled water for cooling in ...


3

This is the sound of metal pipes and radiator components expanding and contracting. As they do so, they rub against other fixed parts, like wood framing, brackets, etc. If they stick slightly, you'll hear a popping or clicking sound as they stick and unstick from the friction against this expansion and contraction. So the solution is to locate any points ...


3

Low water Air lock or circulator not working is most common problems. What is the pressure of system ? Should be around 12 cold 20 hot. Add water to system if lower. You may have automatic feeder. Check for any air bleeder that can be open.


3

This type of radiator should be warm to the touch, not hot like an cast iron radiator. If you touch the fins with two or three fingers it should feel hot enough to be very uncomfortable. Lastly, go to incoming pipe coming up through the floor again, it should be very hot, too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. Usually the water moving through the ...


3

In the technical guides for the Giacomini valves, it appears that some of the heads can be removed by unscrewing it past the the open position. Have you tried that? This is assuming that the top part on your model spins. For other models, it appears the whole head pulls off the valve. An example is shown in this guide: http://www.giacomini.com/export/sites/...


3

Don't change them. Single line steam radiators are tricky at the best of times, and most modern plumbers have little experience with them. In addition base board radiators make it impossible to put bookcases in. (In our climate they use up all of the external wall.) There are lots of ways to dress them up Recessing them is a bad idea, as the space to ...


3

You could try using a portable fan to blow air across the radiator so that the room becomes more evenly heated. The moving air will actually extract more heat from the radiator than still air would, so you may find that this makes the room noticeably warmer.


3

Do you know for sure that this is a hot water system? Sometimes steam can sound like running water. If it is hot water, there is a giant air bubble in the radiator preventing it from filling. It needs to be bled off by opening the small valve near the top at one end. You will typically need some sort of tool or key for this. Slowly open the valve. Along with ...


3

Other than looking for hidden bleeders (i.e. I have one where the baseboard cover needs to be removed to reveal the bleeder) and bleeding any bleeders that you can find, you may need to swear at whoever put in the new radiators and retrofit bleeders where they are missing. There is often an automatic bleeder/vent on or just after (in which case it's often ...


3

Why is knob and tube top priority to replace? It's quite safe if left alone. You only need to replace it in visible areas: the stuff behind the wall doesn't need replacing. You might want to add some circuits in certain rooms, but you don't have to remove the old ones. No upgrading the radiators (from your description they don't sound like baseboard ...


3

The item on the left is the steam trap and can not be regulated or shut off. stay away from this item. The shut-off valve is the item with the screw on the top. Turn the nut ccw (counter clockwise), just slightly about a 1/4 turn, then put a wrench on the stem above the nut, I would use a 6" or 8" pipe wrench or vise grips, and try to turn cw (clockwise) ...


3

Possible manufacturer could be: https://www.emerson.com/en-us/catalog/therm-o-disc-10h Product bulletin describes how the thermostat works: The 10H capillary tube is vacuum-charged with selected fluids to give specific calibrations. When the calibration temperature is reached, a change in fluid vapor pressure allows the diaphragm to snap through and ...


3

These are dual-fuel radiators. Meaning they actually can use heat from two different sources, which is why the numbers aren't adding up the way you expect. In their standard mode of operation, they work just like a traditional radiator on a hot water heating system -- water is heated in a central boiler, then pumped through radiators throughout the building....


2

The best thing you could do is build a radiator cover (see the following This Old House article How To Build A Radiator Cover). The key component to the cover is the reflective material used behind the radiator which reflects the heat back into the room as opposed to being absorbed by the wall as waste. You could, of course, just fabricate a simple backing ...


2

When you do your daily bleed of this radiator if you don't actually get air coming out, just water. You don't have an air problem, you have a water flow problem. If your system a diverter-tee system (a "one-pipe" system), check to make sure that the tees that feed this radiator are installed the same way as the tees that feed your working radiators. The ...


2

The temperature probe is internal to the dial mechanism. Due to longer lag times of steam systems vs forced air systems, many steam thermostats have an anticipator setting which compensates by shutting the system off "in anticipation" of its reaching the correct temperature soon. Research your thermostat brand online for this possibility. Your real ...


2

You have probably solved this by now. However, for those that haven't here is how to remove the push on Giacomini thermostat. In the photo you've posted, above, you can see a plastic collar where that thermostat attaches to the valve. This is a locking collar. You can actually see the locking jaws above the collar. Lift this collar and the whole thermostat ...


2

The particular model in the diagram should have the orifice hand tight. If the orifice is left loose it can vibrate loose and fall off. There are other models and other brands that are adjustable. By turning the cap you expose more or less of the orifice. The larger the orifice the faster the air is expelled. This allows the steam to enter the radiator at a ...


2

That would depend on how smart your boiler controls are. If they shut down on low pressure, there's no real reason to leave the valve open. If not, you have flooding on one hand, burning out the boiler on the other...neither is good. Smart boiler controls and a closed valve would appear to be the best available option.


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